Cchase

How does one tighten the castellated nut that secures the outer end of the half shaft, and to what torque? I have made a tool to spin the nut on, but the halfshaft spins when I try to tighten it. Do I need to push in the locking ring on the hub at the same time? I have a piece of tubing that I can use to push this ring in with as I tighten the nut. The truck is a 1983 Series 3 109. Thanks

I posted a follow up to this in the Fabrication section.

I realize that this is old hat to many of you, but I am a visual learner; I learn better from seeing something than from reading about it. As I rebuild the front axles on The Tramp I investigated how the Railko bush at the top of the swivel gets oil. Perhaps I am overthinking the issue, but relying on oil splashing upwards through a small hole seems to be a bit of a stretch. The Tramp also has locking hubs so I want to make sure that I know that the bushing is getting lubrication. Some people use grease/zerk fittings. While watching one of Steamwally's excellent You Tube videos, he talked about using an oil cup cap to keep the bush wet. I was able to find the fittings on amazon and a local machine shop drilled and threaded an M10 hole with a 3/32 extension to a depth of 42mm from the top of the pin and then a lateral exit to the side. Here are some photos to illustrate what was done. Cheers, C

And... Does anyone use these? M10 M14 M16 Metric Male Thread Brass Grease Oil Cup Lubrication Oiler For Machine Tool - (Thread Specification: M10x1-3ml) Brand: Tomeco https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Grease-M10x1-Thread-Machine/dp/B09PBY4GR3/ref=sr_1_6?crid=27CIOSOYPJ73Q&keywords=M10+M14+M16+Metric+Male+Thread+Brass+Grease+Oil+Cup+Lubrication+Oiler+For+Machine+Tool+-+(Thread+Specification%3A+M10x1-3ml)+Brand%3A+Tomeco&qid=1673555437&sprefix=m10+m14+m16+metric+male+thread+brass+grease+oil+cup+lubrication+oiler+for+machine+tool+-+thread+specification+m10x1-3ml+brand+tomeco%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-6

Good afternoon, At risk of overthinking a problem, I have seen/read about people drilling into the upper swivel assembly (and then at 90`) and adding a grease nipple, to enable lubing of the Railko bushing. Is this common? Secondly, If the spinning of the U-joint is supposed to splash oil into the hole on the bushing to provide lube, then why not slightly enlarge the hole in the bottom of the bushing and thrust washer? Obviously not so big a hole so as to weaken the bushing, but maybe to 1/4" or so. Waiting for parts allows the mind to wander... Thanks.

Hey Folks, I have a 5 bearing 2.25 gas engine in my Series 3 109". This is the carb that is on it. It has no branding so is probably an after market unit. What sort of carb is it? Apologies for the choke cable being in the photos. Thanks, Coln

The 'Green Bible' does not say to renew the flywheel bolts for a five main 2.25L engine, but I have seen it stated in forums. Is this necessary, or can the old bolts be used with the appropriate thread lock? Thanks, C

I have the front of my 109" apart for suspension/swivel refurbishment and disc brake kit addition and I am into the 'might as well since I am in there' stuff. The two ball joints on the steering from the steering box to the relay are a bit notchy so need replacing. Is there room to fit ball joints with grease fittings or will the nipples get in the way. (Insert naughty comment here if you need to!) Thanks, Colin

doesn't that thin the wall of the piece in the frame? C

...Except maybe installing the new ones. Any tips? I have been using a long bolt with washers, but keeping the bushing square is the issue. C

Is there a job more hateful than removing the old chassis bushes? C

22 pounds each on John Craddock! Mone are rebuildable. Just need the tabs refreshed. Cheers, Colin

Front dumb iron and shackle from rear of front spring. So I guess I could go shorter shackle on the back and upper hole on the front if I wanted to delete the spacers. Would that be a step backward? Thanks.

These spacers are on my series 3 109" frame to hold the bump stops. Are they a specific item for military frames or a regular item on 109 frames? Are they necessary if they are not on regular 109 frames? Thanks, Colin

Sooo... The front dampers were damaged in the accident, and were the Pro Comp units that Rocky Mountain sold with their parabolic springs. I need to get something before I can drive the vehicle. I have been in touch with RM and these dampers are no longer available. Summit Racing accepted the part number, but has none in stock and in any case RM said that these are now made in Mexico and the quality had become suspect. What do you recommend for a suitable damper for the truck at least for the front? I used the term 'One Ton' as it was a choice in the Paddock or John Craddock site. Thanks