The bolts on the back end of my 90 are starting to rust, like they do to show it is ooooh two and half years old at least

I've seen kits advertised to replace the whole lot with stainless, I found one kit thanks to Google from Mud Stuff, are there any others worth looking at? Mud stuff's kit is £40 which is quite a bit of a bag of bolts, but that seems to include just about all the exposed bolts including bonnet hinges and stuff, so should sort the problem for good.

Makes you wonder why LR don't pop another £40 on the price of the vehicle and fit them as standard, doesn't it?

Ta

Stephen

Mud Stuff is Kev Baldwin from here so I'm sure a discount would be available

Don't forget that stainless and aluminium make poor bedfellows...

Do they react in the same way as rusty steel and alli then?

I thought that s/s was more or less inert hence the fact that all the shiny bits of my boat are stainless

Stainless is definately not inert. MOG is right, you will get a reaction similar to mild steel and ali, just can't remember if it will be better or worse!

It depends where they are in the Galvanic Series, the further apart the metal, the more corrosion you'll get.

Luke

Does this mean the SS bolt stays shiney but the ali panel disappears arround it

Bah - I believe the relevant expression rhymes with "rowlocks"

So I either have dissolving bolts or a dissolving rover?

Ho hum.... rocks, hard places, frying pans and fires

So hang on, looking at that table if you put a gold bolt into a magnesium panel there would be a f&%^ing great big explosion that would wipe out the planet?

Just copper grease the bolts when you put them in. Then you just have to worry about the copper reacting, oh and them falling out!!

Btw I bought the 90 kit and it was all labelled up etc ok. I figured that once you price up the bolts and the hassle of getting the right size etc it was worth it.

They also seem to be the only place that does full kit. Most are just door hinge bolts.

Cheers

Steve

The whole thing depends on you having an electrolyte to get the whole reaction going in. Hence sacrifical anodes on boats in salt water (no, they don't work on landies ). I'm guessing the fresh salty air of the Falkland Islands doesn't really work in your favour

Isolation is the key, silicon, rubber washers, etc etc is all you can do about it really. wasn't there a bridge somewhere that had the bolts corrode to dust because someone didn't fit all the isolating bits of stuff?

Well I think I will get them anyway, rusty bolts in alli panels doesn't do much for the panel in the long term either, and that is something I DO know...

Somebody needs to make a little sort of bolt condom that will wind in with the threads and keep the different metals isolated.

Coo I have just made my fortune - the BogMonsterBoltDom™ (patent applied for)

I've got anode, its just below and in front of my eyes

The boat people say that you shouldn't use copper grease in a salt water environment precisely because of the electrolytic reaction caused by the copper, which is interesting to bear in mind

could use jointing compound as used on aircraft, this stuff http://www.lasaero.com/las/30?part=JC5A
some boats must use a similar compound,do you know anyone at the airfields :ninja:

alternatly, why not use plastic washers under the heads of the bolts? nylon or ptfe washers are pretty readily available from the right places. That should isolate the bolt from the ally panel...

Mark

My dad told me off for using copper grease on bolts in the engine block for the same reason. Told me to use engine oil or non-metallic grease. That said it doesn't seem to have caused a problem where I have.

I've got a tub of old fashioned graphite grease somebody gave me which was made in the 1950s some time I think. It makes the "graphite" grease you can buy these days look pretty p*ss poor quality, this stuff is so good you almost want to eat it

This is the stuff to use...

ANTI-SEIZE

# This is an aluminium based anti-seize that can be used on all metals to give excellent protection against seizure, rust, corrosion, water and acid. Forms a protective coating that will not wash or burn off
# 400ml £3.99



M&P Motorcycles

I was talking to Tony, White90 the other day about this, but I thought the company was no more as their site was no longer there. Seems they were bought out and the web address changed at some point.

I was recommended this a long time ago for stainless to ally fixings and also for spraying on to hubs with alloys to stop them reacting and sticking. I had a couple of cans and have used it for the past 4 years and can vouch for it's effectiveness. I'm happy now because I can buy a couple of more cans!

Cheers

Steve

Stephen

Someone is ahead of you on this one!

The product to use is called "Duralac" an anti-corrosivejointing compound.

It is a paste, and on the tube it says "used in the aerospace industry as an essential corrosion inhibiting material wherever dissimilar metals are joined"

Website www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk

It contains white spirit and barium chromate.

I use it when fixing items with stainless steel fastenings to the alloy mast of my yacht and on my rib where relevant. I know most "professional riggers" use it whenever they fix to alloy with S/S fittings/fixings.



John

I wonder if they do mail order?

What sort of RIB have you got John?

I bet the RAF use something like this down there, worth a call?

I have a Humber Destroyer 5.5m with a Yamaha 130hp V4 2 stroke.

You may remember it was I that recommended you to Ribnet, where I note you are a prolific poster.

As for the Duralac if you cannot borrow some locally, try a yacht chandler in the UK, it comes in a 150g tube and costs around £7.00 retail.
It goes a long way so a tube should last ages.


John

Maybe, I don't really have any contacts within the crabs though.

I thought it was TJ101 that pointed me to RIBnet, humble apologies

Something else for next year's shopping list then!

Perhaps we both did!


John