I decided to have a go at making my own crossmember after thinking it's going to be a bit stupid cutting off part of the new chassis rails in order to accomodate the reinforced item I already have. Luckily I already have a strip of 62-inch x 7-inch x 5mm steel, so nothing to lose says I, and church on sundays is getting a bit boring A few things I had in my head (apart from vapour). It doesn't need to be as deep as they tend to be. It doesn't need to be as wide as they tend to be. They don't need to be as thin as they tend to be. Also I don't need the PTO hole (well, not there anyway). I want the exhaust to exit out the rear crossmember, but it would be a nice straight run if the hole was close the the nearside chassis rail.
The PTO hole is round, but I'm clean out of round holes, but happen to have some square holes, so the hole is now square to accomodate the 5-inch sq x 4mm thick square hole I have in stock I think it would also look a bit arty if there was a square hole with something round sticking through it. Sort-of Picasso-ish if you know what I mean.
Also - tub mounting tabs are sooooooo yesterday - those piles of weld ruin the subtle contours of the rear face of the crossmember and it would be reely kewel if it was a dead flat surface for some plonker in a corsa to whack into. So forsaking the Lord on this one occasion, I set about the 5mm steel sheet with my junior hacksaw, 'Big Boy' file kit, and a re-chargeable drill from B&Q.
Some piccys for those of you that have taken the bread and wine today and are therefore incapable of standing up
The 4 x holes at bottom, centre are for a NATO hook by the way.

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Les

Looking good Les, but I have to ask, what did you do for the rest of the day...?

I messed-up the measuring 3-times Bish. I had to coat the entire face of it with masking tape in order not to get confused with lines I had previously made with a scriber


Les.

what about jacking points?

I have a hi-lift and hopefully the crossmember will be strong enough for it to be used underneath. Anyway - I'll never get stuck!


Les.

When I cut thick stuff (before Nige pipes up, 5mm is thick for me ) I clamp a piece of angle in position to act as a guide. Works a treat and you end up with really straight edges.

See - I can build wobbly bridges too, 'cos that how I did it. Straight strip of steel to guide the blade, then cut right through.
We should go out for a candle-light supper sometime Bish


Les.

Les, sounds like a must for the CAD forum


Paul

thats a serious amount of cutting for a hacksaw, junior or not!!!!
well done, some one needs to buy this man a grinder!!!!!

Looking good so far

Rainy day means I can play (in the inventing shed )











Les

But the shed was nice and warm after laying down those nice long welds

Looks nice

Les,
Won't you struggle welding to the chassis leg on the join nearest the square hole? Nice job, isn't it always satisfying to create a structure from just a flat piece of metal?

My brother has done this a few times. Use 4mm plate and have it folded into a C shape/cropped to size, to give the right height and depth. Cut the bottom edges at the outside to form the tapers, fold up and weld. Weld to LR, box in center section at back including anti crush tubes for tow/nato hitch. Add little tabs for rear tub.

Job done and less hacksaw/cutting work.

Adrian

The finished crossmember will slot onto the chassis rails. When the rear face is on - there will be two rectangular holes the same shape as the chassis ends. The 'PTO hole' will be 1-inch inside the chassis rail.


Les.

how much do you reckon you can make these for then les?

It rained again

Rear face -



Bottom -



Top -



Back -



Front - smooth as a babys botty




Les

Looking very good, I particularly like the fact that the rear face is all one piece incorporating the tub mounting tabs.
What reinforcing or anti crush tubes are you going to fit?

Rod

Forgot to take a picture, but there are two 5mm thick strips either side of the NATO hook mounting holes on the inside of the crossmember (like a noughts and crosses grid). It's highly unlikely that anything will bend.


Les.

Very nice. Now, why can't we buy chassis parts that nicely made?

Is there a new market for you here Les ?

Looks bloomin brilliant.

Neil

yes it is very cool having seen it

wow........outstanding work there

Either Catflap's LHD or that hole's not on the nearside like wot you said you wanted earlier...

Seriously tho, properly good bit of fab work, very impressed!

Thanks John - I reckoned someone would spot the mistake in the end . I lay the face on the bench and welded the top strip on - 2 x 62" welds before noticing my mistake. I'd rather make a bendy exhaust than have to make another rear face or cut the strip back off again.


Les.

hi Les, im a time served sheet metal worker think your crossmember is great puts Landrover to shame once again beltin

cheers Molly

Another fine creation from the 'Inventing Shed of Henson' really nice job Les

Nice it certainly is………………. but,


Was it gas welded or did you use your nice new MIG ……………… if you didn’t use your nice new MIG are you just going to keep the MIG as an ornament in the living room whilst you struggle on with an archaic technology?


Are you going to weld this one on 10mm pi$$ed like the last one ?


Well done Les ….nice job





Ian

It's MIG welded Ian - it would take ages to gas weld metal that thick. Sadly I only use my gas gear if I need to bend as I weld.
It was 15mm anyway


Les

Oooerrr.... Or does this prove you stand to attention when you weld..... Better make sure that ramp is working when you come over to sort my rear crossmember.. Can get the car to the right height for you then....




Neil

I thought is was Mig because the heat pattern is more localised, but I was surprised at how little splatter you have, I guess the metal was really clean and you are using a heavy Ar Co2 mix.................

Yeah ............. this time, measure ten times and weld once


BTW:I have ordered a new welding toy ................... a post will follow in about a month.................




Ian

I ain't Britpart y'know

New welding toy? If you start to show off I'll mess with your signature Ian


Les

The new toy will require a 50A breaker on single phase





Ian

So when my lights dim somewhat I know you are welding then Ian??!!