Having installed my 200TDi auto into the 90 I have ended up with the turbo induction outlet hard up against the inner wing.

So, having read a bit about "clocking" the turbo, and digesting Les' thread in the tech archive, I clamped it to the bench, compressed the monster circlip (much easier said than done with my circlip pliers!) and rotated the housing. It was actually quite easy once I had the circlip under control!

Of course, solving one problem nearly always creates another - I now need to drill and tap the housing to re-mount the waste gate actuator wotsit. that's going to be tricky as it is still attached to the rest of the turbo!!

So I was going to make a bracket up instead that uses the original blind holes. Any one see a problem with that?

Also, is the rod between the vacuum actuator and the flap valve meant to act as a turnbuckle? I am assuming it does, but the rod on mine doesn't want to turn and I am worried about tearing the rubber diaphragm. Any clues?

If anyone has a handy step by step phot guide to all this, that would be great!

Thanks,

the rod isn't a turnbuckle, you have to disconnect the end fitting/clevis pin undo the locknut & adjust the end fitting. the attached info should help.

for the wastegate mounting, you could make up a extended curved plate to fit the original holes.

I made up a brackety thing for my turbo wastegate, its much easier to just hold it shut with a bungee chord though


And can i also say that as i was cleaning a 90 fueltank the other day i noticed the the filler hose is exactly the right shape to come out of the turbo and allow a straight peice of pipe to connect to a 90 degree elbow in to the intercooler. I'm not sure about the ID etc but i can have a looksee with some verynears if its any help?


Will.

Thanks for the info guys.

Will - re the hoses, thanks but I think all of mine will be a bit "different" because of the position of the engine.

Told you not to move it forward 6 inches!

I just re drilled and tapped mine. make the two holes the same distance in from he edge of the casting on the other end of the snail and the same depth and you'll be fine.

Robotman - did you manage to drill and tap it whilst still attached to the turbo? I can't get my circlip undone and don't think I can get a cler shot at it with it still attached. Also, did you drill blind holes or go right through?

If you drilled blind holes, surely the taps you have won't get you a thread deep enough in to stop it strippping?

To tap blind holes you will need a plug tap (often referred to as a number 3)............. but first run a standard taper tap in to start the thread.

What size ?



Ian

I separated the turbo and then clamped the housing onto a pillar drill, hole was drilled to depth (use the depth gauge lock off!) and then tapped as BBC says using at the end a plug tap. As I recall it was M6. I acheived exactly the same depth of thread as the originals, so I'm quietly confident.
If you are unfamiliar with using taps I would suggest an Aluminium alloy turbocharger casting may not be the best place to start, have a bit practice first lol.

You can completely remove the alloy casing, so rotate it, mark the hole positions, then remove the circlip and remove the housing. There's a thin O-ring in there as well, so be careful not to damage it. The holes can then be drilled and tapped (they are M6 coarse thread).


Les.

Correction - you can Uncle Les, but 'ickle 'ol me with my collection of circlip pliers - (5 of them, count them!) can't control the damn thing enough to get it off.

I think I will go with making a new bracket. Much more my style of engineering!

I took mine right off and re-tapped the hoels aswell.

You need to buy some bigger circlip pliers Bish!!
Jon

Why not go the whole hog and fit the turbo upside down, rotate the bearing housing and the compresser housing and everything pipes up easily
Click to view attachment

That's a damned clever idea


Les.