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Jaroslav

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    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

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  1. I'll see if I can easily turn it upside down. The oil there is pretty dirty, not to mention the fact that I, by mistake, filled it with MTF at some point. I'd like to get a clean start (literally).
  2. Well, with my type of filter it wouldn't be easy as it has holes at the bottom. It needs to be assembled air-tight in place: the bottom, the filter and the top.
  3. I'm puzzled. It seems that the steering box has only a filling plug on the top cover, but no drain plug at the bottom. At least I can't find one. Granted, the shaft to which the steering arm is attached is all covered in oil, so some "natural" leakage may be occurring all the time... Anyway, how do we replace the oil? /Jaroslav
  4. There is no problem. I was able to bleed the system by cranking the engine with the bleeding screw loosened. What bothered me is that I didn't do it by-the-book, which means that I might have succeeded only by dumb luck, and that next time I might not be that lucky. What you're saying confirms that I did the right thing and therefore I'm all prepared for the next time. Thanks for all replies. /Jaroslav
  5. So, you just kept cranking the engine with the starter? But what about the bleeding point? Did you keep it open?
  6. I see... All this doesn't make much sense to me. They say you might have to bleed the system if you run out of fuel, which might happen on the road. Unless you keep keep a toolbox full of sockets and wrenches with you all the time, how the heck you're supposed to loosen the bleeding bolt (and know which one) and also turn the crankshaft on the road? Fuel priming should have been designed in a more user-friendly way. /Jaroslav
  7. Well, would cranking the engine for random intervals get the cam into the right position eventually? Can you turn it manually somehow? /Jaroslav
  8. Hello there, I've just replaced a fuel filter on my N/A Diesel 110. I have a Hayes book that describes a rather bleeding procedure that is supposed to remove air from the fuel system. Well, after trying this and that, I ended up cranking the engine with the starter while keeping the bleeding bolt on top of the fuel filter assembly loose. At the end it worked, after spilling a lot of oil on the floor, but I'm still puzzled why I couldn't do it the proper way using the manual pump. When I pumped the manual fuel pump, there was a feeling that it's not doing anything and that there is no resistance at all. I've pumped probably 500 times. The Hayes book says, that if the manual pump level is up when the engine is stopped then the pump can't be operated. Isn't that stupid? I've tried cranking the engine with the lever up/down, but couldn't see no difference. Is it even supposed to work? The WSM where it describes fuel filter replacement procedure doesn't even mention any bleeding that needs to be done afterwards. Perhaps I just overcomplicated everything and all I needed to do is to replace the filter and then run/crank the engine until it clears itself of the air all by itself? /Jaroslav
  9. To whoever might be watching this thread. Somebody gave me another neat idea: to cut it with a Dremel tool. And, voila, it worked.
  10. Yep, that's it! Using a wrench socket sounds like a neat idea. I will try it right away. Thanks! What's oxy gear and how you can use it? I have an propane torch, but how it's gonna help me? Are you talking about heating till it expands enough to insert a smaller diameter socket? /Jaroslav
  11. I'm stuck... literally. I took apart the steering arm ball joint: removed everything except for the inner ball socket that is stuck inside the housing. The WSM says use a sharp chisel; heat the housing if you have difficulties while removing. Well, the problem is that the socket is pretty worn out, so there is not a lot of edge for the chisel to strike on. Besides, I'm trying to fix the joint while the arm is still attached to the steering gear, so there is no space to swing the hammer. (I couldn't remove the arm because I don't have a 35 socket right now). I guess my question is what is the smartest way to remove the socket? All the dumb ones I've already tried out. /Jaroslav
  12. Last night, when faced with this problem, I loosened the nut a bit and then tightened it again. That seemed to help in reaching the alignment with the required torque.
  13. Hi all, has anybody faced a problem when you try to tighten a castle nut and just as you reach the required torque you find out that the holes don't line up? If you turn it back counterclockwise, you lose the required torque. If you keep turning it clockwise, you risk overtightening it. What do you do? /Jaroslav
  14. Mine squeaks somewhere in the box around the pivot axis on the right side. Covered everything with WD40 - didn't help. Need to find a diagram to see how can I disassemble the damn thing and lube it properly.
  15. It worked like a breeze! It was a very educational experience too. Laying under the vehicle and rocking it with my foot showed how the different part of the read suspension interacted with each other. And BTW, now I know that I need a new a-frame ball joint!
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