Roosterrs

Took the diff out and the planet gear pinion has snapped in two. The pin has then ovalised the hole in the planet gear carrier and contacted the crownwheel and caused some damage.

Thanks for the info. Took the plug out of the rear axle and the oil is very black. Havn't dropped the oil yet. I have also noticed there is oil on the offside brake disc shield and it looks like its starting on the nearside one aswell. Vehicle milage is 108000. Thought it might be the bearing, but if the diff is failing, then the root cause is the diff and the rear hubs are secondary. Looking elsewhere I found a video showing a 110 rear diff which showed the driveshafts had worn out. These were the ones with circlips on the end rather than the D2 nut type. Secondly new hubs, I have sern these vary in price from £40 - over £100 each. Where is the best place to get these from? I don't want to buy cheap but if the £40 one and an £80 one are the same make, then I will go for these.

My 2004 D2 TD5 whines when not under load at about around 40 mph and upwards. I think its comeing from the rear diff. I have removed the rear prop and I don't have any movement in the diff pinion. I do have around 30-40 degrees of rotation in the pinion with the rear prop connected. The front prop has hardly any rotation. I have had the rear in the air and the wheels rotate freely and no rocking. Is this amount of rotational movement normal or does it mean the planet gears are worn out and the diff needs replacing. I think the backlash between the pinion and crownwheel feels OK but it is difficult to tell.

Is there a manual for a 2004 TD5 D2? Can't find a land rover one.

Been to look at a TD5 today, 53 plate. Nice car drove well. Only concerns were, 1, rear chassis. A bit flaky but no holes and felt reasonably solid.2, a slight ticking noise at tickover but seemed to be coming from the gearbox/bell housing area. Could hear it sometimes when driving off boost. My dad also has one of these so I called in to listen to see if it had the same noise, and it did. His has 133k on the clock and needs a new dual mass flywheel, so wondering if its this.When the boost came in, the car accelerated well and surprised me. Off boost, very sluggish. Chassis I know is 16 years old so not expecting perfect. Can you get a rear repair section?

Defender has already been sold and would like to replace it.

The only thing putting me off a D3 is the crankshaft snapping. Found a few D2's ar Fredcars in Tewkesbury, a LandRover specialist. Seem to have a nice selection.

Will maintain it myself hence TD5. Mainly road use as I want to replace my old defender. Budget around £5-6k. Just started to look but want something for the winter really.

Looking at Discoverys but can't decide between a Discovery2 with TD5 or a Discovery3 TDV6. Discovery3 has a snappy crankshaft which puts me off. Discovery2 TD5 seems preferable but want a manual rather than auto. Are TD5 autos any good? Any advice gratefully received.

I still have the issue with my 300TDi Defender not starting intermittently. Turn the key and nothing happens. I have recently found that if I take the fusebox cover off and then push on the fuses, I can get it to start. The fuse box does have some corrosion on the drivers side, i.e white powder on the terminals, so I assuming it has got wet at some point.I am not sure if this is the cause of the problem as I suspect it is the alarm spider, but has anyone else had this problem with the fusebox? How difficult is it to replace one? Thanks

No, but disconnected and removed the injectors. Maybe some air in the diesel lines.

Can anyone help me. The rocker shaft snapped on my 300 TDi Defender a couple of weeks ago. Replaced this along with the following items to cylinder 4. New tappets, pushrods, rockers, valves, springs, cotters, top retainers, tappet adjusters, injector, new head gasket, head bolts etc. Was running ok but then today it started to judder and not run properly. I was about 8 miles from home so slowed down to 20-30 mph to get home. On the way it seemed to clear itself and I tentalively increased the speed to 50. Looked under the bonnet and everything looks ok. Had the rocker cover off tonight and it all looks good, everything in its place. Had the turbo inlet off and the turbo spins freely and no side play in the shaft. Started it up again and it seems ok, no strange noises. I don't want to take it out until I have checked a bit more. The only other thing I have done is fill it with diesel and add some wynns injection system cleaner. I was concerned about the cam belt but this was changed about 12000 miles ago. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks in advance for your help.

Starting problem happened again today, luckily at home. Got the multimeter out and connected it to the starter excitor lead. I had 8 volts at ignition switch position 2 and 10 volts at position 3. This isn't twelve volts, but does this rule the spider out and sound like a starter motor problem?

I have been having an intermitant fault on my 1997 300 TDi Defender 90. In the past 6 months it has failed to start about 6 times. Turn the key and nothing happens. This usually occurs after a long run so I was thinking it may be a heat issue. Today it happened again and after 45 minutes to let it cool down it still wouldn't start. In the end I bump started it and it has been fine ever since. I connected my volt meter up to the starter exciter wire and get 8.8 volts at position 2 and then around 9.75 volts when the relay clicks, when I turn the key to the start positon I get about 11.5volts. The vehicle is starting fine again though. Vehicle has done 125K miles. I am thinking its the spider or maybe the starter motor. Spider seems favourite but just wondering if the starter is going and hitting a sweet spot each time it wont start. Does the AMR4956 bypass wire fit a defender? Any ideas anybody?

It was head gasket. Put washing up liquid at back of head and started bubbling. Removed head and it is blowing out the back. Checked head flatness with parallel and feeler blade/dti. Head is very flat and can't measure a 0.001". Think it needs a very light min to clean to remove any imperfections.

Genuine Wabco pump fitted. Put my hand at back of cylinder head and can't feel any blowing.

It does sound as though its at the back of the bulkhead. Vacuum pump replaced a year ago. Doesn't make a noise at tickover only on boost. Can you upload a video on this site?

My Defender is a P plate 300TDi 90 CSW. 120,000 miles. It has recently started to make a ticking noise when accelerating and today it has been more noticeable. It seems to be when it comes onto boost. I can lift the throttle and it stops and then reapply and it will start again. So I think the temperature makes it worse as some days it doesn't make the noise or is a lot less noticeable. Trawling the net, it could be head gasket, valve top retainers, exhaust gasket, but I would of thought it would make the noise all the time if it was. The vehicle seems to run OK otherwise. As it seems to be temp and boost related, could it be diesel knock? Any info gratefully received.

Does anyone know the part number of the large O ring that goes between the lid and main housing of a 300 TDI air filter on a Defender. Mines broke. I can't see it in any of the parts lists. Thanks.

The nut has been removed from my 1995 300tdi Defender 90 steering drop arm that holds it to the steering box. There appears to be 2 different washers on Allbrit.de. A 48mm and 60mm washer. Anyone know which one I should fit?

There isn't 2 types of slave cylinder is there? I am wondering if the slave is bottoming out before pushing on the diaphram? I can move the release lever backwards and forwards in the housing and there is no resistance as though the release bearing isn't there.

Checked the adjustment and its as per the book. Pedal still rock solid. Fluid flowing through pipe and out of bleed on slave so don't think its the hose. Ruled out the external issues so must be inside the clutch housing.