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rrdude

Getting Comfortable
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  • Location
    Syd, Aus

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    P38A
  1. Drat, 265quid down to drain...well almost :-(
  2. Thanks Paul, Have had this rig from the year dot and never seen this previously. I do normally change batteries about once a year and never see this to start with. Have checked and cleaned both boards etc. I ensure new batteries are cleaned and carefully installed with no contaminants (for example from oily hands) getting on them. The curious thing is both keys exhibit this same behaviour now. Have always used keys in rotation as best as I can to minimise risk (after I got locked out years ago). However one can never take a chance with these contraptions eh' :-) The car also has a new battery (with greater capacity too), fully charged with good ground etc. Would be nice to know whats going on :-) btw. Whats the go with getting a new key these days? Is the, ahem "st$$$er the only source? I would like to source a new one so that I can have a 'play' with the old ones. For example the silly contact 'splice' on the cap/cover needs improving (the one that pushed down on the positive side). How difficult would have been to make that part a little longer and more substantial and stable?
  3. Rebuild it and keep it as a spare. Get a unit designed to fill tyres etc :-)
  4. Interesting issue with the display/cluster reporting "KEY BATTERY LOW" message on an early (1995) GEMS P38A Range Rover However when checking the batteries in the key fob they both show. 3.2v to 3.26 volts each. Both the remotes are showing this which leads me to believe this is something more. Never seen this before, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
  5. Check the ground (as that can corrode) and also carefully check the bottom of the fusebox. Wires can get kinda brittle too.
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