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dave88sw last won the day on December 31 2014

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About dave88sw

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  1. Don't know if it helps but have you tried searching for pictures of camel trophy discovery's? They were all fitted with internal safety devices cages.
  2. If your Discovery is an 06 it will be a TDV6 and therefore won't have a traditional fuel stop solenoid, it will most likely just stop telling the injectors to fire. It sound to me like you have a corroded earth somewhere, the engine ecu might be earthing via the lighting circuit. It's difficult to say where the fault could be, it's obviously not ideal having the sunroof leaking into the car as parts of the main loom run under the plastic trim on the sills and any connections within that section quickly corrode and fail.
  3. I've never seen one like that, i'd be interested in a picture if you could next time you're under the car :). Mine is a V8 manual with an oil cooler and have the same setup as in the image. Land Rovers are full of weird surprises
  4. As i said in my post above, filler plug is on the right hand side of the box (if sat in drivers seat), about half way up the side, drain plug is below and to the rear of the filler, the big bolt head in this image, borrowed from elsewhere:
  5. I've never come across one without it. Big plug (not sure exactly what size but around about 30mm head) on the drivers side below and to the rear of the filler plug. I guess it's possible yours missed the stage where it should have been drilled?
  6. As said the misfire and original cause of the issue was probably the injector seals. When they go they can put a lot of soot into the fuel system which can gum the pump up, i often take them out and they're black all over. If you can't hear the fuel pump, first of all swap the relay in the fusebox for a known good one (i usually swap it with the wiper relay next to it) to rule that out but you'll probably need a replacement. With everything sorted, before starting, turn the ignition on and pump the throttle pedal all the way to the floor and back up 5 times, this will run a fuel priming cycle, the pump will run on and off and the engine management light will flash, leave it until it finishes the cycle (light stops flashing) and then try and start, they often fire better with the throttle pedal fully depressed but lift off quickly when it starts to prevent it revving too high.
  7. Thanks guys, i really appreciate the advice. I imagine these questions probably seem a bit "basic" but in all honesty i have very little experience of proper machine work to any degree of accuracy. Bowie, i'm in Bath and i used to know a couple of decent little engineering works but having tried to phone the ones i knew in recent weeks they all seem to have gone under. I have a friend whose dad used to own a firm i keep meaning to ask him if he knows of any still going. I think with the fuel rail, i'll buy a hand reamer, they're not particularly expensive and there is an element of wanting to do the job myself, just for my own satisfaction i guess. lo-fi, thanks for the link, i've just registered to view, awaiting acceptance. Thanks again
  8. Thanks for the suggestions so far, i'm hoping to post up some progress soon but the truth is so far i've just been collecting bits to do the job. I have the crank pulley off and have given it and the trigger wheel to my grandad who's going to turn a recess into the rear of the pulley to centre the trigger wheel. I have a couple of questions though which i'd like to get straight before i waste any time or money. As i've said before, the manifolds i have are standard 2.25 petrol series manifolds so the exhaust and inlet bolt together with a hotspot directly below where the carb would have been. This is obviously not required with fuel injection but is it worth going to the effort of trying to get rid of it? I mean, on an engine like this, will it matter if the hotspot is left as is and i just mount the injectors at the port openings and a throttle body where the carb was? I'm going to give the manifold to an engineering firm and get them to fit the injector bungs i've bought with a milling machine, i don't really want to pay out to have that done if it's not a particularly good solution. The other question is, i bought a length of fuel rail extrusion from trigger wheels, obviously i need to make the holes for the injectors. i know they need to be 14mm but my dad voiced concerns that a standard hss drill might not leave a particularly smooth hole, perhaps not good enough as an injector sealing surface. Is he worried about nothing or should i get the holes milled in the extrusion at the same time as the manifold? Thanks for any input
  9. Ok, so i was given some original series petrol manifolds and i've stripped them down, seperated off the inlet manifold and removed everything i dont need. I've bought some fuel rail stock and 4 injector bungs from trigger-wheels and now I need to try and get the bungs welded into the manifold. My issue at the moment is how i'm going to drill the holes at 45 degrees for the bungs, the manifolds are relatively thick and it's obviously quite an angle, i could start straight and carefully angle the drill round but i need them to be fairly accurate. I feel like a pillar drill would just bend/snap the drill. Does anyone have any suggestions? Ideally i'd mill some flats at 45 degrees before drilling but i dont know anyone with a mill. Thanks
  10. I had exactly the same symptoms recently i could have sworn it was fuel. Cause was a delaminating intercooler hose...
  11. There's no issue really, i just hate the thing so much (constant issues with rotor arms and caps) i'd love to throw it in the scrap but it can stay to fill the hole or stubby it as you say. That's my thinking too, i might go down that route if no later manifolds show up, i know someone who has some series manifolds going begging. Thanks
  12. A 300tdi manifold doesn't seem to line up with the 2.25 petrol manifold gasket i have kicking about so unfortunately i think that's a no go. The more i look at the petrol manifold the more i tell myself i'm being stupid, trying to avoid a bit of work with the fuel rail makes so much more work elsewhere i ought to just suck it up and crack on with the petrol manifold. It does seem to lend itself quite well looking at it. Very good point with the vacuum pump, it's unnecessary when the manifold can provide the vacuum with no moving parts. I just thought it would be nice to do away with the redundant distributor altogether haha. I do like the idea of an adaptor to go between manifold and head as it's removable but i think it would be easier to weld in injector bungs from trigger wheels and just put in the work making up the fuel rail. I appreciate the offers of trigger wheels, i'll measure the crank pulley when i get chance and get back to you. I've been looking for a spare inlet manifold for months with no luck on ebay, just posted in the wanted section on here but not holding out much hope. What are peoples thoughts on going back to series manifolds? They're a little smaller and take a smaller exhaust if i were to change back (currently has 2.5" steve parker kit) but they're much more readily available and i'm not sure what benefits the bigger manifolds give (i was certainly disappointed when i changed over to the twin choke webber set up, the gains were barely noticeable). Thanks
  13. I didn't think the 200 had the same mounting pattern? I've seen someone alter a 19j turbo set up to fit a 200tdi and it was a lot of work, the 19j as far as i know does share the same inlet/exhaust ports as a 2.25 petrol. If it does fit, i have a 300tdi manifold here (which is much the same as a 200). Would i not have issues mounting the injectors 45 degrees to the ports though as the intake runners slope down. The servo outlet would be a vacuum pump on a 200 though, although that's an option as i could remove the dizzy and install a 200 vacuum pump meaning i could lose the servo take off all together. I do have a set of 1.8 k series injectors too, when i get to the point of mounting injectors i'll see what i can get hold of that works best, as long as they're readily available i'll be happy. Thanks
  14. Thanks everyone for the replies. I have had a good look over trigger wheels site to see what was available, lots of very useful stuff. My issue with drilling the manifold for injectors was simply that the fuel rail would want to occupy the same space as the throttle body, really it's just me being lazy, hoping to use the extruded section fuel rail that trigger wheels sell but i guess i could shape one up myself to clear. The only other thing was the servo take off would be in the way of number 4 injector but i could redrill that elsewhere. Really i just can't make my mind up between full multipoint, which would involve removing the manifold and thus having the car immobile for a while (its parked on a public road which makes that awkward) or single point that would allow me to make something up to be bolted in place of the carb when i'm ready. Very good points made about V8 injectors, i made an assumption that as the mpg was similar they must be supplying approx the same amount of fuel but as pointed out, there's 8 rather than 4/2. Obviously i could use other injectors but it sounds like the general opinion is that it isn't the best method. I'll keep looking into it
  15. I can see what you're saying, anything i could make up would never be as good as a part made to do the job, however, i'm struggling to find anything suitable. Also a minor detail but a lot of the TBI units appear to take a large flat pancake air filter fitting that wouldnt go in my engine bay, so an adaptor would have to be made for that. There's no argument that would be better but it would be a lot more work and probably cost a fair bit as i'd have to have the adaptors made up. What if i were to put 2 injectors in the adaptor i described before? I can't help but think it would still be a big improvement over the carburettor and it's something i could revisit later on and improve on. Thanks