dave88sw

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About dave88sw

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  1. There's no issue really, i just hate the thing so much (constant issues with rotor arms and caps) i'd love to throw it in the scrap but it can stay to fill the hole or stubby it as you say. That's my thinking too, i might go down that route if no later manifolds show up, i know someone who has some series manifolds going begging. Thanks
  2. A 300tdi manifold doesn't seem to line up with the 2.25 petrol manifold gasket i have kicking about so unfortunately i think that's a no go. The more i look at the petrol manifold the more i tell myself i'm being stupid, trying to avoid a bit of work with the fuel rail makes so much more work elsewhere i ought to just suck it up and crack on with the petrol manifold. It does seem to lend itself quite well looking at it. Very good point with the vacuum pump, it's unnecessary when the manifold can provide the vacuum with no moving parts. I just thought it would be nice to do away with the redundant distributor altogether haha. I do like the idea of an adaptor to go between manifold and head as it's removable but i think it would be easier to weld in injector bungs from trigger wheels and just put in the work making up the fuel rail. I appreciate the offers of trigger wheels, i'll measure the crank pulley when i get chance and get back to you. I've been looking for a spare inlet manifold for months with no luck on ebay, just posted in the wanted section on here but not holding out much hope. What are peoples thoughts on going back to series manifolds? They're a little smaller and take a smaller exhaust if i were to change back (currently has 2.5" steve parker kit) but they're much more readily available and i'm not sure what benefits the bigger manifolds give (i was certainly disappointed when i changed over to the twin choke webber set up, the gains were barely noticeable). Thanks
  3. I didn't think the 200 had the same mounting pattern? I've seen someone alter a 19j turbo set up to fit a 200tdi and it was a lot of work, the 19j as far as i know does share the same inlet/exhaust ports as a 2.25 petrol. If it does fit, i have a 300tdi manifold here (which is much the same as a 200). Would i not have issues mounting the injectors 45 degrees to the ports though as the intake runners slope down. The servo outlet would be a vacuum pump on a 200 though, although that's an option as i could remove the dizzy and install a 200 vacuum pump meaning i could lose the servo take off all together. I do have a set of 1.8 k series injectors too, when i get to the point of mounting injectors i'll see what i can get hold of that works best, as long as they're readily available i'll be happy. Thanks
  4. Thanks everyone for the replies. I have had a good look over trigger wheels site to see what was available, lots of very useful stuff. My issue with drilling the manifold for injectors was simply that the fuel rail would want to occupy the same space as the throttle body, really it's just me being lazy, hoping to use the extruded section fuel rail that trigger wheels sell but i guess i could shape one up myself to clear. The only other thing was the servo take off would be in the way of number 4 injector but i could redrill that elsewhere. Really i just can't make my mind up between full multipoint, which would involve removing the manifold and thus having the car immobile for a while (its parked on a public road which makes that awkward) or single point that would allow me to make something up to be bolted in place of the carb when i'm ready. Very good points made about V8 injectors, i made an assumption that as the mpg was similar they must be supplying approx the same amount of fuel but as pointed out, there's 8 rather than 4/2. Obviously i could use other injectors but it sounds like the general opinion is that it isn't the best method. I'll keep looking into it
  5. I can see what you're saying, anything i could make up would never be as good as a part made to do the job, however, i'm struggling to find anything suitable. Also a minor detail but a lot of the TBI units appear to take a large flat pancake air filter fitting that wouldnt go in my engine bay, so an adaptor would have to be made for that. There's no argument that would be better but it would be a lot more work and probably cost a fair bit as i'd have to have the adaptors made up. What if i were to put 2 injectors in the adaptor i described before? I can't help but think it would still be a big improvement over the carburettor and it's something i could revisit later on and improve on. Thanks
  6. As you can probably guess from the lack of activity on this thread, nothing ever really happened with this. I got it running on carb and distributor long enough to gain an MOT and then parked it up and never used it. Pointless i know but life kind of got in the way. Anyway, the idea has never left my head and i still want to go ahead with it. Plans have changed multiple times but i have got some parts together. I've got an edis 4 and a coil pack, just need to mount up a trigger wheel and sensor and crack on with the ignition side. Fuel wise, i've looked at loads of different throttle bodies but most are 20+ years old now, probably pretty knackered and possibly a bit over-complex for what i need. Tell me if it's a stupid idea but what if i was to make an adaptor to go between my manifold and a throttle body (literally just a butterfly) removed from a 1.8 freelander (it looks about the right size). In the adaptor i could weld an injector bung to take a single injector taken from a multi point system (possibly V8 as they're plentiful). That would give me my throttle body and injector and i could use an in line pressure reg. It would also mean all the parts are easy to source and i imagine it would be easy to make. Any thoughts or should i just stick to finding a throttle body injection unit? Thanks
  7. Really study the handbook for how to enter the code, you have to be really careful to return the key to the centre after every turn. Otherwise i can only assume you have the wrong code (perhaps its had a bcu change in the past?). When you say not responding to the key, do you mean it won't crank etc or that nothing happens when you press the buttons? If the latter my guess would be the remote receiver in the roof.
  8. My personal preference would be to hold on until a really tidy well looked after 300 turned up. You'll find a really good 300 still commands a higher price than an average td5 and if you can get one you should rustproof it before you spend money on anything else. Rust really will be the biggest thing to contend with. On a 300, you'll have to get on your back and check every inch front to back, at the age they are now, even the chassis' are starting to go on a lot of them. Traditionally the whole body would rot but the chassis would survive. Inner wings, sills, rear wheel arches, boot floors and check for lumps (rust swelling) under the alpine window rubbers. TD5, give a good look over the body but as said they seem to be pretty good for rust. The chassis, i'd start at the rear end and have a look for swelling round the fuel tank (look up alongside the tank and see if the chassis is pushed hard against the tank). This seems to be where the rot starts and if it's bad there you can guarantee the rest won't be far behind. Otherwise it's a personal preference thing but bear in mind, repairs to a TD5 seem to be much more costly, cylinder heads are 4x the price of 300's, wheel bearings similar story and ACE and air suspension add costly complication. On the plus side they do drive a little nicer and if the chassis is good when you buy, it's a lot easier to keep on top of rust when you only have the chassis to contend with and not all the nooks and crannies of the bodywork.
  9. As above, however, as yours is an auto it could be as simple as the start inhibit switch failing (the switch that tells the car if you're in park or neutral to allow starting. Unfortunately it's difficult to test for unless the car is currently playing up. Alternatively when mine had very similar issues (although mines a manual so i could live with it for a while by bump starting when it played up), it was the starter solenoid, i changed the starter and all has been well for 2 years.
  10. Hi, I'm working on a 300tdi 90 at the moment. It had a stereo fitted (i use the term fitted loosely, imagine holder stuck in with mastic and many scotchlocks) but the wiring was awful so i've pulled the whole lot out to start again. Clearly this 90 left the factory without a stereo, now i've studied the wiring diagram (useful but without locations of headers etc, still difficult to fathom out) but i can't work out where i can pick up the permanent live from. The white with orange trace (switched acc live) was there in the centre of the dash (fed by fuse 7 as per manual) but the purple (permanent 12v) feed from fuse 2 is not there. i know i could just run a live to it or even tap into the wire in the back of fuse 2 and run it up the dash but i'd rather do it as per factory install if anyone can tell me where their wire feeds from. Thanks
  11. The only other possibility is a poor connection or bad earth, however, if that were the case i would have expected your old lights not to have worked. I don't know what the regulations are where you are (i'm only guessing you're not in the UK because we call them bulbs rather than globes?) but i think i'm right in saying that here you shouldn't go higher than a 55w bulb. Xenon bulbs claim to offer more light but i find it very difficult to drive with, it's a very white light that offers very little depth perception. Whatever you go for, ensure you have a very good earth, you'd be surprised how much it helps with the light output.
  12. Thanks for the replies. I know there's a crash sensor in the 10AS, it's just unfortunately his thinks a pothole is a full on motorway pile up . Not sure why it should have gotten overly sensitive but he can live with it until we can sort out replacing it. Thanks, i was thinking along those lines (i realise pulling too much load is completely the wrong terminology but didn't know how better to describe it), he did mention some of the doors often fail to lock or lock with a hefty clunk, unfortunately it's a 5 door so there are plenty of door cards to take off if it isn't the drivers door. Thanks for explaining that, makes life a little more difficult but if that's the case, he'll have to source one and get someone to program it for him. Thanks again
  13. Sounds to me like the ballast packs have failed, was it a cheap chinese kit? As the others have said though, it's not really an issue of adjustment, if the reflector housing and lens were not designed for HID, the pattern and spread of light is all wrong.
  14. Just to update this, i popped round to see him last night and had a quick look at it, i thought it was worth a check of the fuses. Number 1 in the lower satellite fuse box had blown which the manual states is for the "anti theft system". Replaced this and it's all working fine. A little bit of research on it would suggest it could be a sticky door actuator that's pulling too much load. I'll look into it further but for the moment he can use the car again. I do think it would be wise to change the 10AS though as the connector looks a bit green, so can anyone tell me if a used unit with a paired fob would work? Thanks
  15. Hi, A friend of mine is having trouble with his EDC disco. For a little while now it would randomly put the hazards on while driving (i assumed the inertia sensor in the 10as unit is a bit sensitive), he's been living with it by unplugging the 10as once the car is started. However, he returned to the car earlier and it no longer reacts to the fob (nor does the central locking work on the key) and therefore won't crank. My thoughts are that the 10AS has given up, but is there anything else to check first? Also, would i be right in thinking that if he could buy a 10AS with a paired working fob it should just be plug and play? I probably shouldn't ask on an open forum but does the immobiliser cut power to anything other than the stop solenoid and starter? If it comes to it i could bypass these and get him on the road while sourcing parts to fix it properly, he would like the central locking to work. Thanks