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kentranger

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  1. hi all only me again (pain in the rear) but just to let you all know the car is still fine and running better than it ever has done. thanks again all
  2. hi again. it started great with no probs. i drove it for about 20 miles to give it a little clear out. got back n tinkered with the timeing and idle and now its fine both gas and fuel. changed the plugs again to ngk's. the plugs that came out was black with soot so ill get that checked in a couple of weeks. thanks again all for your help
  3. well fingers crossed she will start this morning but im sure she will. it has not been running this well for a long time. i have learnt a very big lesson
  4. oh yeah im well happy. new rotor arm and cap did the trick. as soon as i put them on it was ticking over at about 500 revs. adjusted the timeing and tickover again and she is sweet on petrol. loads of power there aswell. on the lpg side of things if i switch over when moveing there is very little difference in performance but on idle, well there is no idle on the gas but not too bothered about that just yet. i would imagine a decent set of plugs will help as i had done a test today on the old plugs and new 1's. the ngk's spark was double that of the champion. i will pick up a set tomorrow and try them. it wont do no harm. BIG BIG THANKS TO ALL OF YOU. i would have scrapped it ages ago i think but you all kept me going in my hour of need
  5. hmmmm didnt realise the photo was that big. i think i need to work on my pooter skilles aswell
  6. hi again nigel. i have emailed you a photo of the position of the rotor arm fingers crossed it will help but it looks to be spot on sorry for the quality but it was done on my phone. mrs wouldnt let me get the camera dirty
  7. i use champion double copper as i heard they were good for the lpg side of things. and at 12 quid including vat for 8 i couldnt complain
  8. ight i have started again lol. firstly i got it running again with no problems. it just fired up after as couple of turns. it was idleing a little high so i turned it down to just under 1000 or what seemed to be about that speed from the rev counter. altough it was idleing again very bad i tried to put a timeing light on it. set the light at 15 to see if i could find the mark and they were no where to be seen. took it up and up and up till i eventually found the mark at 45 - 50. can an engine run at that far out??. i tried unplugging the retard and advanced but that made no difference to it. the timeing light is not a cheepie. i bought it about 4 years ago from mac tools at 110 quid so i know that should be ok. i am completly baffled now. lol i know i am taking the pick up from the number 1 plug but is it possible the timeing is so far out that it is actually fireing 1 piston out?? will it run like that?
  9. well didnt get chance to check anything today as i run out of time and battery power. so i have disconnected it in the hope it will clear the ecu's errors if there are any and its in the hallway on charge. will try again tomorrow.
  10. how do you know that yeah i did replace them one at a time. i have double checked there in the right order and when i took it all apart when doing the head i taped and wrote the number on them. sad i know but i wanted to be sure it would run again.
  11. hmm just recieved all the replys. now im really confused lol. right firstly the lkpg system is the old venturi type. secondly the injector tops seem to have the proper plugs on them from the controler boxes for the lpg. so there is no dodgy wireing as far as i can see. yes i did pull a little hard on the rotor arm and yes it did all fall apart but i managed to get it all back together again and that side seems to be working fine. im going to test fuel pressure again today. it seems to run sweet about 2500 revs but anything below that its lumpy as hell. i can hear a rumble from the engine when its on idle but im nearly 100% sure its the power steering pump so ill disconnect it later and run it up to see if it has made a difference. i must admit it does run a little more even when on gas. also i read that the fuel pump shouldnt kick in till the engine is cranking?? i can hear the pump kick in as soon as the ignition is on and then it cuts out after about 6 seconds. it has not got genuine cap or arm on it either and have recently heard that this does make a very big difference. so ill get another cap and arm from barrets. do the leads matter is there not genuine?
  12. i am taking the timeing light from the lead on the right hand bank looking from the front of the engine back. its the first lead on the right hand side. i also remembered reading on the forum about the tdc marks on the pully wheel being out so i checked it when the head was off and it seems to be spot on. the lpg system i have is voltron. not sure what type it is how would i tell. i had set the timeing at 8 btdc and it seem to idle slightly better but as soon as i put it into gear it just died. no stutter or anything just stop dead.
  13. strangly enough i have had to play with the timeing to get it drivable. seems to be a good spark at the plugs but the ignition timeing needs to be about 25 btdc or the car wont pull away it is very weird and that is either gas or petrol. i think as i said earlier i need to get it tuned for mixture possibly then timeing and see if it makes any difference.
  14. hi again all. well managed to get it all apart. sent heads off to the engine center to be skimmed. i noticed there was signs of bad pitting in the block so i rubbed it with as bit of sandpaper round the affected area to check it out and it seems to be only slightly. so i continued to clean up the block. got the shiney new looking heads back and put it all back together again. its running a little rough with very bad idle. ranging from 650 to 2000 just up and down all the time and then it seems to stabalize for a few mins then starts to hunt again. i have tried as much as possible to checxk for air leaks but there dont seem to be any. the bubbling in the header tank has now stopped and the coolant system is no longet undert pressure so thats 1 big weight off my mind. all i need to do is get the old girl running evenly on idle. it is however very sluggish when on the road aswell so i might take it to a garage to be tuned. i have replaced the plugs yet again and it made no difference.
  15. hello again all. after days of testing i couldnt find much wrong apart from a dodgy injector. so im left scratching my head. just by the off chance of pure frustration i tampered with the ignition timeing a little and it fired up. i could not beleive it. runs well on the gas but has a missfire on petrol. left it running for a while and noticed the cooling system was getting pressurized quite a bit. after letting it cool for a while i took header tank top off and started it up only to find constant bubbles so its now a case of stripping it down and getting the heads off. well started to strip it down when i took the inlet manifold off i noticed a water hold blocked with what looked like a digestive biscuite type stuff. didnt taste it tho to find out lol. got right hand manifold off no probs which i was expecting at least one or two studs to cnap but they didnt. started on the left side and got as far back as the last 4 studs and i gopt 1 rounded off nut on the under side. ( it had to be the 1 i cant get to easily) and thats where i have left it for now. ill go out there in the morning with the hammer and chisel and see if i can sort it out. thanks again for all who have helped. but i feel i have a long way to go yet
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