Today I made a simple fitting to hold a tablet pc on a bracket just in front of the stereo on my 90.
It is a simple plate bent at 90 deg twice at the bottom, to form a backplate with a channel which the tablet rests in. I got a small bit of chequerplate, cut it to size, and bent it by gripping it between two hardwood blocks in a workmate and bashing it with a hammer. That chequerplate is pretty tough stuff.
The chequerplate looks like it has been in combat and the folds are not accurate. 3/10 at best.
To do a better job:
1. Should I use a different technique ?
2. Should I use something other than chequerplate ?
3. If I got a £60 folder from machinemart, or similar, would I easily get better looking results, and can these folders make a 26mm wide channel ?
As a complete novice to sheet metal work, I enjoyed the task, but the results need to be better.
All advice gratefully received.
Richard
Full Version: Sheet Metal Working
QUOTE (RichardAllen @ May 18 2008, 09:49 PM) 
Today I made a simple fitting to hold a tablet pc on a bracket just in front of the stereo on my 90.
It is a simple plate bent at 90 deg twice at the bottom, to form a backplate with a channel which the tablet rests in. I got a small bit of chequerplate, cut it to size, and bent it by gripping it between two hardwood blocks in a workmate and bashing it with a hammer. That chequerplate is pretty tough stuff.
The chequerplate looks like it has been in combat and the folds are not accurate. 3/10 at best.
To do a better job:
1. Should I use a different technique ?
2. Should I use something other than chequerplate ?
3. If I got a £60 folder from machinemart, or similar, would I easily get better looking results, and can these folders make a 26mm wide channel ?
As a complete novice to sheet metal work, I enjoyed the task, but the results need to be better.
All advice gratefully received.
Richard
It is a simple plate bent at 90 deg twice at the bottom, to form a backplate with a channel which the tablet rests in. I got a small bit of chequerplate, cut it to size, and bent it by gripping it between two hardwood blocks in a workmate and bashing it with a hammer. That chequerplate is pretty tough stuff.
The chequerplate looks like it has been in combat and the folds are not accurate. 3/10 at best.
To do a better job:
1. Should I use a different technique ?
2. Should I use something other than chequerplate ?
3. If I got a £60 folder from machinemart, or similar, would I easily get better looking results, and can these folders make a 26mm wide channel ?
As a complete novice to sheet metal work, I enjoyed the task, but the results need to be better.
All advice gratefully received.
Richard
No 2 is a big part of it, CP is a pig to work with MUCH tougher than std ali
No 3 also would help, but limited in what it will bend up
Nige
You should have annealed the checquer plate aluminum first, this makes a lot of difference!
What is annealing? Simple, just heat the metal, taking care not to melt it down, with a gas torch (but the kitchen stove would do very well...) and just let it cool down slowly, in the air.
Keep in mind that subsequent working will harden the metal back, so you might need to repeat the procedure.
With this procedure I easily made a neat 90° bend on a checquer plate 3mm thick.
What is annealing? Simple, just heat the metal, taking care not to melt it down, with a gas torch (but the kitchen stove would do very well...) and just let it cool down slowly, in the air.
Keep in mind that subsequent working will harden the metal back, so you might need to repeat the procedure.
With this procedure I easily made a neat 90° bend on a checquer plate 3mm thick.
I've got one of the MachineMart sheet steel benders. They are fine for thin stuff, but are very limited if you want to try bending thicker steel (above 1.5mm) The bender bends as well and the job looks rubbish. The throat is about 60cm.
One of these things -
Click to view attachment
Les.
One of these things -
Click to view attachment
Les.
I am amazed those cheap folders are any good, I have a homebuilt 3 foot folder and the clamping leaf is 8"x7/6" steel. Even with that clamp I have to increase the radius on stuff thicker than 16swg to keep the bend straight.
Bending treadplate is one of those jobs where its better to take it to somewhere with a proper folder and hand over a small amount of cash during luch break...
Mike
Mike
Making a sheet bender is not a terribly difficult job, theyre pretty simple things.
infact, i think i might make one tonight
what will i need?
angle iron..some bar...welder... hammer..SORTED!
infact, i think i might make one tonight
what will i need?
angle iron..some bar...welder... hammer..SORTED!
it depends on what youre bending, aluminium is one thing steel is another... Steel is easy if youre not bending a thick gauge sheet. Aluminium mat be tricky depending on what alloy you're using, generally the alu sheets you buy are already annealed, if bending thicker gauge sheet, before doing the bend sand off the edges to a round smooth surface , put masking tape along the bend line and then bend it slowly... if the edges are left sharp you might end up with a crack along the bend.
I think this procedure is for steel... as far as I know alu is annealed by heating the alloy to a temperature depending on the type of alloy for a period of time in an oven, (roughly 300deg) then quenching in water... at this time the alu is annealed and can be worked, it will harden again in a matter of minutes (30min approx) so you have to be quick!
QUOTE
You should have annealed the checquer plate aluminum first, this makes a lot of difference!
What is annealing? Simple, just heat the metal, taking care not to melt it down, with a gas torch (but the kitchen stove would do very well...) and just let it cool down slowly, in the air.
Keep in mind that subsequent working will harden the metal back, so you might need to repeat the procedure.
With this procedure I easily made a neat 90° bend on a checquer plate 3mm thick
What is annealing? Simple, just heat the metal, taking care not to melt it down, with a gas torch (but the kitchen stove would do very well...) and just let it cool down slowly, in the air.
Keep in mind that subsequent working will harden the metal back, so you might need to repeat the procedure.
With this procedure I easily made a neat 90° bend on a checquer plate 3mm thick
I think this procedure is for steel... as far as I know alu is annealed by heating the alloy to a temperature depending on the type of alloy for a period of time in an oven, (roughly 300deg) then quenching in water... at this time the alu is annealed and can be worked, it will harden again in a matter of minutes (30min approx) so you have to be quick!
Chris, if you quench the panel in water when hot, you'll be at the starting point; even repeated working and beating will re-harden the metal, requiring further annealing.
I'm not inventing anything, this excerpt is from Series III workshop manual:
Click to view attachment
I'm not inventing anything, this excerpt is from Series III workshop manual:
Click to view attachment
rub it with a bar of soap, then heat it which ever way you wish, and when the soap goes brown...its done bit like a cake really.....
Edit - just noticed it mentioned the soap method in the above ''cutting''.
bit like a cake really.....Edit - just noticed it mentioned the soap method in the above ''cutting''.
QUOTE (landroversforever @ May 20 2008, 05:46 PM)
rub it with a bar of soap, then heat it which ever way you wish, and when the soap goes brown...its done bit like a cake really.....
Edit - just noticed it mentioned the soap method in the above ''cutting''.
bit like a cake really.....Edit - just noticed it mentioned the soap method in the above ''cutting''.
Funny,
I gave up reading the "cutting" before the soap bit too
Marc.
Loads of help lads, thanks.
I'll have a go at Mk2 in due course, with lots of annealing included.
Anyone had a go with one of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminst...orker-23170.htm ?
I'll have a go at Mk2 in due course, with lots of annealing included.
Anyone had a go with one of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminst...orker-23170.htm ?
QUOTE
Chris, if you quench the panel in water when hot, you'll be at the starting point; even repeated working and beating will re-harden the metal, requiring further annealing.
I'm not inventing anything, this excerpt is from Series III workshop manual:
I'm not inventing anything, this excerpt is from Series III workshop manual:
dont get me wrong silvio, I'm not saying you invented anything, infact youre absolutely right.
What I described is not applicable for 5251 birmabright alloy, as its a non heat treatable alloy which only work hardens. Further cold working will need annealing just as you described.
The materials I work with are different, such as 2024 and 7075 alloys, annealing procedure is similar, but for the requirements we need the alloy is solution annealed to make it softer and then aged (precipitation hardened) to make it stronger. But anyway...sorry for the confusion
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