Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About lo-fi

  • Rank
  1. I think the diesel manifolds have a connection for the exhaust of the vacuum pump, which can of course be used as a takeoff for vacuum when in petrol configuration. Don't forget that the only reason you have a vacuum pump on a diesel is because there's no throttle plate, and hence no real manifold to speak of. I believe they're interchangeable with a little fettling. Fridge's suggestion of a plate that sits between the manifold and head to mount injectors in certainly has some major merits. I'll even offer to CAD one up for you! Laser or CNC isn't as expensive as you might think.. The only slight sticking point might be that stupid arrangement where the exhaust and inlet manifolds share bolts, but this can be overcome with a little thought. The plate will give you space to angle the injectors, and you can use the carb as a simple throttle butterfly with its fuel supply disconnected. The TPS will need a little thought if going this route, of course. Cheers Ian
  2. Great stuff. How well it stays put depends how you fix it, though. The stuff I've used usually comes with some stainless cable ties, but I've found myself having to order extra - particularly if doing a manifold. For odd places, annoying curves and places you can't put a cable tie, I've often resorted to using stainless dressmaking pins to fix it. Seems to work well. Interesting what you're saying about mixture change, Missingsid. Which way did it change? I'm about to do this on my carb 3.9 and have the luxury of a standalone wideband O2 sensor, so it'll be interesting to compare.
  3. Lol. Yep, 100mm might be a bit much Nice finds, Bowie! I forget the 200 manifold bolts up to older engines. Definitely a good option. Interested to see how this turns out.
  4. Nice idea.. The 2.5 diesel inlet manifold looks the best option IMHO. Make up some little Ali spigots for the injectors to go in, which will seat nicely on top of the intake runners, get your mate to weld them on, then drill and finish machine to suit. You can do the fuel rail with some extrusion with holes drilled to suit your spacing. Add a fuel pressure regulator and you've got that part nailed. The little regulator from a Toyota 4AGE would be perfect here. It bolts on, and regulates the return. Simple! For the throttle plate, try something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262760495140 A little Ali plate made up with holes mount that to, then welded to the inlet of the manifold will get you sorted there. You could have it running in no time
  5. Yep, sounds like a neat install. And do post some pics
  6. Jobs for my 109: Finish fitting the Eberspacher (there will be a write up). Put some insulation on the sides/floor Redo the exhaust in 3" stainless. 'Cos flames. Innit. Get to Leafers at T'Pit this year. Do a little laning in the summer. Figure out the conundrum I caused by mounting the V8 high and forwards, meaning drive to a capstan isn't possible from the crank nose. Rebuild the noisy LT85 General jobs: Overhaul my spare axles, steering box & relay, gearbox/transfer boxes (plus a million other bits) ready for finding a knackered 88 to restore. Build a trailer to house mobile workshop type stuff. Finish my jet engine (turboshaft). Purely for giggles, noise and flames. And to fit in a lawn mower maybe. If you want a natter and some encouragement for the 109, Fridge, it appears I'm just down the road from you. Was reading your ambulance thread, and realized you're local!
  7. Sounds like you've been to Mongkok, so try Golden or Wan Chai computer centers. Or, if you really want something mind blowing and have the entire day to kill, take the metro up to Shenzhen. It's a crazy place - an engineers dream... Street traders selling steel, even! You won't believe the prices, and you can get just about anything you could possibly want in the markets. Huaqiangbei electronics market might be a good place to start, but there are countless others. And if you want a laugh, go and see the Minsk. The rotting hulk of a cold war era Russian aircraft carrier turned into a "tourist attraction" in the middle of an industrial town is quite a sight! Just don't try and find the engine room unless you want to be chased back up the stairs by an angry Chinese man with an assault rifle... EDIT: sadly, they've moved this. A shame!
  8. What carb are you running? My twin strombergs are a devil for this, and run rich when the under bonnet temperature gets above a certain point. I've come to the conclusion a little fan to move some air over them when not moving is about the only way to deal with it. I'm running an electric fuel pump and regulator - it doesn't make any difference.
  9. All the Tesla models are fast. Even their mass market model 3 base model will be sub 6 seconds to 60. The fastest model S is actually limited by the maximum battery discharge rate, not the power the motor can handle. 970hp, if I remember correctly. "at Tesla, we don't make slow cars" - Elon Musk Glad to see some enlightened conversation continuing on this subject - it's something I've considered myself, much as I'm actually in the queue to buy a model 3 I've often wondered how much a motor/inverter/diff pack from Tesla would cost. They've been pretty good about sharing parents with other firms to encourage EV production, but I've yet to find out if they're hobbyist friendly. Might be interesting to find out. If anyone is interested, they have a model S chassis at the dealership in London. It's a metal with of art, and you'll be gobsmacked by how small that 300hp motor is. Barely bigger than a large starter motor. Other avenues... Scrapped Prius? Though low power. As simonr points out, fork lift motors can be quite effective: http://www.currentracing.co.uk/Blackcurrent/bc3.php
  10. I've got an ancient Arboga industrial pillar drill I slapped a single phase motor on years ago, and wouldn't swap it for anything modern (non industrial) if you paid me. Honestly, the thing is literally carved out of the solid. The modern hobby machines are, shall we say, flimsy by comparison. A nice sturdy machine is worth far more than a few hundred extra claimed watts and a bit of chrome.
  11. Does sound like some kind of oil to water gallery failure. Oil pressure will be higher than the cooling system pressure, so it could trickle in. Unless you're running some kind of water cooled oil cooler, it's difficult to see how oil might get in the cooling system otherwise. Pull the head and look? They're simple creatures! You can make a decent pressure tester out of a spare radiator cap and a bicycle pump, though.
  12. Yes, you'll need to check the timing. 4 wire lambda will be narrow band. Has your ECU come pre-configured for your intended application? Don't worry, it's not rocket science once you get your head around the terminology
  13. That'll be the problem Leave it be, it might manage to get the drivers. Post back if not and I'll see what I can do. Do you have the cd that came with the converter handy?
  14. It'll be your USB to serial adaptor. Do you know how to check in device manager on the computer to see whether the drivers are installed correctly and what number it's been given? If not, go into control panel, administration tools, computer management and you'll find Device Manager. In there, you'll find "Ports (com and lpt)". What do you have listed? If you can't find that, do you have anything listed in "unknown devices"?