I could probably answer this with a PM to Ralph , but thought I'd put it out to the lesser mortals too - after all, it gets my post count up

I am about to install a 200TDi into my RR and want to do all necessary servicing before I drop it in.

Consequently, I would like to draw up a parts list. The list needs to include all belts filters fluids etc that I should change at this juncture.

So, who can give me a full list before Ralph gets online...

ask exeter4x4 store they do service kits
but ask for pattern air/fuel, genuine oil filter
cambelt ETC8550
cambelt tensioner ERR2530
timing case gasket ERR1553
fan belt ?
rocker cover gasket ERR2393
fuel filter AEU2147L

Do you still want to do the head gasket? If so you might consider new head bolts as well as head and manifold gaskets - or even a top-end set which will include rocker cover etc.


Chris

Tony,

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you think I should do the rear crank oil seal? Opinion seems to be divided, but at 150k I would have thought it would be a good idea....



Chris,

Don't know if I should do the head pre-emptively or not, but wouldn't I need to know the thickness of the existing gasket before replacing it? New head bolts are a given should I do the head gasket.

Cheers,

Bish.

You can pull my engine and do the rear seal as a practice run if you like? Yes, I'd do the rear seal on a 300Tdi, not sure about a 200 but while it's apart...

It is quite easy to do it in the car if you should need to, I personally would leave it. The gasket is ID'd by the number of holes on a "tab" which can be seen sticking out on the manifold side of the engine. IIRC there are some plain holes and one with a rivet in which you do not count - or the one with the rivet may just be the Floda... Remember that if you remove the head you may then discover, like Si did, that the head needs skimmed. Either way, if you decide that you want to do the gasket I will be around at the weekend and I am confident enough to have a go - under your supervision.

Chris

In my experience if it isn't leaking leave well alone.
headgasket is a relativley simple job that can be done insitu.
you could end up spending a fair few quid on changing things that are perfectly ok.

If the seal is OK then I might be inclined to leave it. You will be peeved if you take it apart, change the seal and then find it leaks on start-up. I have seen it happen a few times.

Chris

<stimulating debate> I'd do the rear seal, since they are prone to leaking and it's a pain to have to take the engine out. As Snr Mud says, the head gasket isn't too bad to do in situ.

Bish,, Leave the head gasket, not a lot harder to do in the vehicle, that out !! unless you know it allready has a problem

I would do the rear crank seal, its could be the org 12 year old and 150k one in there, as only coppers to do and a lot easier that when the lump in the Rangie,

Don't forget:

Thermostat
Waterpump
Clutch & release bearing
Clutch arm?
Lift pump?

And re-bore, new pistons, shells, cam and followers...

Chris

Bish

I'd do the rear seal and leave the head gasket as it can be easily done in situ.

Actually i have no idea, I just thought I'd add to the list of people above saying that and try to give the impression that I'm knowledgable about TDI engines!!


Steve

He is fitting an auto box too you know.

new crank
flywheel
head
block
sump
oil pump
injection pump
turbo
inlet manifold

whilst your there just to be safe

Leave the head until it goes or the valve stem seals fail

Do the crank shaft oil seals at BOTH ends, re fit the front pulley woodruff key correctly.

Change the cam shaft oil seal

This is the biggy though. Whislt the lump is out take off the lift pump and the breather cover and check the cam shaft bearings have not done a little shuffle to the back of the block, thus exposing the oil ways. If they have, your oil pressure will be pants and not up to repeated off road abuse. This is a cam out job for ease sake so check now...

Fit a new water pump for love's sake and check the mating face

Drop the sump, clean it and the pick up filter.

Whip out your injectors and hoof them down to your nearest inject refurb center

Change the seals on the lift pump and vacuum pump

Change the core plugs behind the exhaust manifold - they rarely fail but are a B*st*rd to work on...

I'd change these ---

fuel/oil/air filters
oil
timing belt
tensioner if not 100% happy with it [mine's done well over 200,000miles & is in fine condition, may replace it on the next belt change]
power steering belt
alternator/fan belt
gaskets as required
if the head is OK I'd leave it alone
clutch fork & release bearing would be a good move too

still went me to send a list of numbers for all these parts ?
or even better would you like a copy of EPC love the comments in your original post

Right. Here's my parts list so far:







Yes the timing belt is a Dayco.



I cannot find the following:



Lift pump seal

Vacuum pump seal

Core plugs



I haven't added a waterpump to the list - is it really necessary?

I'd appreciate it if a grown up could check over my list before I press the expensive button...

Cheers!

Bish.

looks good to me, wouldn't bother with w/pump, easy to change in situ.

dont forget to polish your crank journals

It could be worth while changing the input seal in the t/fer box whilst it's all out. part no icv100000 from memory.

You might be as well doing the sump gasket if it's anywere near damp, but if i was dropping the sump i'd have a look at a main and a big end while i was in there.


After all it give you a better idea of the condition of the engine

from memory the sump gasket on a Tdi is RTV not a real gasket

I cannot find the following:


Lift pump seal ------------------- err2028 reuse the spacer block just clean off the old gaskets

Vacuum pump seal -------------gasket etc4616, top plate seal aeu2719

Core plugs-------------- if there OK leave well alone, most car shops will have stock of suitable sizes.

Cheers Ralph!

Me too

there is no sump gasket on the 200 tdi