calle-fas

I agree with all above. I didn't find it particulary cheap either. Just wanted to highlight all options. If you ask me I don't think they actually do the conversion themselves. It is a brand new site and my guess is they probably sell some other companys solution. I'm not in any way involved with the site, just found it on a Swedish forum the other day.

Found this today. It's a company in northern Sweden that sells a conversion. 6 bolt conversion, but get in touch with them and see. 4-FUN Offroad

Looks really good Jason! If you need a place to stay for a night or so in Sweden I live 30 km northeast of Gothenburg (Göteborg) along E20. Can't offer beds for so many though. Have got a tent with a stove. I'd also recommend a visit on the Swedish Land Rover Club (SLRK) forum. slrk.egetforum.se. You'll find lots of helpful people from all over Sweden there. 11 days is a very tight schedule. The distances are very long. But give it a go and enjoy every part of the journey.

That's a pity Søren. If any of the winches already built gets out for sale I'm interested. PTO not needed. I'm hoping to build one myself but time is, as always, an issue.

If you decide to breath the fumes despite all the good advice you will get a rather heavy headache. Milk is an effective medicine for this.

One thing that's quite common on newer cars here is having the VIN engraved into all windows on the car. This might not help on cars that are stolen to be broken and sold as parts, but replacing all windows will be quite expensive if you plan on giving the vehicle a new identity. I suppose this is a bigger problem here though where the eastern parts of Europe is a bit closer.

To be honest I don't know what went wrong. I guess I'll have to give it another try. I did the swap yesterday. Actually both sides. I let the spacers follow the hub so they were also swapped. Thanks for answering.

Hi guys. Going to switch front hubs between two Td5 Defenders today. Question is: Is the spacer between the wheel bearings matched with the hub or the stub axle? Or maybe the complete assembly? If the latter, which do you think it should follow, stub axle or hub? I am aware of the mod of removing the spacer and replacing the beefy nut with two old ones. I have tried this once without success so went back. Why do this? A while back 4 of the drive member bolts snapped. I was unable to drill them out so I simply turned it and drilled and tapped new holes between the old ones. Problem is I've now come across a set of aluminum rims and they are such a tight fit I can't even use my HD drive members, let alone my redrilled hub.

I like that for one reason. I usually change tires on site before offroading. It seems a lot easier than using the Hi-Lift.

That's why I'm considering a go with the plasma on the HCPU. Have to convince SWMBO first, which might be a lot harder than actually rebuilding the car. One of my close friends has a lifted and ARB'd autobox Jimny. Lovely car, and before I got them lockers and Silverstone tires we used to be quite equal over all. Now he struggles to keep up unless it gets narrow. Above is another league though.

I've encountered this problem too.

Not sure what they are called in English but boat people use something I would translate as a "deck socket". I've only seen low current ones so I haven't used them myself, but for your purpose I suppose they would do just fine.

ROTFL!

That is crazy Søren! Seemed a bit heavy/sluggish at the start, but I guess that was down to wire tensioning since it suddenly went like a rocket up the hill... How much does wire and wheel speed differ on this car, and what ratio is the diff?