fisha

have a look here : http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/transervice4.html

Ditto . . . theres the odd wee noise from mine which i wonder about sometimes.

It is a shame that something like a liner issue has came to bite you. Considering that you've obvious spent so much time and effort to go to these lengths, i'm a little unsure why you didn't go to the bother of getting top-hat liners fitted to the block from the outset??? The liners are a known issue . . . you admit yourself you even tried to look for it being present . . . plus you were looking to moderately push the engine performance ... to me it just seems that it should have been a must-have from the beginning.

Apparently Td6 and alloys larger than 18" sometimes dont mix on the new Rangie . . . . its the principle reason the Td6 wasn't offered with anything bigger than 18" alloys out of the factory ( i think ) Its to do with harmonics of the engine vibration and the suspension+wheels setup. However, i've also read that in some cases the engine idle speed has been set from the factory a little too low and this can cause excess vibrations at standstill / lower speeds. This can cause issues with erratic idles and vibrations when the AC compressor switches on and off ( and places extra demand on the engine ). At lower idle revs, diesels can induce hefty vibrations, and the ECU's work hard to try and apply the correct amount of fuel to keep that low speed rpm . . .so the engine may be revving at a steady speed, but at that speed its vibrating ( if that makes sense ) . . . those vibrations very quickly balance and smooth out at revs higher than idle. Do the vibrations disappear if you have the engine revving . . . Suppose idle is at 700rpm and its vibrating . . . does it stop if you raise the revs to 750rpm by pressing the pedal ever so slightly? If so, then you could question the dealer about checking the base idle speed setting of the vehicle. A reset could possibly address this issue.

i shouldn't be because the floats in the bottom of the carbs should be blocking off the supply and any excess pumped by the pump should be flowed back to the tank. so, check your floats and check that petrol is flowing back to the tank ( you should be able to dribble back into the tank through the filler ) failing that, the pump aint pumping enough ( despite what you think ) and so it slowly runs down the level in the float chamber and stalls.

Hmmm . . . i dont know . . . . i wouldn't say it would be drop in fit affair. The existing gearbox has a computer which talks to the BeCM ( the main car computer ) and also the engine ECU directly. I expect that you would be able to disassociate the gearbox <> engine link without too much fuss, but i'm not sure how happy the BeCM would be about not having a gearbox ECU to talk to. They talk to each other about current speed, throttle position, current gear, engine timing retard for for gear change etc etc etc. You also got the hi-low switch controlled by the auto gear lever . . . so you'd have to factor that in too. There were some v8 manuals *i think* , so maybe if you looked at that route you may find some more info specific to the V8's but a first port of call would be to look at how the diesel manual works and interfaced with the other systems. Personally . . . for the sake of a whole lot less hassle, can you not just drop in another re-con box from ashcrofts or the like and be done? What is it that you dont like about the auto?

. . . you can just go back and edit your original post . . . .

bit if a set back at the moment. the press currently looks a little like this - although theres a fair bit been done and a fair bit yet to do yet since this pic was taken... however, having read up more on whats needed, it transpires that the P38's main bushes need a special drift which compresses the outer diameter of the bush so that it fits into the arm hole. the bush is physically bigger than the hole and its squeezed down to fit inside it ... which explains why its plastic outers. So i'm humming and hawing about what to do at the moment. i'll investigate geting the LR tool for the job - if that proves rip roaringly expensive, then i may consider polybushing it. *shocker* Either way, the press will be used to pop the old bushes out . . . even if just to see whether the welds hold!

both.

The saga of P38 bushes continues. The ones i have bought have got holes in them . . . do the holes go vertically as pictured or horizontally?

hmmm . . . a trawl of the motor factors may be the order of the day then.

I'm progressing along with making a home made press ( pics will follow later with a write-up ) But my thoughts are turning towards actually pushing the bushes out. . . . . thats ssuming that the metal all holds together under the pressure I have a 20t bottle jack and the top of the jack is just a round flat top about 30mm in width. Now, as most folk will know, the main bushes are not flat ended. The centre section sticks out more than the wide outer section which the bushes slots into the arm. On the P38 bushes, this is much more pronounced than the normal LR ones. So if i just use the top of the jack, then i'll only be pressing on the small inner section .... that doesn't seem right ??? So should i try and get drifts made that will pop over the top of the bottle jack head and snugly fit the bush and exert force on the inner and outer shells of the bush? Looking at the bushes, i would need 2 different drifts. If so, anyone able to make something like that ? Would it cost a lot to make?

agree. originals are 255/55 r18s 255/60r18's fit fine although they can occasionally just rub a little bit when the wheel is turned and the suspension compressed, but it varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on how snug the mud flap is to the bodyshell. the 60's do provide a noticable bit of extra 'cush' compared to the 55's and i think they fill the wheel arch a little better too...

Spring rate can be addressed by varying the diameter of the lower spring locator / mount which the rubber bag rolls down and over as the bag compresses. The wider this is, the higher the spring rate that is acheived. This is an issue which the latest Gen3 Airbags from Arnott adress on the P38 RR springs. OEM airbags had a thin section when the RR sits in motorway height. The Gen3's have a wide section to make the motorway height have a much stiffer spring rate when lowered to improve handling. Custom lower mounts to acheive varying spring rates at varying stages of bag compression would be simple to make by running off a lower mount on a lathe and then cobining that with a locator plate to suit the mount on the axle. In terms of the vunerability of air bags . . . yes, i guess that can be an issue, but it would vary on the situation that you are using the air bag. Lots of large stones / branches / logs can come up and puncture an air bag. But at the same time, they owuldn't need much in the way of protection to prevent all but the worst of hits. In a double wishbone setup, if the air bag where contained within the wishbones, then it wouldn't really be all that hard to mount a form of protection guard on one of the arms to stop things hitting it ( grill plate etc ).

Brown as the main colour of a wire generally indicates +12V supply where the supply is striaght from the battery, is not ignition controlled and often unfused. White as the main colour of a wire generally indicates the +12V supply controlled by the ignition. Brown / Black is listed on the lucas colour tables as the horn ( or at least could be an older version of the loom for the horn which never got removed for later models ) Makes sense, since you can normally toot the horn when the ignition is off ( hence brown wire for reasons above ) The white wire could have been used for anything that would want a +12V supply when the ignition is turned on ( stage 1, stage 2 or crank ). These include things like the coil, fuel pumps, ignition feeds, stop solenoids etc etc etc You'd be safe to just insulate them.