Maplin (Velleman) intermittent wiper kit. Probably being dim again but just looking at the instructions (interesting Dutch translation?) looks to be making things more complicated than need be. The kit uses two relays but as far as I can see you only need one. If power is temporarily cut from the red and green wire (as you do when dabbing down for a single wipe) it should cut the motor short and start the wipers? Am I oversimplifying?

Rear wiper. I have some Ford (Orange) wiper relays (long story). Only four pins. Again, I assume they're wired into the parking wire and energise to open the circuit and move wiper from parked position (which is wherever it feels like on my 110). Anybody fitted one of these?

All answers gratefully received.
Rich

I fitted one on my Lightweight (in about 1994) - and it was brilliant! I assume it's the same one - programmable by the delay between manual wipes?

Since it's supplied as a kit, does it matter whether it needs one or two relays? They are supplied anyway - you might as well use it!

These are another way

front & rear wiper intermittent

rear

front -using genuine LR parts

Yup. It's the "Screen Wiper Robot K2599" (Robot?!). Actually it's duff. Did a trial fit some time ago and didn't box or pot it. Something metallic rattling about in the dash touched the contacts and let the blue smoke out. I was planning to nip to Maplins tomorrow and get another and was just studying the instructions, something I NEVER normally do! I just thought that braking into one wire was better than several as there's less to solder up again if I remove it.

Rich

When I fitted mine I did it with piggy back spade crimps, so that one side of the crimp fed the wiper motor, the other side had the conventional (stalk) control and the PCB feeds on. Easy to insulate, remove etc.

Glue

I think this kit was designed for older vehicles without a single wipe dabber!

It is intended to provide three different delays where there were none at all. I've just built one for my Series III but although it appears to work on a trial with flying leads the darn thing is so big when it comes to mounting it out of sight.

The 2 relays stand higher than the threaded part of the rotary switch so you can't use that to mount it through a panel. I mounted the board in the smallest box Maplins had, so that I could fix into the front of the box. But now it's too big to hide behind the facia.

All ideas welcome.

Geoff

Wiper wiring is more complicated than most people realise - the switch needs change over contacts to brake the motor at the end of the wipe - its not just done by the park switch. Add 2 speeds and intermittent and it all gets very complicated. Have a look at the wiring for a wiper cct in any Haynes manual.

Series vehicles can have 2 speed wipers and intermittent but cos the switch is only a simple on/off it requires 2 relays. One to do the change over bit and motor brake the other to do the intermittent function. On top of that the intermittent relay needs to be switched out of the wiper wiring when they are running non stop. A 90/110/Defender does all this on the stalk switch. It can be done in a series using the original switch ( I have) but its not for the novice!!!

So, basically, you're saying I am being dim Thought it'd be too easy. I'll have another crack at the Maplin option, if only out of bloody mindedness.

Cheers
Rich

My problem is not in building it, nor in getting it to work. I've managed that, but in finding a space to put it. IF Velleman had designed it so that the usual threaded bush on the switch could be used, all would be well, but because the switch sits below the relays it needs a box or at least a panel of its own to mount on/in. That panel can then go in the dash, but now the unit has grown too big for any space I have yet found.

Geoff
(desperately seeking a smaller box!)

Wiring diagrams

Ah! You beat me to it. I went for a potter around the net to enlighten my ignorance and found this:

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wiper3.htm

Even the wire colors look familiar.

Thanks for the help.

Rich

That was the standard BMC/BLMC.Austin-Rover &c&c colour code of the time

The deed is done! Armed with a built unit, wiring diagrams, wire, coffee and 20 cigs I've managed to get it to work. Wired as per instructions. No shortcuts. Then (and only then) I thought about mounting it. Not easy is it? As you say the relays prevent the thread on the switch from being used.
In the end I located it low down in the tray on the left between the instrument pod (below the fan switch) and the central wiring cover (this is on a 110). I 'potted' the back by filling the little plastic cover that's in the kit with silicone and just plonked the unit in. Then I drilled a hole in the fascia to push the switch shaft through. The whole thing is held in place by the knob on the shaft. It doesn't sound very convincing but it's quite solid, look neat and the wires don't show (I made the connections at the switch end so they just go into the pod).

Rich

PS. As I want to try it in the rain I can now confidently predict a drought to beat '76.

Hi Geoff, I haven't seen the unit but presume its all mounted on a PCB. Why not unsolder the Potentiometer from the board, mount it appropriately on the inside of the box with araldite or somesuch with the handle protruding thru a hole. Solder wire between it and the original PCB holes to make the connections. I guess ther'd only be 3 wires max if it was a normal POT?

Cheers,

Lee

I'd have thought so too. I did consider this but there are FIFTEEN pins on the pot! Gawd knows what they all do. Actually six of them do nothing but help hold the pot to the board but I found all that out to late.

My Un-soldering skills are not that great. If I had gone down this route I would rather have bought another kit and started again. Having the pot/knob remote from the board has much to recommend it as far as fitting in the limited space is concerned.

However I have now found a smaller box, mounted the board on legs inside, and fixed through the dash panel into the box.

This was at the third attempt. I have now paid Maplins twice the cost of the unit in postage. Still it now fits in the dash and I too am waiting for it to rain!

Geoff

My pedantic young friend has just pointed out that this is not a potentiometer, but a twelve pole rotary switch, the other three pins being the mounting points. This helped no end with the un-soldering, finding a small box, wishing I'd never started problems!

Geoff

Sorry, of hear of your woes Geoff I assumed it would just be a normal 3 pole POT which i've seen on other timed delay circuits, 12 pole rotary switch would seem a bit excessive for a small project.



Cheers,

Lee

Hi Guys,

Newbie here, first LR - late Series 3.

I have been following this string and the others on intermittent wipers and have realised that fitting the 6 pin AMR2341 is a non-starter unless someone can show me how to wire in the extra White/Green lead into the existing Lucas switch (5 pin).

Anywho - I have had a furgle round t'internet and found this - combined 5 pin relay and variable intermittent knob all in one from Hella.



The document link below provides the Hella part no and the OE part nos.

Hella Part No

I haven't found one to fit yet, has anyone tried it?

Chris

As an ex Electronics Lab Technician I built my own circuit for my LR.
It has 1 Chip 777 timer, 1 Relay 1 on off switch and 1 Potentiometer to change the delay.
All it does is starts the motor to drive it off the home position and the homing circuit does the rest.
It has beem working for 20 years without fail!

No you are not being dim.
Marc.

THink you meant to say a 555 timer chip - not a 777

A 777 is 222 better though

you could have a simple digital one using a button, where the number of times pressed corresponds to the speed. press once for slow, press again for normal, press a third time for double speed.

when I get out of revising comms in this damn library (memorising algebraic proofs as to why the bandwidth of narrowband FM is approx 2 x Fs anyone!?) I'll rustle something up at home and post the schematic.

Corrected though it was not available as a single timer chip the replacement has 2 timers so it was a 556.
All I could remeber was lots of the same number.
Cheers,
Marc.