So I need to sort out the cage on the truck....need some ideas on how to do it

pic of the hoop inside this obviously goes onto the chassis legs



Now for the front I have either the "proper" hoop I took of the truck for its enforced rebuild, with 6mm plated all round front outriggers

or

The Safety devices bolt together external cage with the angle iron bit that bolts into the bulkhead, with all the rear hoops etc

but I also want wingbars to tie into the front winch bumper





the rear cage mount are no use as the anglw is far to steep with the 88 inch wheelbase and the tank/spare etc, so I was going to bolt the 8274 rear mount onto this ?



The rear cross member is a RSJ so its strong enough......

so if I take a hoop/hoops over the king cab, take the rear stay over the back of the rear tub,

down the back and onto the back of the rear cross member.....

yes it will have a bend in.........

link the two together over the rear tailgate.....bring a tie/tree slider abong the side of the tub to the rear stay

then, somehow fit the outside hoop to the inside hoop , with a welded bracket bolted through the body, to stop it pushing in and a triangular plate underneath to stop any shear force, the same on the roof section




somewhat like this......



but the rear goes right over the back.....

blimey wish I could photoshop

would it be ok......

open to suggestion....drawings.....photoshopped....etc...etc.....

or just someone to do the flammin thing.....for beer tokens...but I still need the design....

or just trayback it, fit a normal roof and truckcab and forget it

It's probably worth searching for some pics of RobHybrid's cage, it's similar to that above, IIRC it went over the back too. Fag-packet vapour truck feeling says that steep straight stays would still be stronger than bent stays though, it depends how fast you expect to be going when your a*se starts gripping the cushion...

This one belongs to Gwyn Lewis but I think illustrates the principle you are thinking of for the rear anyway.

That is Rob's truck and the roll cage has been tested more than once.

hi, a mate at the donnington 4x4 show got a load of quotes for a king cab cage and P & P were the best, il try get a pick of them once they have had there's made and fitted but fron what i heard it was the same as a truck cab, going to the rear xmember on the side of the rear tub rather than the floor of it and it had a cross in the roof rather than just stays as it was slightly longer being a king cab so they thought this would be alot stronger.

james

Les, welcome to the world of pain I've had to try and think about all these problems as well. First of all, I knew I couldn't put braces in the rear tub - there simply isn't space in a king cabed 90 let alone an 88. Its not ideal but you can get around it.

To give you some ideas, here's what I'm doing. I'm using box section from the outriggers (which'll be reinforced) and butted up to the bulkhead (to which the box'll be seam welded). The windscreen hoop will then bolt to this. For asthetics I'm going to be using a double hoop with the back one braced through the cab. the rear stays will run on the outside of the tub and then down to the rear x member. These will also be triangulated to stop side hits bending the cage and to give a second joint that'd have to bend to flaten the cage. The use of box at the front also helps with this as the front hoop will now start at wing height rather than chassis height. Here's a quick sketch (wing bar designs have changed slightly and the internal sections of the rear stay go both vertically to the corner of a custom rear x member and triangulate to the ends of the chassis rails - this isn't clear in the sketch)



As you've got a nice SD cage I'd probably use the front hoop replacing the hopeless bits of angle with box (simerlar to me). Use all the external sections of SD cage with the rear hoop tied into your internal one. The only mod I would make would be to bring both central hoops forward an inch or so meaning they sit centrally over the spacer pannel - no practical reason for this only looks. At the rear I think something like mine or Rob's will work reasonably well. It will also help protect the rear tub which I know will appeal to you

P.S. I'm going to be around for about 5 weeks so give me a shout when you want to come and get the rest of the tubing.