Engine revs increase going uphill when throttle pressed without speed increasing.

Vehicle 110 defender CSW, weight about 2.6 tons with winch, guards etc etc.

Engine International HS2.8tgv (derived from 300tdi producing standard 135BHP & 375ft.lb. of torque at 1400rpm, plus coolcharger intercooler giving +20bhp)

Gearbox R380 plus Roverdrive overdrive. Transfer Box 1.410

Clutch H/D borg & beck (as standard on a 130 defender) having done 13000 miles from new.

No use in aggressive offroad situations, only light towing around 3/4 ton all up.

Tyres 265/75/16 BFG A/T

Symptoms - going up hill at say 50mph in overdrive with good momentum, if I press throttle for a bit more speed the engine revs increase without the vehicle speed increasing.

I suspect clutch slip.

In doing this am I expecting too much from the clutch?

No evidence of clutch slip when not in overdrive or in lower gears, no evidence of burning clutch/smell etc. No apparent oil contamination/drips from bellhousing.

If it is the clutch and there has been a bit of slipping on a couple of occasions as described above, how long have I got given that I do not continue to press down in overdrive going uphill?

Are there any simple tests I can do give me an idea as to the life expectancy of the clutch.

Any advice appreciated.

John

You may want to wait for an expert like Les to come along but it sounds to me like the clutch is slipping. It's the only part that can allow slipping. All other parts with just fail.


Neil

Sounds like classic clutch slip to me too. The 2.8 does make a fair bit of torque

It might last another 5 years or it might give up tomorrow - get it sorted before you get stuck somewhere remote.

... and in overdrive so you are in your highest gear.

Mo

Had this, clutch plate slipping
caused over heating /hot spots on flywheel
badly adjusted new master cylinder the cause
new clutch/skimmed flywheel an adjusted m/c to fix

I`ve just had exactly those symptoms on mine after having a new (faulty) clutch fitted. I could not get it to slip in low gears but it would slip on hills in 4th or 5th when giving it some! In my case there was lack of tension/play in the springs,not evident when it was back out on the bench.

I'd say definitly clutch slip, try adjusting the master cylinder/pedal it may stop but if not only fix is another clutch. & overdrive 5th on hills won't help matters.

Thanks all for your input.

I spoke to M&D Engineering who specialise in the 2.8TGV.

They fit a clutch made for them by AP Racing, having had problems with standard Land Rover clutches on these engines.

£295+VAT just for the parts + the flywheel has to be drilled to fit, another £95+VAT if they do it.


Ralph is the master clutch adjustment straight forward, any tips please.

John

Wouldnt a 6 paddle sprung drive plate and 130 cover be a cheaper option?
Clutch master cylinder adjustment is easy; remove the top cover on the pedal box(6 screws), undo the end nut on the pushrod(13mm hex), check for free end play in the pushrod, 1/16" is the book figure, adjust the inner nut to give this figure, tighten outer nut back up, refit top plate, JD.

take off the pedal box cover 6 screws, slacken the 2 locknuts, adjust until pedal lower edge is 146mm above the floor, tighten the locknuts, readjust the stop bolt/nut if required.

from defender workshop manual, always worth checking/readjust after a clutch master cylinder change

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...p;hl=130+clutch

Hi,

Yes it's clutch slip but could it be the overdrive ?

the GKN used a cone clutch that sometimes slipped, did the Roverdrive ?

may be worth pulling it off and putting an input gear in to test,

Roverdrive uses a syncro/dog clutch like a 3rd/top syncro in a series box.

Update.

So far I have adjusted the clutch pedal travel to 140mm from the floor as per Ralph's instructions.

It was at about 120mm.

I adjusted the push-rod as best I could from quite a bit of slack in the pedal to around 6mm but fount the lock nuts difficult, I need some thinner 13mm spanners!

The end nut on the push-rod was a nylock as opposed to two nuts, is this normal these days.

The outcome on a 50 mile test drive was no clutch slip and gear changing appeared to require less clutch pedal effort.

The return 50 miles this time with 255/85/16 BFG MT's (replacing the 265/75/16 BFG AT's) gave no evidence of clutch slip, despite the changed gearing effect of the larger circumference tyre. In fact the new tyres increased my speed from 60 to 65 mph for the same rpm, correcting the under reading speedo error on the AT's (Verified by GPS)

The new MT's have added yet another "gear" without the clutch slipping since the adjustments to the pedal/push-rod.

So far so good, I am off in the morning for a 150 mile run followed by some offroad routes in the Peak District. I will do some further gentle tests on any tarmac inclines on the way up to ensure the problem is solved.

Thanks for all advice and input.

John

i've just started having the same problem with mine now fitted new clutch pressure plate 6 months ago (1-2k ago) only started doing it now no leaks etc bleed adjusted clutch peddle slave cylinder all done after chassis change few weeks ago

any advice fly wheel etc was fine when changed it over hoping dont have to change the clutch again

dave

do the pedal adjustment as above & see how it is after.

Back from Peaks trip, no clutch slip either on the 150 mile trip each way using overdrive whenever suitable, nor on the off tarmac sections, including some climbing of stiff rocky sections and other long ascents.

So the clutch pedal adjustment appears to have worked in my case.

Thanks Ralph!

John

i had some clutch slip after putting in my 200 tdi, the pedal adjustment has sort my problem out so far. im also about a 1/2" of free play on mine.

Good job you caught it in time
Mine was ruined and the flywheel damaged
in just 300miles