sheathy

Hi folks. I've never had any bother with my 2004 Defender... until last week. I went to drive it, started fine, pulled off the drive, stalled then on restart it sounded incredibly rough, threw out clouds of grey smoke and then cut out. Tried again and same result. Plugged in my nanocom and got the following: 16.2 High speed crank 20.2 Turbocharger overboosting 28.1 injector 1 peak charge short 28.2 injector 2 peak charge short 28.3 injector 3 peak charge short 28.4 injector 4 peak charge short 28.5 injector 5 peak charge short 31.1 injector 1 open circuit detected Checked the red ecu plug and sure enough it was full of oil. Changed the injector harness and gave the plug a very thorough cleaning with contact cleaner. Cleared the fault codes and went to start her again. This time getting the codes: 28.1 injector 1 peak charge short 28.2 injector 2 peak charge short 28.3 injector 3 peak charge short 28.4 injector 4 peak charge short 28.5 injector 5 peak charge short Attached video shows the read out from the injectors when running. Any advice on where to go next would be much appreciated! Thanks a lot. Best , Danny WhatsApp Video 2023-07-09 at 14.34.00.mp4

Hi all, hope everyone is safe and well. My TD5 unfortunately failed the MOT equivalent test here in France yesterday due to exhaust gas opacity. It only narrowly failed (0.3 m-1 across the three run average) and I'm sure if the throttle had been applied smoothly this wouldn't have happened, but anyway I'm looking for simple fixes just to get it passed and would appreciate any input. For info- my truck has the following mods: larger intercooler, silicon pipes, decat, silencer delete, egr blank, stage 2 tune from empire. So far I see my options as being: 1 - Send the ECU back to the tuner in the UK to get the map detuned slightly (pros- likely to fix, and cheap. ; Cons- leaves me with standard map after, chance of getting lost in the mail, 2 weeks or so without truck) 2 - Buy a nanocom. Tuner has agreed to help me load the standard map for the test and then change back (Pros- will be able to switch back and forth myself, engine diagnostics; Cons- £390) 3- Pop the airfilter out for the test (Pros- free; Cons- might not work, could suck carp in) Maybe there is also another option I haven't thought of? Shove a Covid mask in the exhaust? 😂 I'd really appreciate any advice! Thanks!

Hi all, my TD5 has started a slowly leak from exactly that point V8 freak indicated so I will be doing this job soon. I was just wondering if someone could recommend a particular sealant to use? Fox four, did you do this in the end? How did you get on? I was wondering if it was was worth doing the injector seals whilst I was in there as I've heard they are a common failure on the td5. There's no sign of any problem from mine but I wondered if it's prudent to do the job anyway? I've only had the vehicle a few months and don't think it's been done before. Cheers!!

Very interesting thread, thanks for starting it Suffolk Defender. I've recently bought a 2004 TD5 90 (link below) and I'm slowly working my way through service points. Next big one is to do diffs, transfer and gearbox oils. I've read fully synthetic oils are the way forward for the gearbox and will help smooth out the gear changes, was wondering if anyone had a particular recommendation of brand etc? Also any idea of where to buy it? Everything I've found so far is silly expensive. Is EP90 still the best bet for TD5 diffs and transfer box?

OK I can't see a VIN ... Does this picture help? Thanks

Is there an easy way to find the production date of a military vehicle. Trying to find out how old mine is, it's on '95 plates but I'm sure it's much older. Thanks

Yeah i suppose it has, although i think i may have had a bit of an issue before but is much more obvious now

Haven't actually had chance to measure the voltage but the battery was drained when I went to start. However I put the spare in (wasn't fully charged) and drove around for a couple of days with lights on etc yesterday stopped after an hour of driving, was out the car for a few minutes went to start again and it wouldn't even turn over so think it must be the alternator... Put in the other battery (now charged) and started fine.

She is back on the road. I gave in and had a garage take a look at her, turns out the solenoid needed replacing and there were some other issues with the ignition switch wiring. Working well now though- only one small problem, I seem to be getting a battery drain when the car is left over night. It's not a battery issue as the battery is only a couple of months old. Also not the alternator as it's charging up fine. Cheers again for all your help.

I thought it might be useful to give the full story in fact. So here goes. Everything is working fine in the UK before I started my drive over to Geneva, very very difficult to start the old girl unless the plugs were heated, in fact more often than not the battery would die before it started, but 20secs of heating the plugs and it started first turn. Drive to folkstone everything still all good, get off in Calais all still good, drive a further 300km and stop for the night. Next morning I get in and turn the key to plug heat position but no warning light comes on and I have a lot of difficulty starting it but manage in the end and made it to my destination. Was pretty smokey for the last 20km so checked oil level and it had managed to use a lot and was on the min level so I topped up. The next day tried to start it but there was obviously an issue- plug warning light still not coming on and very tough to start. So I started this thread, changed the ignition switch and the light was working, plugs were getting power, plugs are working ex situ at least but still can't start the truck. Had it running once since then but took a long long time but sounded fine when it was up and running. And that brings us to where we are now.

Hi all. Peaklander- i'll drop you a message in a mo, cheers. Western- yes I have 12v on the thick brown cable and it is on position 1. Haven't checked if it drops slightly when the plugs are heating (as suggested it might do above) but I'm getting good voltage to the plugs which I guess rules out a wiring issue from the battery no? Monkie- I agree still something must be wrong with the plugs as when the problem first started if the engine was warm it would restart no problem. Interestingly the bulb lights and the plugs get power when I put the glow plug wire on a different terminal on the ignition switch. But the intended position for the glow plug wire has power when the key is in the hold position so that's strange. Interesting re. plug quality but they always have been fine so I don't understand why that would have changed?

Basically, it's nothing good would you recommend a garage as my next stop? I'm sure that will be nice and cheap... On an unrelated note does anyone have any experience of selling a kidney in Switzerland? Oh, the 12v (was actually 12.6) measured from the battery was with the glow plugs not on just to clarify.

Hi chaps. Rechecked everything today and the results were: Resistance = 1.9-2.8 at for each plug (the meter was mostly stable on 2.8 but was jumping around a bit) Voltage= 12v at the battery, 10.8 v at each plug. So some power is being lost somewhere but not enough to interfere with plug function I would have thought. So what do we think? Cheers

Cheers

Fair cop Peaklander, I had it on the wrong setting- although it's worth noting that I followed the instructions, the person I'm not that keen on. Anyway I'll check everything tomorrow again, including resistance. Thanks for the info monkie, good to see the video. Was wondering if my glowplugs being dry was a good thing so glad I know now.