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LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum > Vehicles > Defender Forum
JonJon
Morning

It must know I've been talking about it.

Earlier, It turned over once, then died. Then proceeded to 'click - click' on every key-turn after that. Not being overly technical, I undid everything, checked battery charge and reconnected and it started just fine.

But to save my other half getting stuck or stranded in the week, what could be the cause of click-click-fever? It couldn't have been poor connections because the glow-plug light and battery light came on with the ignition, and the charge seemed o.k?

Following yesterdays post asking for electrical references (thanks for the suggestions) this is in light of every week, a new function going off-line. It's quite exciting actually, we never know what will work or what won't every time we get in it.

Rear screen wash means "indicate right" and reverse light flashing means "intermittent fog wiper". I guess.
Retroanaconda
I had the same thing (in John Craddock's car park of all places). Turned out the earth battery clamp wasn't provinging enough of a connection. It was enough to run the auxillary systems and lights, but on cranking it couldn't provide the juice. I discovered it when I accidentally bridged the clamp and the post with a multimeter and there was one hell of a spark biggrin.gif
beekay
Hi,
You say that it couldn't be a bad connection because the ignition light and glow plug light came on. However, after disconnecting the battery and reconnecting , it started fine.
A clicking solenoid is a classic symptom of current starvation to the starter motor caused either by a faulty/poorly charged battery or a poor earth or positive connection.
A starter motor on a cold diesel engine draws a huge current, any high resistance connections will cause a large voltage drop which in turn drops the solenoid out allowing the battery voltage to come back up and the starter to engage again, and so on... hence the click click click.
Lower current devices such as dash lights and relays will not generally be affected as they do not create enough voltage drop across the faulty connection.
I suggest that assuming you have checked the battery charge condition and found it to be good, you did indeed have a bad connection onto the battery terminal which you rectified by disconnecting and reconnecting.
Still it would be a good idea to check the other connections such as the chassis/gearbox earth and main starter solenoid positive feed just in case.
If after all this you still have problems, get the battery checked properly using a battery analyser or drop tester (Quickfit will generally do this free of charge) or any auto electrical place, and make sure the alternator is charging the battery correctly - winter is upon us!!! sad.gif

Hope this helps.
Cat_J
As its now cold I was getting this problem. I changed my 480CCA/65Ah battery over for a 720CCA/95Ah (£50 from work, woop) and its been sweet as ever since.
JonJon
Thanks everyone for your help!
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