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Belgian_Dude

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  1. I just checked out the last few logs, and it al seems much better now with Simultaneous injector staging PW now tops out at about 16ms, whereas in the old logs I see values up to 25,5 %also O2 is now cleanly switching, and Gego runs between 85% and 102% indicating it's now rather rich than lean wich is a good thing will do some more tuning today, and report back - hopefully it should now start going like the firebreathing 4,6 I hoped it to be if it does, and it remains below 20ms PW, I see no reason to start fiddling with pumps ... I can't think of any downsides to simultaneous injector staging, am I missing something? Fuel is just waiting around anyway ... and economy is not one of the goals of this build ! grtz, Q.
  2. Allright, time to give some feedback Started out today by testing the lambda on a blowtorch, and it didn't seem to react quite as quickly / well as expected, so swapped that for a new one and went for a drive. started out with the base map again, and quickly ran out of juice again: values up to 200 VE and still running lean in the top end. then, Elbekko noticed the pulse width was up to 25-26ms, which apparently is some kind of maximum (I still have to read op on that ) anyway, I set the injector staging to Simultaneous instead of Alternating, which if I get it should give each injector basically twice the time to inject the required fuel, and the motor felt much happier, snappier and quick! (req fuel changed itself to 5ms from 10 so no change in volume) only tested that for about 10 minutes when I had to leave, but this seems to be a major improvement! working theory is that THOR injectors, combined with the Flapper fuel pump and regulator, don't flow enough to feed the 4,6 at WOT. will test more tomorrow, but already wanted to thank you guys for the input - the lambda definitely switches much better than the old one - I thought as long as it switched it was good, but was proven wrong! greetz, Q.
  3. didn't know, I'll look up how to test a lambda by the weekend and perhaps just swap it out, all of 5 mins work. Smoke: none, except when blipped/revved after sitting idle for a while, it'll puff out grey/black "angry" smoke but never whilst driving, that I can tell anyway. tuning's been done dry - good point but I followed operating procedure ;-) thx,
  4. it's switching ... I've had broken lambda before, which made it stop switching at all and stick rich or lean ... this one, as indicated in the logs, switches at realistic moments. I can swap it, I've a few spare (new), but besides looking at the logs how can I tell it's working well?
  5. ReqFuel is "20" (calculator gives about 18,something so I rounded up) this becomes 10ms since my injector staging is set to alternating - when I change that to simultaneous, it becomes 5ms, so surely this can't matter ?? See screenshot above for all details. haven't checked the pressure. I could, but only without fuel pressure regulator since I'm using a Thor fuel rail which has only one input, no output, so I'm using the pressure nipple as a return ... (obviously removed the pressure valve) this however worked flawlessly on the 3,5 .... the fuel pump is a standard injection 3,5 one, and the injectors are Thor. This is a bit of a questionmark, as I know my FP is running a lower pressure than the thor one (about 2,5bar (theoretical pressure, will try to measure)) vs. 3,5bar for the Thor FP, but I can't find injector specs @ 3,5 bar ... but then again: worked well on the 3,5 engine. I'll try and measure the pressure, perhaps see if I can swap in some Gems injectors or something like that, but I've always read "any modern injector can flow enough" .... thx for the input, Quentin
  6. some more info: I've done loads and loads of reading on MS the 1st time I fitted it, and once again now; I tuned my 3.5 to "more than good enough" and drove it to Russia twice, never missed a beat. however, now, I'm at a loss as to what direction to go in, and I'm also much more afraid to screw up my new engine than I ever was my old 3.5 ... (running lean, knocking, etc.) I can type up pages and pages of "story" behind it, what I've tried etc. but I'm not sure it'll help - I'll gladly answer any question though, and don't expect anything on a silver platter ;-) basically, it started immediately, didn't go into revs until upping the fuel, and now it just wants to keep getting more but doesn't feel like it's driving better + I can't wrap my head around why it would be needing 2,5 times the fuel the 3.5liter engine did ... engine constants being equal. Looking at the logs, it seems indeed the fuel at 250-something is actually being used, as when it dropped off to 130-something (the less tuned part of the map) the O2 values dropped to lean ... which settings, besides engine constants, have a big impact on fueling? any guidance appreated! thx,
  7. Hi guys, need some help tuning me new 4,6L V8 build: 4.0 block, 4.0 pistons 4.6 crank & conrods all-new bearings (main, big-end, cam) and rings honed cilinders mildly ported heads shimmed rockers for correct preload high-torque cam from V8Tuner I've started it successfully on the map that used to run my 3,5, and have started a new tune I think based on some map downloaded on this forum ... probably Nige's. These are my current settings, after a few cycles of logging / tuning (both offline and "autotune") CurrentTune.msq I believe the values are ... a bit off, to say the least. When starting from the base map, it didn't make any power. I added fuel, and immediately felt more which was good but now, everything tells me to keep adding more fuel .... However, despite the floods of fuel going in, it's not "picking up" well, it all feels a bit dull and well frankly, not quite worth the upgrade from my tired old 3.5. I've also attached my last 3.5 map, which I think ran reasonably well but felt "tired" mechanically (although I'm doubting that right now ...). Squirt, fuel rail, injectors, fuel pump, FP regulator, etc. all remained identical. I've also attached a log. 2014-12-14_17.07.30.msl.pdf (not a pdf obviously) please let me know what you need (I've loads of logs and maps and whatnot) and what are the suggested actions to be taken ... If someone has a map for a 4.6 that would be much appreaciated as well ... thx,
  8. hi guys, I need advice ... I recently built a 4.6L engine, and swapped it into my Classic. Unfortunately, I've been unable to drive it for more than about 50 miles because of power assisted steering failure. Setup is pretty simple, and I believe has been built before with success: -Thor 4.6 block & ancillaries (meaning ~2000 ZF pump with its standard pulley and standard drive belt layout) - (rover part QVB101300, ZF part 7613 955 106) -standard Range Classic 4-bolt steering box, was new a couple of years ago and worked flawlessly with the 3.5 and its pump -When first started up and steered lock to lock, it had good PAS -ran for 20' (cam break-in), still got PAS -drove for +-30 minutes, found a leak in the high pressure hose => fixed it by tightening the fitting on the steering box => a few miles later, PAS started playing up. At first, still had PAS above say 1500-2k RPM, then nothing anymore. -swapped the pump, PAS OK again for about 30 minutes, then gradually disappearing -checked and changed: fluid reservoir, inlet hose, outlet hose. whilst swapping out stuff, I would get perfect PAS which would disappear after less than a mile (two turns actually) -tried bleeding it by means of the bleed screw, no air coming out, fluid right away. Turned it lock-to-lock maybe 100 times, no change. Sometimes, revving the engine gets me PAS, sometimes it doesn't. -all this time, fluid level was never allowed to drop too low, and fluid never showed excessive heating. Pump doesn't seem to make much noise, however I'm not getting the usual "I'm working hard"-noise when holding lock either ... Obviously, the next step would be to swap the steering box. However, the unit that's in there is definitely the best I have - bought new less than 5 years ago, + let's not down-play how ****ty of a job that swap is!! I'm rather looking for an explanation, as I can make heads nor tail from these symptoms .... 1) does the steering box have an ajustable over-pressure valve which could be opening too early, given the slightly higher operating pressure of the P38a pump? 2) who's got this pump running a Classic 'box successfully? 3) how do I fix this so I can go drive around my new block and blow up some part of the driveline using all the new Torques ?? attached pic for no reason. thx, Quentin
  9. It runs as a parallel project this week, we built and swapped in some 4,6L engine in my Classic (Thor 4.0 block & pistons, "TVR" 4,6 crank & conrods, Thor ancilliaries, GEMS flywheel, OE GM VR sensor stuck somewhere in the vincinity of it) Since swapping coil leads is easier than redrilling the flywheel, and it's nice to have both team cars running similar setups, we did the same on mine and it fired up right away this proves the MS manuals are, to say the least, unclear in the trim dept, and the setup is viable. Also proves engines run better when sparked at about TDC of the compression stroke rather than random however, the theory and coil order as explaine by Elbekko checks out + Zim's 20 deg trim in MS works as well we should get the P38a running soon, must be something small now, probably mapping / after start enrichment / ... grtz, Q.
  10. For whatever it's worth, my experience confirms this, but I couldn't be bothered fitting the valve right now: start, keep the throttle on (1-3%) for about half a minute, then go ahead and enjoy the v8 rumble, talk to the person asking you what that aluminum box with wires & leds is for 2 minutes, then drive off with perfect idle the rest of the time ... As for the LPG mixer ring, could you post a pic? It should fit the plenum, or in between flapper and plenum, but not be attached to the flapper ... Just to make really sure: you aren't confused with the vacuum or otherwise actuated flapper opening device are you? (the "thing" , various forms available, that pushes the flapper open while on LPG as the engine can't "suck it open") ? Grtz Q
  11. Frederik, Why does the LPG Vaporizer mean you need to keep the flapper? TPS Floodclear is only to tell the engine, without it running, it should crank without squirting fuel - to be used after you've drowned or "flooded" it. Will not come into play with engine running. Grtz Quentin
  12. Hi Frederik, Thanks for the pics! Nice to hear yours is running ;-) I've skipped the LPG part for now, she's running too nicely on petrol, and I'll only be fitting LPG after coming back from tour - won't need it up north anyway, and need all my time for more important stuff ;-) Grtz Q
  13. Fridge, I recalibrated the ECU to suit my CLT used as IAT yesterday already, see previous replies That was all I could do yesterday, and added advantage is that it forced me to get to know Easytherm, it's workings, and spawned a better understanding of the whole temp readout mechanism (sensor - .s19 file - .inc files - ... ) I still stand by my idea to use identical and LR sensors though, GM's CLT and IAT are the same curve as well from what I read (though different internals with an open element for the IAT). Also, you'd be surprised how hard and/or expensive it can be to find simple little items like a bog standard GM IAT or one of it's 1354 aftermarket couterparts in this sucky place called Belgium. So to sum up, I now have 2 rover CLT sensors, one for CLT, one for IAT, and an .S19 generated with Easytherm 5.0 using the calibration values * from your thermfactor.inc for both CLT and IAT uploaded into the Megasquirt. (* 2 Celcius = 4000 ohm; 74 Celcius = 362 ohm; 94 Celcius = 212 ohm) Can't think what could be wrong in this setup Greetz Q
  14. ok, update ;-) Thanks for not answering too quickly, forces me to figure it all out myself And thanks for the IAT idea! I decided to calibrate my ECU using Easytherm to use the same values known for rover CLT for the IAT, generated the .s19 file and upped that into the ECU. Nothing changed display-wise in MT, as this display is purely based on thermfactor,matfactor.inc files as stated earlier, but I'm assuming the ECU now finally knows what it's breathing. Started over from the "General defaults" again, and, well, she runs well (couldn't honestly tell the difference though,I'm too biased.) But, more importantly, after a few logs and VE analysis(es?), I'm now seeing proper o2 voltage switching around .510V, and it seems like MLV is trying to up the fuelling at WOT regions less. Will see after more logs if it keeps on upping it like it did before, but definitely more pleased with what I'm seeing in the logfiles, and what MLV is doing with that info. Had another issue, but promptly solved; Engine was cutting out for very short instants, at first only whilst driving at steady throttle and below 25%tps, but after a while it did so on WOT as well, and that's not good. I'd been looking at te log graphs since the second or third instance of this, as it was clearly new, but couldn't figure out what triggered it: RPM plummeted, and everything followed upon that value (VE, spark, DC, ...) but I couldn't find any value (went through all displayable values) that came before the RPM value drop. Also felt the RPM drop, and saw it on my std Rangey tacho, but resolution of my eyes and of the std tach wasn't high enough to see which came first: RPM drop or RPM value drop. But, as I couldn't find any value preceeding the RPM value drop, I opened up the bonnet, and surely, my yet-to-be-wrapped cable loom, specifically the part going to the EDIS8, was touching a spark lead Separated both, gone interference, gone "problem". Greetz Q
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