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Everything posted by Kevm

  1. How often do they break and how many LR drivers have been beaten to death?
  2. I think the moral of this story is - when you take things apart put it back together loosely till you are ready to fix it.
  3. Both of mine are fitted with sliders to axles and I have never had a problem with them.
  4. That's the thing about Land rovers if you fix one leak it will just come out somewhere else, I have a big bit of old carpet under the parking spot in my garage it's been there a couple of years so maybe time to find a new bit of old carpet.
  5. Don't think there are any surprises under that plate, I believe you remove the plate then screw the centre bolt back in to lock the pump for timing. My guess would be an o ring as well, should be easy enough to get another o ring but try and get a viton one not buna as it will stand up to diesel better. Probably be difficult to find part #s for it as they don't usually want people messing with bits of the pump, just sell you a new pump.
  6. Yeah, what Bowie said, give it a rub with a file and wire brush, squirt of WD40, clean it up stick it together.
  7. Presumably you cannot drive it at the moment so you have nothing to lose by taking the pipe off and inspecting the fitting threads, if they are damaged you either have to try and restore them with a needle file or you get a new fitting, I would think you need to contact a local fuel injection specialist for that but you should be able to change it without taking the pump off. First step take the pipe off and have a look.
  8. As Mo says above but have a good look at the threads on the pump fitting as if they are damaged you will damage the threads on your new pipe and it will still leak..
  9. As long as the wear isn't a recess in the arm as then you won't be able to get an accurate feeler gauge setting.
  10. So what you going to do, get another one and try again? don't suppose you can do anything else.
  11. Still don't understand why the old solenoid is out and new one in, the spring should push the piston back out to the engine stop position why hasn't it popped back out in the photo. Presumably it seats onto a shoulder with the o ring, so should not be overtightened. As Tim says it could be the wrong solenoid as the ends do look a different length but there must be something sharp inside the pump to be tearing up the rubber tip. Have a good look inside with a torch.
  12. If you apply 12v to it which way does it go - because it looks like one is in and one is out? Also what is inside the pump that the rubber bit bears on does it have a sharp edge? Where have the rubber chunks gone? inside the pump?
  13. Can someone explain it to me as well, I have the 2.5na (power and torque monster) don't know how old the clutch is but doesn't seem like it is going to need a new one anytime soon. But the important thing is what is the price difference between a standard Valeo clutch and a HD. one?
  14. I turned and tapped an alloy bush then glued it in with JB weld, perfect.
  15. There must be one sat on a shelf somewhere, you just have to find it. If you can't find one then find a blacksmith who can make you one, it's really only a ten minute job to make one. But you will need to measure up where it fits - idealy you should measure another one or maybe bend one out of a bit of thick wire to make sure you have the right size and use that as a pattern, threaded rod is no good get some EN8 rod off Eblag but you need to heat the bends cherry red to get nice bends.
  16. Yeah, you probably just want her sat in the back, with the knife - be enough to scare anyone away.
  17. I have been thinking about it and came to the conclusion that, that is what it's like. The tolerances on the seat pockets and injector must have to be fairly good so it seals on both washers at the same time - I know there is a bit of "squish" on the dome and on the copper but even so. Regards, Kev
  18. Why don't you just get a big socket to fit the crank pulley nut and then you can turn it slowly by hand. Have you ordered injector washers yet? Mine arrived but not sure they are right yet. Kev
  19. Ok. I received my washers this morn (hotshotted straight from Britpart) but the dome washer is way smaller than I expected and fits inside the copper washer. Surely if I try and fit them, then the dome washer is going to go through the hole in the head and end up rattling about inside the "hotspot" I maybe just confused but I can't see how it will work, have I got the right washers as in the pictures from the manaul they both look the same size?
  20. Well you learn something every day, just checked the Albrit site And sure enough domed steel then a copper on top - I am fairly sure when I did mine I just fitted a copper one, they are not leaking but I wonder if the injector being slightly lower will make any difference. Going to order some and change them.
  21. So do you fit the domed steel then a copper one as well?
  22. As above, exactly what i was thinking about the arm length/spacers there seems to be many different sorts that will fit and I think it comes down to what suits your existing pipes. I fitted a Delphi type one on mine (2.5na) last year, a very easy straight swap.
  23. Well mine was a head gasket kit for a 2.5na and the washers were included.
  24. I got a head gasket kit from them back last summer and yes the spill pipe washers were in the kit, alloy not like original copper but they seal ok. Think it was a payen kit, there seemed to be a few extra gaskets and washers in the kit that I didn't use.
  25. Have you got a multimeter to check voltages etc? what voltage has the battery got? Short across from the main battery incoming connection on the starter to the third small connection, the soleniod trigger connection - make sure it is out of gear first. That should turn the engine over to confirm if the battery is healthy and also the earth side of the battery is ok. If that cranks the engine over ok then from looking at the drawing above the only other way the ign light could get lit is through the diode (G126) so you could try disconnecting the alternator either the main brown cable or the little one and see if that changes anything. It could be as simple as an earth fault or it could be a relay or the engine control module doing funny things.