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Can these or similar be sourced here?@$58 complete they're not cheap x10! plus post.

Gigglepin sell them in the UK for about a £100 I think

Something even better/cheaper/bolt on is being tested as we speak...

Will

Why would you want cheaper?????

FB

Bolt on??? It's a joint that mates to a plain tube by welding in an insert - how are you gonna make that 'bolt on'?



Al.

Sssssh its so secret only Will knows

Will you playing with tractor top link bars?

Hahaha, no but as its not my product so I don't want to let the cat out of the bag

FB, don't get me wrong, Jim's joints are nice but these one's I've seen (and Jim has too) are even better IMHO.

Anyone who's interested should speak to SimonR (aka Mr X-Eng)

James, its all about Gyro Joints

try currie enteprises thtas were we get ours from $41 for 2.5" cant see £100 in them even 3" are only $80

They tend to come out a bit spendy when you add shipping to the UK & import duty!

Si

[quote name='simonr' date='Oct 22 2006, 06:06 PM' post='94341']
They tend to come out a bit spendy when you add shipping to the UK & import duty!

I buy them in bulk and ship the long way round takes for ever but it is darn sit cheeper other way is through canada for import duty

Si, Jim or Dave

These are very similar to what the freelander links are on the Riger struts. I need two (one replacement and a spare)

If I get the spec can you get them

Buying stuff from M-sport is very pricy and I always feel I'm being ripped off.

mm that just look like standard Rose joints to me, witch most large bairing shops would sell at ~£15 to £30 each.

Exactly what I was thinking, if you want to attach it to a tube, suggest you use a female type Rawlbolt, depending on the size you use for what tube they are incredibly strong, I've seen them split tube before they give.

will these do for what i'm after?

rose joints

Seems cheap.prob made outta lead!

I bought four of these a while back (still have them under my bench). Not bad quality - but feel a bit insubstantial for what I was hoping to do. They are actually the main reason I went down the route of producing my own!

The ones on eBay are good value. I paid about £25 per joint inc shipping from the US. Mine do have rubber seals and inserts to increase the max offset angle though.

Si

On that subject, how's progress?

Up & down! The company making the PU bushings seems to have gone bust! Sadly, they still have the Aluminium master I had machined for the mould I might have to get another one made and go to a different company now - or even consider casting them myself!

The first of the joints currently on test seem to be performing well and the one lubricated with valve grinding paste still shows no sign of play - which bodes well for the design.

I had a meeting with the CNC shop a couple of weeks ago where we sat down and simplified the design a bit and changed some of the material which has reduced the machining cost by about 20% without compromising the spec. The new design will look nicer too! I'm just waiting for them to make a couple of prototypes and if they work, they'll get an order immediatly.

If I can sort out the bushings fairly quickly, they should be ready for Xmas!

Si

OK, let me know when you're done as I'll put them all round (modded front and rear) on the truck.

Hi,

We carry these joints on the shelf and they are considerably less than £100..........

As for Simon's comments about the joints reliability.......

We have been racing these joints for over a year on several cars and have not rebuilt, never mind replaced any of them. These joints have poly centres that are replacable if required and are i one word 'Lovely'.
On our prototypes we used rose joints (Which are very different) and even using very expensive items (£60+) these had to be replaced within 8 months.

Hope this helps to dispell some of the myths

Regards

Jim
01732 463600

out of interest how much are you selling them for Jim?

Err....where did I comment on the reliability of ANY joints? I said the ones I bought, similar to those linked to felt insubstantial.

They are a world of difference from the Joints you use - at least the one's I've seen!

Si

This might sound a little thick, but what are you all using these rose joints for and why?

If you pick up the back of your LR with a fork lift, hoist, HiLift etc, you get to a point where the thing that is stopping the axle dropping any further is not the length of the shock absorber, but the amount of flex in the bush which connects your radius arm to your chassis.

The idea of using a rose joint or similar is to free this up so there is no restriction in its movement.

Most rose joints are fine so long as the axle is level, but as it starts to articulate, it tries to twist the radius arms. The amount of freedom of movement available for rotation in this axis is usually far more restricted for rose joints than even the original bush.

As a result, many people just allow the joint to unscrew slightly from the radius arm when it runs out of rotational travel.

Another option is to use a rose joint on either end of the radius arm which doubles the possible rotation.

The last option is to use a ball-socket joint with the ball like a lolly-pop on the end of the radius arm. If carefully designed, it can have enough movement up & down and has unlimited rotation - but there is nothing like this that is suitable off the shelf. Even Gyro-Joints need modifying and need you to re-make the radius arm hangers to fit.
Si

Aah, cool, thanks for the explaination.

I dont spose anyone has pics of them in that application?

I'm sure Jim won't mind me posting this...

Are they custom mounts then, and i take it a custom trailing arm too?

Yes, but they do a kit. See here