taurion

As above , check that it is the correct belt and no debris on any pulley. Are the bearings in the alternator starting to seize at a certain speed ? Take the belt off and check that there is no noise from the bearings when turned by hand.

When I did mine I put a smear of sealer on both sides of the metal gasket and tightened with the torque wrench and second time no problems. I did mine from underneath on a 4 post lift but if you put the front wheels on ramps you should be able to see what you are doing more easily. Beware of the wires to the crankshaft position sensor and the sensor which is close by. What colour was the fuel pump that was changed? Perhaps the injector seals are ok when cold but as the engine warms up they start to leak combustion gas into the fuel gallery and so causes the engine to die. Injector seals are not difficult to do, just don't rush , there is probably a youtube video by now.

If the fuel pump that you took out was covered in a grey film that is the exhaust gases coming back into the fuel system as a result of the injector seals failing. The poor starting is exhaust gas in the fuel gallery.

Injector seals been done recently?

It is possible with patience. It has been several years since I did the job. I think I used 3/8" drive long socket which I turned down the outside diameter to fit in the hole around the glowplug to undo about one turn. Then used a ring spanner to undo 1/12 turn at a time until I could reach them with long nose pliers. A 1/4" drive" long socket might fit to crack them. Buy an extra socket and spanner or two that you can cut up or bend to suit the angle needed. To start them if you cannot get your rachet head in, weld a bar on the side of a socket . Do not be afraid to 'sacrifice' some new tools , they become the special tools that you can keep for the next time. Bon Courage

I suggest going west of Rouen. Go west on the A29 as far as Yvetôt and then south beside Caudebec-en-Caux, cross the Seine by the Pont de Brotonne (free). Continue south to Bourg-Achard to join the A28 south. No traffic jams just some local traffic and you see a little bit of rural France.

When my alternator decided to produce 16.6V it blew my Osram nightbreakers , fortunately there does not appear to be any other damage.

It is is good that the turbo is working. I would have expected 1 bar. If there is no black smoke when accelerating , particularly from 1200 rpm to 1600rpm before the turbo starts working, there is a fuel problem. Does the fuel lift pump work well with a strong jet when pumped by hand? If not, start by checking that the fuel pick-up in the tank is not partly clogged. The fuel lift pumps do fail, so that could be delivering less fuel than needed which would be the extra bit of fuel to get the turbo to 1 bar. All that remains then is the fuel pump. Is the membrane in good order under the cover of the turbo boost capsule on the fuel pump? Does the boost pin move freely? It is the same Bosch VE pump fitted to the 200 and 300tdi engines and a lot of VW/Audi so there is a lot of info on this and other forums. I presume you have 7% vegetable oil in your diesel which can be the cause of problems in the older pumps, particularly if the vehicle has been standing for any length of time. I have had 3 fuel pumps rebuilt in the last few years and each time the technician had said that the vegetable oil has started to degrade the seals and reduce the performance of the pump, 1,000€ for rebuild 3 years ago. Hope that helps

Yes, that is ok. You need to accelerate hard in 2nd or 3rd gear above 2000rpm to get the turbo to give 1bar, slightly uphill will give the engine a load so that the governor calls for more fuel which makes more exhaust gas which increases inlet pressure. It is almost impossible to get any meaningful pressure when stationary because there is no load on the engine. If there is no black smoke when you 'floor it' you have a fuel problem, lift pump or possibly injection pump. Hope that helps.

I think you can see or feel whether the waste gate is open since it is beside the turbine wheel, I will have a look in a few days. If you are able to get a pressure gauge , tee off from the pipe that goes to the fuel pump boost diaphram. If you have pressure then the problem will be in the fuel pump, a broken membrane or sticking fuel pin. Hope that helps.

Start with the simple and cheap.... Fuel filter and air filter. The air filter can be totally soaked in oil from the crankcase breather if it goes to the air filter. A simple loose clip on the intercooler hoses will lose a lot of power, or a leak in the intercooler core. The hoses can delaminate inside and so block or reduce the air flow. The waste gate may be jammed open? Is the turbo badly worn? look at the compressor wheel and feel if there is any radial movement, what is the oil consumption? Try to set up a pressure gauge ( 0 to 1.5 or 2bar) in the vehicle and drive it to see what boost pressure the turbo gives. Without working the engine you will find it hard to get any boost pressure , unless you rev it to well over 2500rpm. Hope that helps.

I did a LT 230 rebuild 7 years ago and do not remember needing anything special. Any special tools for me are homemade out of the lathe , welder and drill in the workshop . so , sorry cannot be of much help. What are you trying to diagnose on the turbo?

The plug is M12 x1.5mm . The outlet to the boost diaphram 1/8" npt. Hope that helps.

There is a set of Cooper Discoverer tyres outside my door from Holland , half worn, date 3715 with sidewalls cracked all round, so unfortunately you are not alone.

25,000kms later I cut open the filter and there is 2mm deposit of sludge so it is doing its job.