GregK

Just for future reference I'm in Birmingham. If I can help I will be happy to help forum member. Just Pm me as I only look in here now and again when I have time. I've been forum member since nearly day one.

As @Peaklander says check the earths as incandescent bulb will need better earth for it to work than LED as it draws more current/power. If you have a white tow socket [12s] this will have reverse pin connection. But there is nothing to say that someone did not use one of the side light pins on your standard 12N tow socket for reverse. [I have seen it done] but this would have to have trailer and the vehicle connected the same way for it to work.

Long shot. Can you remove rear light lenses and check if you have by any chance a wrong bulb fitted [single filament instead of twin] and it back feeds power to the sidelights while braking. [ I have came across a bulb that has twin connectors at bottom of bulb but only 1 filament.] Have you got twin electrics to the tow bar? If so maybe a short inside one of the sockets especially when they get wet. I would also check the wires as they go thru back body in case there is no rubber gromets and insulation has chaffed and shorting out.

Merry Christmas everyone.

I only just bought it with a noisy Bearings . Oil came out nice and clean when I drained it so someone has changed it. Landy stud for a while unused so that might also be why it rusted. Or lack of oil at some point, more likely.

If clamping hoses pases the test and master is ok. Other thing you could try is wedge a brake pedal down and keep it down overnight, hopefully this will shift the airlock and give you a good brake pedal.

I have only done a dash and wiper motor cover on a series 3 [similar dash to 90/110] As long as you use a good quality and high temp spray adhesive you will be ok with 4 way stretch vinyl. Have a search on YT for ''Recovering a very bad Series 3 Land Rover dash''[britannica restorations] that should give you a little idea what to expect, I presume side panels shouldn't be to hard to do as long as they havent got to big indentations, if they have you might have to make some sort of contraption to press the vinyl in to indentation. You see in video what I mean. [Like around vents and screw indentations vinyl will not want to form to easily and will need a helping hand]

They sure seen better days. Oddly there was no spline wear on the input gear or mainshaft.

Just a little update. The noise ended up being a transfer-box input gear bearings. They were worn. Replaced with new bearings and cross drilled input gear in situ and it is a lot quieter. There is faint main shaft bearing noise in a gearbox but its ok for time being. When I get round to stripping second hand box I will replace all bearings and then put it in a landy. Thanks everyone for help and pointing me in a right direction

Yes rebuilding old boxes at my leisure is a plan for the future.

This one doing it while stationary with transfer box in neutral so hand brake and propshafts are not spinning this eliminates props,handbrake and diffs. What I did notice and tested is that while at say 40mph when I select neutral in gearbox and transfer box all goes quiet. This eliminates hand brake and props or axles noise. I think it might be a transfer box what I will do when I get a chance is pull input gear out the transfer case and run it thru gears to see if noise is still there if noise goes away it can only be transfer box. I did buy a second hand lt77 with 300tdi transfer case 1.2 ratio supposedly in good condition so see how it goes when I put that in.

I wish it was that simple ☹️. Hand brake drum was first thing I checked. I also put transfer box in neutral and went up and down the box it was still noisy.

Ok thanks for that. One more he wants around 500 for both so I presume buy it, separate the transfer box and sell it on just to make some money back? Or just refurb my old one. I don't mind spending money on it to get it right.

Thanks Mike for your input. I was hoping it be one or the other . So looks like I have 3 options. Bearing in mind the Landy is 1988 2.5 petrol. 1. Ideally I should rebuild original gearbox and transfer box providing I can find someone reliable to do it locally [I hate gearboxes or should I say smell of gear oil so rather don't want to do it myself if I can help it] 2. Get remanufactured gearbox and transfer box, probably most expensive option. 3. Second hand. [cheapest] Now I have found locally second hand lt77 short box with 300tdi disco transfer box 122 ratio bolted together , seller says both are good units the only thing I'm worried about is that the gears be too tall for the engine. Has anyone got an idea if that will be the case? Which option would be best to go for??

Hi. Can I pick your brains please? I just bought a Lr90 2.5 petrol with noisy gearbox or transfer case or both and can not decide where the noise is coming from [think its the gearbox main shaft.] The noise is metallic similar to drum or disc rubbing on back plate. It comes on at around 20mph and noise increases with speed. In 2,3,4,5 gear coasting or dipping the clutch makes no difference still there but if I put transfer box in neutral while rolling and then press the clutch the noise goes away. Stationary with transfer box in neutral and going up in gears noise is present. Thanks in advance for any input.