Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Kevm last won the day on November 6 2016

Kevm had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Kevm

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

233 profile views
  1. How often do they break and how many LR drivers have been beaten to death?
  2. I think the moral of this story is - when you take things apart put it back together loosely till you are ready to fix it.
  3. Both of mine are fitted with sliders to axles and I have never had a problem with them.
  4. That's the thing about Land rovers if you fix one leak it will just come out somewhere else, I have a big bit of old carpet under the parking spot in my garage it's been there a couple of years so maybe time to find a new bit of old carpet.
  5. Don't think there are any surprises under that plate, I believe you remove the plate then screw the centre bolt back in to lock the pump for timing. My guess would be an o ring as well, should be easy enough to get another o ring but try and get a viton one not buna as it will stand up to diesel better. Probably be difficult to find part #s for it as they don't usually want people messing with bits of the pump, just sell you a new pump.
  6. Yeah, what Bowie said, give it a rub with a file and wire brush, squirt of WD40, clean it up stick it together.
  7. Presumably you cannot drive it at the moment so you have nothing to lose by taking the pipe off and inspecting the fitting threads, if they are damaged you either have to try and restore them with a needle file or you get a new fitting, I would think you need to contact a local fuel injection specialist for that but you should be able to change it without taking the pump off. First step take the pipe off and have a look.
  8. As Mo says above but have a good look at the threads on the pump fitting as if they are damaged you will damage the threads on your new pipe and it will still leak..
  9. As long as the wear isn't a recess in the arm as then you won't be able to get an accurate feeler gauge setting.
  10. So what you going to do, get another one and try again? don't suppose you can do anything else.
  11. Still don't understand why the old solenoid is out and new one in, the spring should push the piston back out to the engine stop position why hasn't it popped back out in the photo. Presumably it seats onto a shoulder with the o ring, so should not be overtightened. As Tim says it could be the wrong solenoid as the ends do look a different length but there must be something sharp inside the pump to be tearing up the rubber tip. Have a good look inside with a torch.
  12. If you apply 12v to it which way does it go - because it looks like one is in and one is out? Also what is inside the pump that the rubber bit bears on does it have a sharp edge? Where have the rubber chunks gone? inside the pump?
  13. Can someone explain it to me as well, I have the 2.5na (power and torque monster) don't know how old the clutch is but doesn't seem like it is going to need a new one anytime soon. But the important thing is what is the price difference between a standard Valeo clutch and a HD. one?
  14. I turned and tapped an alloy bush then glued it in with JB weld, perfect.
  15. There must be one sat on a shelf somewhere, you just have to find it. If you can't find one then find a blacksmith who can make you one, it's really only a ten minute job to make one. But you will need to measure up where it fits - idealy you should measure another one or maybe bend one out of a bit of thick wire to make sure you have the right size and use that as a pattern, threaded rod is no good get some EN8 rod off Eblag but you need to heat the bends cherry red to get nice bends.