gavferg

anyone fitted the manual injector nozzles to the edc injectors i can find the 366 nozzles but not the 365's

i solved all my sill problems using galvanised 100mm x 60 box section. Just cut the outer sill away completly then I slide the box behind the a and b post bits repairing them as i went. I bought new YRm body mounts i had them galvanised after lots of measuring and checking i then wleded them on to the box then cut all the inner sill away. Finally i put the box section back in and seam welded it to the body floor inside and out. Make sure the carpets out the seamsealer will melt and can catch fire also make sure your have got a good floor to weld too.The end result is Super Solid and all the mud traps are gone at last i would cap both ends and if you put the plastic cover back on using the plastic rivets try to use a silicon sealer to stop water getting in and it should last until the rest melts away. my lastest surprise has been that the roof on my disco only has primer over most of it. try taking out the middle light and have a look all i could see was surface rust no paint at all. Roof liner out and a very thick layer of dinatol applied. i even sorted the headlining by replcing it with a freasher material of ebay. i would now suggest doing this rather than chasing the rust moth a sthe sills rot from the inside out. once the rear cross member look dodgy ill do the same. box section costs washers compared to folded sills and theres less complicated welding. reboot floor dont bother with the reaplacment cross members you can get they rot within years even when well painted. i would use galvanised box section now. and before anyone says: always grind away the galvanising on the welding area or you get a nasty case of welders flue as the zinc oxide is very good for you. ive also been to have bits of rust picked out of my eye with a needle by a doc with awful bad breath. be very careful .

sadly i fell for the sales promise that the lynx diagnostic module could programme parts of the 10as alram module. why do this? because i have ascrap 300tdi suto with all the uk spec alarm options and wiring. i cant complain about the reading of codes for the edc cpu, abs and airbag the live data is fun to watch and record. whats very dissapointing is the lynx just wont read the alarm module correctly in special functions. operating this option is a bit confusing and for me a disastor leading to a completly immobilised car and another £60 to fix . all because of the odd way the 10as special options is setup in the software. On opening the 10as in the sofeware on your laptop it gives you a list of 20 options one after another which can be enabled or disabled using the update choice. Which i did to turn on the hazard flash when locking by key. My major mistake was to assume that on exiting special options the next windows says programme market features.Yes or No was the way to make my choices stick in the alarm cpu. WRONG this is an entirly differnet option that sets a default choice into the alarm that is meant to suit where you live. So my jap spec alarm got reprogrammed to be a uk one. which set the imobliser to ignore opening by key. and nothing would undo this option using thel ynx which it says it can do. So my only option was to send the spare 10as from my scrap uk spec 300tdi auto edc away to be coded to the cpu and to buy to new uk spec fobs: as the jap ones never worked which is why i used the key. luckily the lynx will tell you this. so my warning to all discovery owners is the lynx 10as programming is carp and doesnt work. also dont expact any useful product support for britpart or omnitec the only way to ask for help is by email and if you ask to many questions they stop replying. so absolutly zero for customers services. very much buy this gizmo at your own risk and what did you expect for trying to save on trips to dealers for diagnostics. i feel very let down and this is a flawed peice of kit. secondary to this is issue was the lynx it did show on both 10as cpus that they think the passenger door is open all the time even with the doors shut. none of my door switches have any voltage going through them and the interiors light at the front won't go of automatically and the rears don't work at all. I have swapped the mfu with no change. if this is related i would love to know how to fix it.

Just a comment on solution to an annoying starting problem I've had With cold starting or when the car had been sitting at work all day The car struggled to start with symptoms of air in fuel or poor fuel pressure once running it was fine and mostly started really easy the rest of the day. After Much thinking I realised I had replaced the fuel filter during the week before the problem started. So before replacing the lift pump etc I put a new filter on and made sure the seal surface was clean. Now week later it starts every time. Lesson learned ... Start with the simple stuff first.

I've just got a jap 98 edc disco without an alarm and imobiliser. Sitting next to it is a non working 98 uk spec edc. Does anyone know if it's possible to swap over all the missing alarm modules to the map ones. I'd also like to loose the airbags by swapping the dash and whell over.