I'm putting EDIS 8 on my 4.2. I have a sensor bracket and a trigger wheel. However the sensor sitting where it does on the bottom right of the timing cover I can only put the missing tooth 40 or 60 degrees in front of the sensor. The ideal 50 degrees isn't possible.

So the question is should I live with 40 or 60 ( I think I am going with 40 at the moment so EDIS will limp home fire at TDC not great but not engine destroying either ) or should I seriously redo the sensor bracket to get that magic 50.

I know I should be able to compensate for the 10 degrees with megasquirt.

You could move the sensor up or down a bit, should be able to get 10 degrees (1 tooth & gap) movement easily.

But as you say, it's not super critical, mine is actually about 8 degrees I think, you just change the offset in MegaTune.

Er........ why the hell cant you get them perfect??? I did!

I made my trigger wheel with curved slots to allow for infinate adjustment to allow me to get it right. Has yours only got round holes in it or something???

I just slackened the bolts and tweeked it round a tad until it was perfect.
Jon

The lasered ones only have round holes I believe, even then the combination of +/-60deg per bolt hole and movement up/down on the VR sensor should get you close enough. Flipping the trigger wheel face-to-face may move the gap around to a better place.

Ahhhhhhhh curved slots would bea far better solution IMHO as it allows infinate adjustment.

Jon

I have one of these brackets. It's a very lovely bit of metal so I don't want to change it if I don't have to. It mounts the sensor slightly in the dip between the two bolts on the timing cover so I'm quite limited on adjustment. To get the 1 mm sensor - trigger wheel clearance I have virtually no wriggle room at all.

and this is my trigger wheel ( alla trigger-wheels.com )



again very nice piece of metal. ( if only the missing tooth was a little more to the left :-p )

Yeah - I made my trigger wheel with slots rather than holes thus allowing some adjustments. IMHO thats a poor design from the trigger wheels lot.

Jon

I made my trigger wheel with no holes or slots. Mounted it on the pulley turned till it was where I needed it, removed it and pulley drilled through and bolted it up. Made a MINOR adjustment on the mounting for the VR and then timed it in as like Jon W to 10 degrees spot on, dogged everything up tight with loctite just to be sure.

Not tricky, saves much faffing about - worth doing right IMHO

Nige

That's a bit harsh. The wheel has cunning that may not be apparent at first glance - the 12 holes gives you a coarse location of every 30 degrees. The holes are offset so flipping the wheel gives you another 12 locations to give you a total coarse adjustment of every 15 degrees. The sensor bracket allows for some fine tuning which should allow you to get it prety much spot on. If you can't get it close or don't want to fine tune then you just correct the numbers in the ECU anyway so as long it you have it somewhere in the ballpark you'll be fine.

Irrespective of that the very latest RV8 wheel from www.trigger-wheels.com has offset slots to give even more adjustment in each wheel orientation.

You may ask why they weren't slotted in the first place, well the reason is threefold. Firstly the bigger the holes the more laser time it requires to cut it and so increases the cost. Secondly the intention was to keep things as simple as possible for the installer, since taking pulleys off can be a chore dropping it on at the closest increment and fine tuning with the bracket and the ECU seemed the "easiest" way to us. As it has turned out people would rather twiddle at the pulley than do it in software - you live and learn. Finally it wasn't clear at the outset how to get sufficient slottage without introducing any weak points and with you guys abusing your cars the way you do we wanted it tough. Given time to ponder we think we've come up with a really robust and flexible slotted design.

Chris

Dont take it to heart Chris, the two wheels I have had off you have been fine and I will be buying more, see the above as R+D that you just cant buy!

The first wheel I bought off you was a blank and I had to bore and drill it to suit, in a very similar way to Nige, i.e. got it somewhere near, clamped it onto the pulley and drilled through - then did it again when I realised I was 180° out!!!! Doh.

The second wheel I bought was pre drilled and bored, took a little fettling to get it to seat properly and a file or two for some of the bolt holes to pass through, but nothing ott and only 5 mins with a file.

The second wheel was only a problem because of the engine type it went on, it went on an "interim" engine - serp front with dizzy, even with no spacers fitted, the back flange of the pulley was rubbing on a "cast blank" on the face of the front cover, I had to machine the radius lip off the pulley to gain enough clearance, fortunately, it was a rare pulley with no balancing piece welded in!

I bought the trigger wheel with no holes, fitted - marked - drilled.
Much easier IMHO and no chance of slippage in the case of slots.