geoffbeaumont

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geoffbeaumont last won the day on December 20 2016

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About geoffbeaumont

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    Back at the oars
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    http://www.integrious.co.uk/
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    Wellington, Somerset

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    Avoiding computers (I work in IT). Caving, hillwalking (no bobble hat), youth work and fixing Land Rovers. No time for any of those those, though - too busy fixing the shed of a house we bought...

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  1. No experience of the rubber tiles, but I took FridgeFreezer's advice when I built mine and used the Ask Coatings Epoxy - I'm very pleased with it, and so far (a year in) seems to be very durable.
  2. PM sent, David.
  3. From a utility point of view, plastic panels (done right) could be pretty effective - particularly against the sort of minor knocks that account for a lot of the damage land rovers pick up when used in anger. However, from an environmental point of view, it's not so great...
  4. That looks like they only do coil suspension chassis to fit a 109? Not sure if you can legitimately declare that as an original spec replacement, even assuming you want to convert to coils?
  5. Nige's may well have started out as a flapper (I can't remember) - it's a custom built engine, so I wouldn't draw any conclusions about what will fit a standard engine from it.
  6. What Igol says - stoves are designed to radiate heat, opening the door at best makes them burn too fast and waste most of the heat up the flue. More likely it'll mess up the air flow through the stove and it won't actually burn as well as it does with the door closed (as well as still wasting most of the heat up the flue) - that's certainly the case with ours. One of the nice things with a decent stove is that it's controllable and you can get the most out of even relatively poor firewood - bits of pallet aren't anywhere near as good as decent hardwood, but I find they're perfectly okay. You have to stoke the fire a bit more often, but not so much it's a PITA. Not what I'd choose to burn, but if I happen to have some going free I use them!
  7. I may well put something under the track, but this is more just covering the whole area so scenery can be stuck down without wrecking the loft boards. I think I've got some wood flooring underlay which might work well. The spray adhesive seems to be successful - it's not a strong bond, but I think it's enough and it peels off leaving not too much mess on the boards. Not as well fixed as I'd hoped it would be with wallpaper paste, easier and far less messy to remove. I only had the end of a can - enough to try - so I'll pick some more up today.
  8. That's worth a shot - didn't think of that. I tried a corner before I left this morning - we'll see whether it holds!
  9. Okay, this is pretty much totally off topic... The only excuse I can plead is that it's in my workshop. I've loft boarded the roof trusses and part of the loft will be used for my son's model railway. It'll be laid straight on the floor as it's at the side and there isn't much headroom. I had the bright (I thought) idea of sticking lining paper on the boards, so that scenery could be glued down without damaging the boards and if the railway was removed they could simply be steamed off. However...it turns out wallpaper paste doesn't stick to loft boards. At the moment I'm thinking spray it with PVA solution (which should stick but wouldn't come off). Anyone got any better suggestions?
  10. Is your stove designed for storing wood near it (some have a store underneath)? If not, be very careful - a neighbour down the road had a house fire as a result of storing logs too close to their stove. Fire brigade got there in time and they only had localised damage in their living room, but it could easily have been a lot worse. Your stove should have specified dimensions for the non-combustible zone around it (i.e. the area which must be clear of combustible material). Store the logs outside this.
  11. If that's the 9.2kw one you were on about then construction regs would require a vent if it was installed in a house (so presumably in the garage too) - but I would imagine that in practice you have more than enough ventilation already. If not you have an exceptionally well sealed garage!
  12. No point unless Alan wants to put it somewhere the 14CUX case won't fit and the megasquirt one will. Besides, it would break Jonathan's heart Someone (think it might have been you Fridge?) said a megasquirt wouldn't fit in a 14CUX case, and he couldn't resist the challenge... Plus if you do want to keep the existing loom, it makes installation really easy, as the ECU end uses the standard connector
  13. As fridge says, that ECU hasn't been mine for years! My range rover had all the toys including air suspension. They all worked just as well with megasquirt as with hotwire. The systems on a classic have very little integration - at most they switch a simple "I'm on" signal line.
  14. I'm guessing the rest of that car is gone then? Unless someone has already sorted it it would need the table switching input sorted out, but should otherwise be perfect for DHSE1's purposes. Plus as Fridge says it's mounted in a 14CUX ECU case using the standard connector, so makes for a tidy implementation (from memory you need to cut a notch out of the back of the bracket that holds the ECU under the seat, to make room for the additional connector for the EDIS).
  15. Well, a multipoint injection system should be more efficient and offer better performance, doesn't suffer from a risk of explosions blowing the air intake apart. It's generally better, so if I was starting from scratch I'd go that way - but if you have a perfectly good venturi kit that you're happy with I doubt there's a big enough benefit to worth changing it. Exactly why I didn't change mine. With a "standard" megasquirt I or II you wouldn't have sequential injection anyway (they use batch injection the same as the hotwire system). Sequential injection would require either a megasquirt III or II with an add on board - more expense and complication, and aledgedly little benefit on an RV8. The multipoint LPG systems normally just follow the injector pulses generated by the main ECU, so even using a "sequential" LPG controller I think you'd still actually be getting batch injection on LPG as well. Obviously, if you fancy the challenge you could get everything set up to run sequentially, but it sounds like you're after straightforward, proven reliability (and presumably without spending more than necessary?) - so stick with batch injected petrol and your LPG venturi. So - essentially you're after pretty much the same setup I had. This is a straightforward megasquirt'n'EDIS build, with the addition of the LPG kit. You have two options for switching fuel - either you leave this under the control of the LPG controller (megasquirt thinks it's still running the engine as the hotwire does now). You get rid of the hotwire system and replace it with something easy to diagnose and (relatively) easy to tune, and you have a vastly improved ignition system, but you still have to run a compromise ignition map. Or, you add a table switching input to the meqasquirt, and you can then change the fuel and ignition maps depending which fuel you are running on (the LPG kit I had had an output pin on the connector that indicated when it was running LPG - yours may well have the same). This allows you to tune the ignition map for each fuel (LPG likes a very different map to petrol). You LPG controller is probably not actually using the fuelling signals from the ECU, just disconnecting the injectors and adjusting directly from it's own inputs (just lambda?), so you may be able to remove the LPG wiring from the petrol injectors and disable them by switching to an empty fuel map in the megasquirt. The latter is what I should have been running on my Range Rover - but I should caveat this by saying that I didn't get the table switching working. I wired it incorrectly and I think fried the input on the megasquirt so it wouldn't switch, and at the time I sold the car hadn't sorted this out. However, I had tested it by switching tables from a laptop while someone else drove the car, and it's well worth it for the separate ignition maps. As I couldn't switch automatically I still had the LPG kit disabling the injectors. The two biggest benefits I saw with the system (even in the compromised form I was running it) were: Easy diagnosis - I fitted the megasquirt because I had problems with the hotwire system that I couldn't get to the bottom of (lambda sensor issues that I couldn't trace). As soon as I got the megasquirt up and running I could see on the live sensor output on the laptop that one of the lambda sensors was dropping in and out - turned out I had an internally broken wire that only lost connectivity with the vibration of a the engine running. Easy fix once I'd found it! Decent ignition - can't understate this one. In terms of every day use, the EDIS ignition was far and away the biggest improvement. Always a nice fat spark no matter what conditions. Even in limp home mode without a signal from the megasquirt (the EDIS will switch to fixed 10o advance in this case) the engine ran far better than it ever had on the distributor. I know the standard ignition system is notoriously feeble, but it was still a surprise just how much it strangled the engine.