All,

Got some Aerocatches for my 90.

What's the best approach to cutting neat holes in the bonnet ?
I was going to put a bar across the 2 top rad mount brackets. Will that be strong enough ?

All advice appreciated as I don't really want to put 2 big holes in the bonnet in the wrong place and have to cover my mistake with big halfords air vents

Hi Pete

I am in the same situation with my build, I have them catches here on the desk and also wondered how to do, my thoughts so far was to drill a "pilot" hole 5mm, as close to the middle off where the catch is going to end, as possible, and then mark through that and then measure from that mark, do not know if I have explained myself clear enough but thats the my idea so far.

I have chosen the ones that fits from the outside, not the ones that fits from the inside just to make life a bit easier.

Regards

Ole.

I would probably be inclided to fit the pins where they were going, then put a blob of paint on each one, and close the bonnet onto them. This marks the underside of the bonnet, allowing you to drill a single hole, big enough for the pin to come through.

Assuming you have the templates, these can then be marked up with the pin centreline, if it is not already, and the layout transferred to the bonnet (sharpie markers are your friend...)

How to cut it? I would probably use 2 hole saws, and join resulting holes with the jigsaw....

hth
Mark

I'm with Mark, I fitted the pins and put a blob of tippex on the pin tops - close one bonnet........and drill some holes


Lee

Cut mine out with a Dremel and heavy duty (by Dremel standards) disc. Very neat result.

The catch comes with 'Blackadised' screws which should be thrown away and replaced with stainless. Mine rusted within minutes of fitting them.

Steve

Steve,

The term you might be looking for is "Japaned"

Certainly in my experience, Japaned screws rust as soon as you take them out of the packet!

Well that's one on with the hole saw and dremel method ( the areocatch has a 30 mm arc and a 45 mm arc give or take ). The fit is great but it doesn't line up properly with the pin so I'll have to move the support bar out slightly (or make a new one ). I used the paint method but I think I had the pin too high when I marked it and the bonnet moved out a bit on the swing to the final close position. So my hole is too far back but I can remake the support bar.

Not too bad so far but the trick will be to make the other one look the same as this one and hope the paint on the bonnet survives. Thanks for the tips. ( and the screw donation )

Well the other one is very very close. I think next time I would mark the first one from on top of the bonnet but mark the second one from underneath. The underneath of the bonnet has more features and struts to measure from where the top is an empty expanse of metal. Had trouble getting the pins to line up, my first 2 lots of perfectly measured holes failed to line up on closing so I ended up going for a wide support bar with slots to give me the final adjustment.

Now they are on they are lovely. I would recommend them it is so much easier than messing about in the cab plus they lock.

I found the best way was to fit the pins, close the bonnet onto them, use a pen to mark the pin location and then drill....from there its easy with the template from the top surface. Piece of cake