Hi, i am new here.

I hope i post this on the right place.

I read the topic about diff pegging and want to do this.
Because i broke many times my CP of the front diff. (Series 3 LW).

But what may i use to weld the plate on the diff?

Have a peekaboo at this :

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=9440&hl=

From the man known as "The Man of 1,000,000 Hammers"

Nige

Hi,

Thanks, i already read the topic and reply to it.

But thanks again!

Erwin

In simple terms here you are welding a lump of steel plate to a casting, whilst I am not a coded welder (there are some pro welders here on this forum who I am sure can advise better), it is NOT a simple jobbie, as you have dissimilar metals. Clean surfaces are even more importnat, and you need to be very carefull about distrotion.

You can get special rods that would allow you to weld steel plate to cast, this could be either gas or more likely TIG, JW has a diff that he has borrowed from a mate which was Brazed up, and seems to have lasted.

Whichever way, whoever does the welding will need to be rather good at it, as dissimilar metal welding is not a DIY job.

HTH

Nige

Ok, i did try to weld a piece of metal to an old diff with an (i think) MIG welder.
I made the diff clean and weld it. It was 10 cm long and i could not remove it with a big hamer.
So it think this will do for this purpose.

Dunno if this is any use to you, but..

My guy who did mine said that you need some preheat in the diff casing to stop distortion. He uesd a chopped down bit of angle as the plate.

Adrian

Nige,
you seen JW's diff now?

you do need to get things hot else they expand at different rates and welds can crack, i tig'd it

another spanner in the works does anybody now if so which type of rod u use to weld cast with a arc welder

try here http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/OXY_handbook/589oxy15_1.htm

Or this http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/a...ironpreheat.asp

I may be completely wrong but aren't diffs cast steel, not cast iron ?

Preheating still a good idea but it does affect the choice of rods.

The Rover axle housing (diff housing) is hot pressed steel isn't it? The plate that is the diff housing is mild steel as far as Im aware. In that case, ordinary mild steel wire/ sticks/ 2mm CCMS would be ok I think.
I'm not sure about the salisbury axle though, I think they are cast iron with a mild steel cover.
I repaired a split in the base of a Rover axle with mild steel gas welding, and the finish/ weld penetration was fine.


Les.

Is it actually necessary to weld a plate on at all?

You could stick it in a mill and cut the two holes with a slot drill (because you are 'drilling' an inclined surface) then tap the holes. Make up two tubes with angled ends for a lock nut to press against. Seems a lot easier than all that welding!

Si

But it wouldn't be a welded diff then

once the weldings sorted where do u get fosfor bronze from

RS sell it as big bits of rod. Yet to find a supplier of bar yet....

flat bar is always more expensive than round bar, no idea why though, Aalco can supply flat bar

It is necessary to add a plate to the diff housing as the material there is actually pretty thin, and if tapped at M16 you'd probably only get 1 or 2 threads in the casing - its only about 3mm thick.

Round bar from Rs, or you can buy square section or round bar from Mallard Metals in Brum by the inch. You do need to use PB as having tried it, brass is not hard enough and wears extremely quickly!

Jon

I'm sure I saw/read somewhere a guy who just stuck two big bolts in and no plate at all, on the grounds that the wheel would only touch momentarily under high load and that the oil in the diff would provide enough lubrication to prevent significant wear.

i was looking at diff today trying to work out best way to drill holes into casing so bolts will line up with crown wheel . as diff casing is tapered making it difficult to measure up.

Meant to add that I've seen one (supposedly professionally done) and the plates had been brazed to the casing rather than welded.

Jon