steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. Good to hear , and original parts retained too cheers Steve b
  2. Is there any form of insulator block between the carb and manifold ? Also , when it stops as you describe how many pumps on the prime lever to get it going ? What happens if you leave it ticking over upon re-start after a run ? cheers Steve b
  3. Thanks , I reckon it's the one then - the picture on Britcar looks right too Steve b
  4. Morning Ralph Could you confirm the part no. for the downpipe for a K / L reg 200 Tdi auto is ESR 2628 ? from Britcar website ? There is no VIN no. as the engine and box are in a LandRover now. TIA Steve b
  5. It could be the chain jumping , or maybe the viscous diff locking , but first check the auto box oil level , warmed up and in park , ticking over ,having been shuttled between D & R . The symptoms suggest oil issues , level and/or quality or possibly a blocked pickup filter Steve b
  6. It could be the transmission brake not releasing fully ? does shudder or clunk when coming to a stop ? Also does it then change up/down through 2/3/4 cleanly? What does the oil on the autobox dipstick smell like ? cheers Steve b
  7. That's why he is going to clean it and inspect it Nick . If all checks out and it was indeed dirt in the taper rollers and it's all smooth with an appropriate amount of backlash and tooth contact there is no reason it should fail . Steve b
  8. I would do that first - it also gives you a chance to look at the outer race rings for the carrier , if all looks good re-assemble with plenty of gear oil and see what you have . If you can dismantle without moving the lockring on the tooth side of the crownwheel you will have an easier time reassembling - knock the roll pin out to allow the cap to lift off leaving the lock nut in place . will be in touch Steve
  9. with a bit of care it is feasible to do it all yourself , it is detailed in the factory workshop manual (got those here ) , the inner taper bearing seat ring can be ground off or buy a set of bearing puller wedge rings . The bearings will almost certainly be available from East Anglia Bearings too . The pinion is 10 tooth . Or get HfH to chuck it together for you ? Really must pop over for a look Steve
  10. It sounds like crud in the taper roller bearings , or flat sided taper rollers , almost certainly rebuild-able given that the gears and splines are in decent shape ,so worth keeping . If memory serves the pinion is 4 splines on early 4.7 : 1 units ? cheers Steve b
  11. Definitely not ok to use gasket sealer on any part of the injector pump , it will get inside and could wreck it cheers Steve b
  12. It's the high current contactors in the end of the solenoid , under the battery cable studs would be my guess , just get a new solenoid if you can find the maker ? or take it to a good auto electric repairer for a new one . cheers Steveb
  13. The Unimog hybrid caught my eye too , I had a quick search but didn't find any thing . It would be good to know more .. cheers Steve b
  14. Yes , but spec'd for the FFR I think , where they would be run on the hand throttle in high ambient temps . For ordinary use it should not be necessary and will suck up HP . A std. set up with all the rad cowling should work very well Steve b
  15. Hi Kevan It sounds unlikely the tyres are at fault in this case . Are all the fixings tight in the steering ? Steering column mountings , column UJ pinch bolts , large nut on the drop arm/shaft , the bolts and support arm for the box itself and then the track-rod pinch bolts and taper retaining nut . Is there side to side body movement when the steering is rocked ? = panhard rod bushes How good is the steering damper ? how much free play is in the steering wheel before the drop arm moves the drag link ( there is an adjuster on the top of the steering box ) ? Is the preload correct on the swivel kingpin's ? cheers Steve b
  16. ...I reckon JLR's next retro promo will be The All New Centre Steer (built on a Rubicon chassis ) .......with the panelwork made from recycled Harrier jump jets Steve b
  17. This is the point I was trying to make in my reply to Les' post in this thread , put much better . I too have met and got to know some good people through this place and come here every day to catch up with current events in the communities lives with Land Rovers . The respect people have for both each others views and the forum charter is clear to see and is probably why I still come here 11 years after finding it - thanks Petergg Steve b
  18. very funny , the Q & A bit particularly would work really well on drums Steve b
  19. ...I have to say your responses to the slightest off Rules post Les are disproportionate to the frequency .... this is a community no matter what and a little balance would not go amiss We all have a massive list of lost relatives / friends / pets and it is the darkest of paths to travel The tech base and self moderation here by the posters is something to behold in a world of t'internet power constructive or not ? Steve
  20. ...and you read it because ?? I assume that's not your dog in your avatar pic then , just a pic off google images ... Steve b
  21. I lost my older (only 8 yrs. old ) wolfhound to heart failure at the end of November , you have my sympathy , dogs have always been part of this home . Steve b
  22. Check the plugs on the BeCM under the drivers seat for corrosion . It has a role in all of the faults you describe I think ? cheers Steve b
  23. And I'll be around in East Anglia should you need anything , just don't forget to take some pic's cheers Steve b
  24. Ok it's worth cleaning the earth stud connection , terminals and stud , on the bulkhead by the clutch master cyl. - that's where most of the wired earths from dash and lights ground . t cheers Steve b
  25. Is that fuel gauge going to full on the start key position or when you turn on to ign. on ? If it's the latter then either the sender unit has failed allowing the signal feed to go direct to earth or the signal wire is chafed and touching earth somewhere between the fuel gauge and the tank . I can't see a scenario where it would go to full on start ? Starting wise as said above replace the relay first then consider the starter solenoid , this is provided the battery and main earth and power cables are all good cheers Steve b