V8 Freak

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V8 Freak last won the day on March 12

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About V8 Freak

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    I'm not as thunk as drinkle peep I am....
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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    Near Cambridge

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    Photography, Land Rovers, Computers

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  1. That is the new flywheel / ring gear. Old Dual Mass Flywheel removed. All bolted up to the torque converter now. Neil
  2. I can assure you it's not there now and will not be incorporated!!!!
  3. After emptying and organising all the contents of the boxes, there was a complete set of bolts and a retaining plate so beyond any doubt the Ashcroft team had supplied options in the way of X2 spacers, 1 of 1mm and 1 of 2mm... Once all measured to get the required gap it was torque wrench time..... More in another thread... Neil
  4. This seems to help some..... Some text in a label describing the disks as spacers. The mystery is solved. Now dry fittted and measured and 2mm spacer selected. Neil
  5. I thought it might be Les. I've gone for an upgraded torque converter so the standard rules and codes may not apply. I have read that I will need up to 2mm between flex plate and torque converter lugs before attaching the two. It may be that the thinner ring is to achieve this. I have assumed the thicker of the two will be the support plate. Just trying to find out for sure. I will do some measuring later.
  6. Appealing to the superior knowledge of the LR4X4 collective.... I've started a journey from manual to auto in the 90. Its a TD5 and I've acquired a kit from the good folks at Ashcroft's. Alas, they are not available for consultation today and I was rather hoping to install the auto box today.... in the kit they have sent what appears to be 2 flex plate support plates.... One is thicker than the other. Uncle Ralph (Western variety) helped with a diagram that shows only the one! (item 5 in the link) http://www.albrit.de/epc.cfm?PAGE=G01090&CAR=L5&SPRACHE=EN Does anyone know for sure how both should be used or should I apply myself to other tasks today and have a conversation with the knowledgable Dave Ashcroft himself tomorrow? Thanks in advance. Neil
  7. So.... You could pull the whole lot off again and fit the old clutch back in really!! Glad you found the reason finally. Well done for the diagnosis Mo.. Neil
  8. To test a theory I'd put it in with new bearings and leave the races for what could only be a few miles in reality. If you need to swap out the overdrive for more than a test, then pull the t/box and do the job when you know you need to. I'm with you on this Rich. If it's not the O/D Ralph, then you will have pulled and change the races for nothing.... Just my thoughts. (More importantly why aren't you under the truck in the dark changing it now !!)
  9. Well remembered Mo.... Forgot he has that under there and the symptoms do sound familiar now you mention it.... I hope the input gear resolves the mystery although it does bring another set of challenges with it of course...
  10. I went to Griffin http://www.griffinperformance.co.uk/defender.htm Great system, fitted perfectly, still looks like new several years on...
  11. Ralph, Did you go for the standard plastic bearing carrier or upgrade to an alternative metal one? Just wondering if the release bearing is remaining in contact with the forks and reducing the clamping pressure on the clutch? I assume you replaced the pressure plate and clutch material?
  12. Ok.. I think I can see what Simon is talking about when you look at the plug design and the role of the O-rings... Look at the picture below; This is the Injector loom / top part of the injector loom joint that is inside the TD5 head. If the oil gets past the o-rings it gets into the bottom section of the joint and pools there.... With temperature and time, the oil enters the main loom and wicks it's way along to the ECU plug over time. If these o-rings do not compress / age / crack and ultimately leak, no oil can get to the main loom... The pins of the connection are in the top part and these should not leak / let oil through. The picture below is a 2 year old loom.... No evidence of oil around the pins at all. I think we have a winner...... Now to find me some Viton o-rings. For information... Inner Diameter 25mm and 2.5mm thickness. Neil EDIT: Went to fit the O-rings today and they were too big ! The loom currently fitted must have a different external design to the one I measured against ! The current one is 24mm ID and 3mm cross section o-rings.... Might pay for anyone wishing to switch to Viton o-rings to check what their loom needs.
  13. I dunno but his information has been bang on so far. His suggestion was oil travelling along the loom, but I guess on the outside of the wiring and within the protective loom covering. Hence my fact or fiction comment because I thought it went inside the wiring as you comment. But... That means it jumps across the loom connection as it exits the head and then forces itself back into the wires once again! Any more views / facts?
  14. Hi all, I've been in discussion with someone who is suggesting that the oil transferring from the engine into the main ECU loom is as a result of the injector loom o-rings getting hot, compressing and effectively letting oil past. They suggest getting the equivalent Viton o-rings are good to 200 degrees C and will not be affected by the temperatures and thus, should not leak... Hopefully this will mean and end to oil in my seat box and red ECU plug...... Fact or fiction.... I'm happy to find out.... Can anyone advise either Viton part number or internal dimensions and thickness of the o-rings so I can seek the equivalent? Thanks in advance. Neil
  15. Only time will tell....