There is no current reaching the glow plugs of my 1992-94 ex mil defender. I traced it back to the ignition switch and so I assume the glow plug servo is dead. So all the servo's are in a line under the fuses and I can't find out which one is for the glow plugs?

Martin

Is the glow plug relay ot on the bulkhead on the engine side. What engine do you have. I'll look at the ones at work. As we still have N/A Diesel LR

only Tdi's & Td5 have a glow plug timer relay, could be a dead start relay [red/white wires to it]

There are 4 yellow plastic relays and one metal relay under the fuses engine bulkhead inside the cab. I assumed it was the relay but it could be something else, there is definitely 0 volts at the ignition switch connector that provides power to the glow plugs.

My other option is to rig a push button switch which will manually provide power to the plugs on cold start, I did this on an old chevy I had and it worked a treat.

Martin

hi,

As far as i understand it, the NA didnt have a heater plug relay. All the current went through the ignition switch. (Well my ExMod was this way). Because of the high current involved any sort of resistance would give problems.
I solved this problem by wiring in a seperate high power relay directly from battery(Fused with a Maxifuse) and used the output from the ignition switch as a trigger for relay.
Dont mean to be patronising but i take it you are holding the key turned onto the springy part of ignition switch slightly to heat plugs.
(I didnt know anything about this for a long time so no bones there).

All bits i got were from VWP.

You will soon know when you got the plugs working as the NA will be so easy to start. Bet at the moment it is a real b!!

Hope this helps.

I'm not offended but yes I am holding the key in the correct position, I think I will have to do a similar patch because I now believe the fault could be in the key switch.

Do the plugs have a fuse in the fuse box, I can't see one on the diagramatic listing each fuse but there is one for something drawn like two T's head to head?

Thanks for the help.

Martin

I dont think the cable is fused. Power is from the main input to ignition switch which i think is straight from the battery.
Not an ideal situation but i think i am right in saying this. Ideally a fuse would be inline. Will have look tommorrow if i get a chance.

I am definitely a fan of relays though and think this would be the best option. Powerwise and operationaly.
All i did was remove the big thick brown cable and used a smaller one in its place to operate the relay. Feed for heater directly from battery via fuse.

I also removed the old glass type fuse holder with a blade type from VWP also. No problems with lights or other electrics since! Would recommend this mod also.

Cheers.