Hi
I bought an LC-1 to go with MS I want to install in my Dakar.
Before doing the MS I wanted to see how the carbed engine in my Ultima was performing so installed the LC-1 there first.
After many failed attempts I managed to get it working but am far from confident with what it was saying. If I do a full free air cal, then start the car, then the switch on the LC-1 I could get it to work but if I stopped it and restarted it would just lock up.
I tried this many times but now it won't even boot up to do a cal. The led does not light and the display just flashes on and off a reading of 7.4. The sensor does not heat and a laptop thinks the LC-1 is not switched on.
Any ideas before I kick the whole pile of sh1t over next doors fence?
Can you tell I'm not happy?
Thanks in advance
Steve
Full Version: Wideband sensor problems
I had this something similar when i did mine, found i'd wired it up wrong (confusion on my part due to re-using part of the hotwire loom and stupidly getting the wire colours mixed up). Am surprised i didn't blow anything, the 0-5volt outputs are meant to be quite sensitive and don't like being shorted, etc.
Have you tried powering it up without the sensor connected then off then reconnect?
When you say "then start the car, then the switch on the LC-1" do you mean the LC-1 is not powered but the engine is running? May be wrong but i think this doesn't do the sensor much good long term. I wired my LC-1 so it's powered from the output of the ignition main relay so the sensor is warming up before the engine starts.
Have you tried powering it up without the sensor connected then off then reconnect?
When you say "then start the car, then the switch on the LC-1" do you mean the LC-1 is not powered but the engine is running? May be wrong but i think this doesn't do the sensor much good long term. I wired my LC-1 so it's powered from the output of the ignition main relay so the sensor is warming up before the engine starts.
If installed correctly they give years of good service and are as accurate as you can get without spending 10 times the money.
In certain cases they can be tempramental if they are not grounded properly.
Couple of options.
1. I talk you through the hard calibration procedure what to look for on logworks and the grounding practice
2. You send it to me and I will reflash and recalibrate it and if it is broken replace it.
Rgds
Bill
In certain cases they can be tempramental if they are not grounded properly.
Couple of options.
1. I talk you through the hard calibration procedure what to look for on logworks and the grounding practice
2. You send it to me and I will reflash and recalibrate it and if it is broken replace it.
Rgds
Bill
Bill
Is there a way to do this ’hard calibration’ when it won’t even talk to the computer?
I have heard a lot about the grounding issues and confess it baffles me how putting all the earths on one terminal is wrong but putting them in say a terminal block works. I have all mine in a terminal block.
Steve
ETA Should also say I took to switching it on after starting the engine as the engine is a 6.7litre small block Chevy but the car only has a small motor bike type gel battery so the volts drop quite low during cranking and I heard that the LC-1 does not like low volts so thought that may be why it was locking up after starting.
Is there a way to do this ’hard calibration’ when it won’t even talk to the computer?
I have heard a lot about the grounding issues and confess it baffles me how putting all the earths on one terminal is wrong but putting them in say a terminal block works. I have all mine in a terminal block.
Steve
ETA Should also say I took to switching it on after starting the engine as the engine is a 6.7litre small block Chevy but the car only has a small motor bike type gel battery so the volts drop quite low during cranking and I heard that the LC-1 does not like low volts so thought that may be why it was locking up after starting.
If it wont talk to the computer then chances are there is something up with the LC1. If this is the case and assuming you got it from Phil Ringwood I can replace it under warranty.
Other way to hard cal is to unplug sensor and power LC-1 for 8 seconds. On next power up the unit will do a complete calibration.
Other way to hard cal is to unplug sensor and power LC-1 for 8 seconds. On next power up the unit will do a complete calibration.
QUOTE (Bill Shurvinton @ Apr 2 2008, 09:38 PM) 
If it wont talk to the computer then chances are there is something up with the LC1. If this is the case and assuming you got it from Phil Ringwood I can replace it under warranty.
Other way to hard cal is to unplug sensor and power LC-1 for 8 seconds. On next power up the unit will do a complete calibration.
Other way to hard cal is to unplug sensor and power LC-1 for 8 seconds. On next power up the unit will do a complete calibration.
Bill
Have tried power without sensor but the led does not flash as it used to when doing a free air cal so I guess it is shot.
I bought it from DIYAutotune in the States so there's no merit in trying to get them to replace it.
If you believe it is the best wideband to have then what is your best price for a new one.
Steve
Well I could say 'serves you right' for not getting one from UK, but I happen to know Jerry well and am sure I can get warranty honoured.
Bill
Good man.
What do I do now? Should I PM you for an address as I assume I need to send it all off to you?
Do they do a 'hero worship' smiley?
Steve
Good man.
What do I do now? Should I PM you for an address as I assume I need to send it all off to you?
Do they do a 'hero worship' smiley?
Steve
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