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Cam_43

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  1. i would recomend you change the injector o rings and copper washers to start with. i have found that if Td5 be come harder to start, the fuel pumps and the filters have a black soot in them. i beleve this is from compresstion leaking past the o rings..i only fit genuine ones. the top end switch fault you mention on the injectors i have found to be the engine harness rubs on the inlet manifold and shorts the injector wires to ground causing this fault. ive been down the route of injector and ECUs and it turn out to be the engine harness. hope this helps
  2. thankyou All for the input and replys. TSD reading your blog about your convertion, makes me want the Power stroke. i must admit i do worry about how many clutches and gearboxes i will get though. i would like to know if you think the Ashcroft L suffix R380 with the BIG bearing kit fitted would combat the problem of gearbox faulter? i would need to change the gearbox on my 110 anyway so i would have a built to spec. Fridgefreezer i see what your saying about starting a 20 year block etc. it was more about building an engine which we more of a all rounder which didnt kill gearboxes. i.e. the toque being lower with a stock turbo. etc. but i compelety get what your saying about the power stroke.new engine has got to be the way forward . thanks ben
  3. TSD thanks for the in put. had not thought about it in that way i was lead to beleve that the cam belt etc. was all diffent to stock parts. thanks for correcting that. the resonaling be hind me leaning to wards the reworked 300 was easy of repair and easy of fitting. how dose it stand up against a td5>? or whats the torque band like? thanks ben
  4. hello all, thought i would ask your opinion on my latest plan. i want to keep using my 200 tdi 110 for holidays, overland comutting etc and i find its now becoming a bit of a chew to use due to comparing it to other vehicles i drive. its lacks power, its noisey and desperate on hills towing. i thought about changing to a Td5 but there's the issue which come along with it. like ECUs when aboard and problems with the heads. plus i want to keep the 110 ive had for 10 years and love to bits and modifed to my needs. so i thought about the 300 tdi but i feel the power gain wouldn't be that impressive,so i looked around and found M and D engineering 2.8 conversion. which develops 120BHP and 205lb torque @1600 RPM. with a stock head and turbo. if i went of a VVT Turbo the 250lb Torque @ 1400 RPM. but unsure how reliable VVT would be and long lasting? My thoughts on going this way in stead of the 2.8 international power stroke is that the toque is more manageable though a stock manel box. less messing around to fit. all the parts bolted to it are stock. un like the 2.8 which used a different cam belt,aut,water pump.etc. which makes parts harder to get hold of. so the question is has any one heard or drive a 2.8 300 tdi.? anyone heard of any bad press about this? can anyone see a problem in the future with this plan? thanks in advance
  5. hi Guys i have a friend whos driving thought europe with a salibury front axle on his 110 td5. its pushing the ep 90/80 out of the axle beather and is pretty much empting the casing with in 100 miles. so what to do to fix it? i personaly think the diff is get hot because it worn and working hard, so its pressuring the air. so theres no quick fix other than rebuilding the diff? at the mo he has the beather pipe going in to a catch bottle. anyway would apprashate your thoughts on this, as he a bit desprate! thanks
  6. as promised pictures of the doors fitted to the trailer, all the side opening doors have lift off stainless hinges so once set up with the tent side on the doors are removed to make more space in the room. the back door has gas struts that lift it up and the door for the zarge boxes opens down to allow you to use it as a table or to rest the boxes on to open them. the back door was oringaly gona have the spare wheel on it but the door would have been very heavy to lift and i think the weight would be in the wrong place. so i have yet to deside where to put it. its now all striped ready for paint on monday, ive gone for limestone , as its a nice light colour which should keep it a bit cooler inside and inkeeping with the rest of the trailers on the market.
  7. then i started designing the cooking side and working out were the best place to put the shelfs and cooker stand. i also built the 3 zarge box frame for the other side, this was all out of 25 x 25 angle. to save time and for the ease of it. i bought a frigde slide to bolt to the top of the store draw. which all fitted out the door frame. at this stage it was starting to think about doors and how i was gona make them , well i started buy making a protype door out of 20 x 20 alu box and then skined on 1mm alu i was then gona get a company to weld up the corners of the the frame. i rivted the frame to the alu skin as i way of holding them in prosistion. but this was very time comsuming and i when to see another trailer company about making the doors for me. which were gona be 3mm alu with a return lip and then seal on the frame with a lip seal on the edge. there were 6 doors to make which with the locking latches and stainless hinges cost £1020 ! yes alot of dosh but the finished product is far greater than anythink i could have come up with. photos to follow.
  8. hello, its been 3 months sinice i last posted due to running a business and dealing with my family. so progress on the trialer has been slow but we are now running out of time before driffield LR show so ive now stepped it up a gear. my last post was just as i had built the frame and started to think about the internal frame and where things were going to go. i also want to get an idea of space so i made a start on the skin of the trailer with was out of 1mm alu which folded around the frame nicely, i was concered about water ingress into the trailer when driveing so the front panel raps around all sides of the frame. the roof panel is flat on the frame with the front and back panels folding over it. i then need some way of finishing the side so i made some alu capping to finish the edge of the roof.
  9. its been a couple of weeks since i last posted due to family issues, so this weekend gone, i manged to spent a couple of hours on the trailer. i finished store draw mounts and welded them to the chassis. then clean and prepared the chassis for underseal/ stone chip to be sprayed on. i then set about making the floor out of zinked 1mm sheet, i made it in three pieces. ive rivted it down to the chassis with tigar seal in between the two, to help with bonding and less rattling. i hope to get the outer frame finished this week and then paint it ready for the outer skin to go on the roof and the front.
  10. been it too busy with work this last week to make alot of progress, so ive just been cleaning up the welds on the out side edge of the frame. ive also add another 45X45 box between the top rails of the box. it runs inline with b post, this had allowed me to start adding the up rights which support the zarge box frame. ive also start to think about the cooking side of the trailer where i am planin to make the wooden top of the store draw continue along.as ive added some angle along the edge of the opening. i think the gas bottle of the cook will be going on the same side as the zarges boxes in the back courner. to anstwer the question , the box is 2115 long by 1600 at the base tappering to 1500 at the top. nose weight is somthinking im thinking about but wont really know until i load the trailer as at the mo its very nose heavy due the storedraw and frigde being on the front .
  11. just a quick update tonight. built up the other door frame and looked at where i am gona store the 4 zarge boxes which will store bedding, toys for Otto, baby stuff, and beer! intent on them all fitting with in the same space as the other side where the cooking stuff will be stored. built a simple frame and gauged the high with an empty box and started at the top of the frame. in pratice there will need to be guides for the boxes to side into the frame which will stop them moving in transit. when i set my wheel arch hight, i used the distance between the bump stop and the axle as guide hight. working on the wheel isant gona move any more than that travel. i feel i should be ok. the zarge box frame isnt competely finshed as it need as support on the front egde. but you see where im going with it.
  12. ive done quite a bit more this weekend to the trailer, built the roof frame to the same size as the tent base and set about cuting the 6 up rights. for the bulk of the frame im using 45 x 45 box the side profile tapers in after wheel box, the angel is 30 degrees. after sorting the up rights and checking the draw fits between the door gap i put the box section in above the wheel arch ,which the cooker shelf will hinge on.
  13. hello, did you get an eka code with it? you could try putting this in to the door with the original BCU pluged in its a 4 diti code, which can have numbers up to 11 in i.e. ( 25119) so this would be 2 5 11 9 . i will post on monday night the way to put it in. as there is things you need to do frist. i would say that the bcu that thats pluged in is unlocked.somthing you can do with autologic etc. but it has not had the security sinked with the other ecu. new BCU have been on back order from land rover for 6months now. hope this helps
  14. today sit the draw unit on the trailer and did some more measuring. heres how it looks with the store draw in place. i started looking a the wheel arch, but have come to a stop, as really need to sort the overall height of the trailer out. the tent ive ordered has to be around 1.5 meters off the floor for the sides to work proply. i was hoping to mount the fridge on top of the draw but now ive got this far i need to get the fridge out of the 110 and try it. on the plus side, really pleased with how it looks.
  15. in a risk of flooding the forum with trailer builds, i thought long and hard about not posting this and then thought sod it, you dont have to read it.! lol.... as my family has gone from 2 to 3 in the last couple of months, and the amount of stuff you need to cart about for a baby, i now cant get a push chair in the back for the 110 with the store draw,fridge boxes etc. so im gona build a off road trailer to carry on traveling with the family. i bought a wide track sankey just before x mas, and striped off the tub and did some measuring. thinking. i want to move all my overland gear out of the 110 and incoprate it into the trailer. the two major items, are store draw and frigde. the tent was the next problem, theres a couple of companys that make trailer tents, i really like the design of the eezi awn globe drifter. this is 2100mm by 1500mm so im gona try and keep the trailer to this size. i started my build by lenthing the distance between the axle and the towing ring. i added 320mm to allow the store draw to fit before the wheel arch and the front edge of the sankey. then added the extra braces as i was in the middle of the chassis for strenght as i was not happy with the load going thought just the outer beams. i used 3mm 2x4 box for all of the chassis mods, and out riggers. out rigger (towards the bottom of the picture) is to support one of the 6 up rights that will hold the tent and carry the weight of the draw. the draw is going to sit flush with the up right in the picture and then this will deturmin where the next up right will go. there will be a door that hinges down above the wheel arch this will come later, as im hoping the frigde will mount on a slide on top of the draw with out this affecting the hight of the trailer. more as i progess.
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