Any recommendations for chassis paint, i've always thought that the concept of the "before 'n' after" was great but i understand some of the application leaves a bit to be desired, plus i'd want to do it myself.

So is there anything available, epoxy paint, or teflon based paint that is suitable for chassis/underbody painting that will withstand heat, mud, water and general LR abuse?

If you go to a professional paint supplier, you can buy 'Chassis Black' which can either be a single pack or a 2-pack epoxy. I have used both, and the epoxy is excellent, but you need to go to a trade supplier to get it.

can't be much more help, sorry.

Mark

On the 90 i completely wirebrushed the chassis back to bare metal and then painted with 2 coats red oxide primer and I intended to use 1 coat black hammersh*te, however as it refuses to stick to red oxide it turned into more like 4 coats of hammersh*te.

I am completely unimpressed by the results and would not recommend hammerite - it seems to be flaking away and taking the undercoat with it

The red oxide (from screwfix) was fine though and may be better with another top coat

I still have enough red oxide for a chassis and a large quanity of brushes i bought to do the job if you want them? Being local and all

Lewis

Whatever you do, do not use Zinc Rich Primer on top of previous coating I removed all of the loose stuff I could, blasted it with water and really thought I'd done a good job of preparation.

However, rather than just prime the bare bits, I thought I'd be as well painting it all. It went on fine, no blistering, looked like good adhesion.. Couple of days later, applied chassis black and called the job a "good 'un".

Then I noticed lumps of the stuff falling off and the cured finish appeared crispy where the adhesion had failed... Went back to Witham Paint (Manufacturers / Suppliers in Lowestoft) and spoke to one of their experts who was very helpful, had a look and confirmed the Zinc Rich primer had reacted with the original paint.. Result was a really demorallising "age" under the wagon again, trying to chip off the stuff. Ended up leaving good patches and even now, still find little areas where it wants to come off.

Have to say - Witham were really helpful The misleading information came from "Practical Classics Magazine" where they allegedly tested it on a MG (IIRC) that was being restored (not a ground up rebuild) - although the sequence of photos showed previous paints etc, not a whisper of reactions.

I'm now a red oxide / chassis black / Waxoyl convert.

I tend to use Bodyline chassis paint (comes from the motor factors), its cheap and looks nice, brush on or spray and it goes a long way in terms of coverage. Historically it seems to take a good kicking before it fails, John found an alternative but due to insufficient coffee intake I cant remember the name - soz

Thanks for the info guys

Lewis - cheers for the offer, sadly not so local any more (long story!)

Zinc Phosphate black primer, the paint guys recommended it. Anything with a big orange warning sticker on the side is a good sign of effectiveness

So do you need to rub down the whole chassis first, or can you spray over the top of the old paint if its still good...

Just about to spray my chassis but having seen a mate do his with hammerite i want to use another product which is chassis black..

Hammarite always seems to look like a bit of a bodge up... only my own opinion tho

Dragging this one back to the top....

My local 'factors are offering tetraseal chassis paint. About £45 for 5 litres!!

Anybody had any experience?

I also have acquired (ahem ) a large aerosol of Zinga. Again, any experiences out there...?

haggle hard on the price, bought a can at the local factors and it was £25 for 5 litres

its thick as treacle - so it thins out and goes a loooooooooooooooooooooooooong way

I bought a 5 litre tin of chassis black from manor coatings, was about £25 IIRC, also very thick i just put one coat on with a brush, dries extra glossy and smooth-not a brush mark to be seen

Whilst a small amount has come off my 90's rear crossmember where a rope was slip knotted round it then used to pull a lorry out i cant fault it especially as the paint prep was 100% visual ('is it dry', 'yes'.) so i dont expect miricles.


Thumbs up from me.

Will.

I suspect that anti-vandal paint might be a good option. After all, if aerosol paint will not stick to it - what chance has mud got?

Si

I had the same problem a while ago, & decided to use galvafroid.... to may regrets looks good on but can be scratched off very easily. Somebody else advised using POR15 from Frost restorations. Apparently bulletproof so to speak
http://www.frost.co.uk/
Adrian

POR15 is rubbish on anything but rusty metal
I can go and peel some off my chassis and post you if you want some

Zinga is really good, but you need a clean surface. If you apply it over old paint it will just fall of after a while.