vougese39

the problem is there are no good running s/h units out there if you want to fit a older engine you will need to fit the front cover another cam and crank sensor to and its a lot of work just for a temp job

i am running a d2 with 300+ bhp on the standard ecu with no major issues and achiving 25+mpg if it is a uk car you cannot remove the cats as you will need them for the mot.

is it the flasher or a actual display fett? as for the oil 20/50 i have found to be slightly too thick i use a **** oil 15/40 mineral as it is not so thick and can effect the mpg slightly too

i have used a guy in newark very good take the whole motor to him and he does the lot

did you split the engine from the auto box? if you did did you ensure the torque convertor was pushed back? if no is applicable to the above then oil level is one start the car when cold move though the gears then pull dip stick out and check level top up with dextron 2 atf will be fine. you may need to reset the base idle which is causing the idle fault

the base idle should be 520+/- 20 rpm with a hot engine and no load on it! still think it is the basics that are way out if you want me to come and have a fiddle contact me cheers stuart

i had a set of ebc green stuf pads with tarox 40 groove discs the pads lasted 9,000 miles but as they wore they became a harder and caused sqealing and mild judder replaced the pads and al is fine

or the other option is take a d2 strip it down and fit the range rover pannels to it and have a td5/v8 d2range rover?

base idle, air leak faulty, afm

as for the problem you have it sounds like the basics have been unset so start with checking the timing and once running reset the base idle even a under tunned poorly set ecu should be able to be started then tunned to run. major concern here is the extreme tuning to the 3.5 all the work done to the heads and it still has a major bore shrouding problem so a lot of your money has been for nought! running a 3.5 with a 3.9 ecu will not cause any major problems as the hotwire will adpt to the less air entering the engine and fuel accordingly. did you have a road speed transducer fitted when you fitted the hotire injection system? have you a manual resister in the loom so the ecu knows it is a manual? what faults have you got in the injection ecu?

yes they do as they are made by omitec who make the testbook for land rover it is a very good tool does have some limitations

the other reason for this fault is due to the failure of the pump it has sent swarf down the fuel lines and contaminated the fuel system when you replace the sensor check the rail for small shiny pices of metal if you have these then it will need a fuel system replaing and also the injector too

if you are looking at getting a diagnostic tool apart from testbook £7K which is what i have the for the home mechanic i would get the hawk eye as it is made by omitec who made testbook for land rover it does not have all the functuality that testbook has but work well. i did offer diag training last year and did two courses to help teach people to use thir kit and understand faults and sensor outputs

at a guess low fuel pressure, or the amp on the dissy or worn out cap leads and rotor arm

if the lambda sensors are faulty then it will cause failure of the catalytic convertors then it is very expensive. also it could bore wash the engine and require a rebuild