V8 Freak

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About V8 Freak

  • Rank
    I'm not as thunk as drinkle peep I am....
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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  • Location
    Near Cambridge

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  • Interests
    Photography, Land Rovers, Computers

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  1. To test a theory I'd put it in with new bearings and leave the races for what could only be a few miles in reality. If you need to swap out the overdrive for more than a test, then pull the t/box and do the job when you know you need to. I'm with you on this Rich. If it's not the O/D Ralph, then you will have pulled and change the races for nothing.... Just my thoughts. (More importantly why aren't you under the truck in the dark changing it now !!)
  2. Well remembered Mo.... Forgot he has that under there and the symptoms do sound familiar now you mention it.... I hope the input gear resolves the mystery although it does bring another set of challenges with it of course...
  3. I went to Griffin http://www.griffinperformance.co.uk/defender.htm Great system, fitted perfectly, still looks like new several years on...
  4. Ralph, Did you go for the standard plastic bearing carrier or upgrade to an alternative metal one? Just wondering if the release bearing is remaining in contact with the forks and reducing the clamping pressure on the clutch? I assume you replaced the pressure plate and clutch material?
  5. Ok.. I think I can see what Simon is talking about when you look at the plug design and the role of the O-rings... Look at the picture below; This is the Injector loom / top part of the injector loom joint that is inside the TD5 head. If the oil gets past the o-rings it gets into the bottom section of the joint and pools there.... With temperature and time, the oil enters the main loom and wicks it's way along to the ECU plug over time. If these o-rings do not compress / age / crack and ultimately leak, no oil can get to the main loom... The pins of the connection are in the top part and these should not leak / let oil through. The picture below is a 2 year old loom.... No evidence of oil around the pins at all. I think we have a winner...... Now to find me some Viton o-rings. For information... Inner Diameter 25mm and 2.5mm thickness. Neil EDIT: Went to fit the O-rings today and they were too big ! The loom currently fitted must have a different external design to the one I measured against ! The current one is 24mm ID and 3mm cross section o-rings.... Might pay for anyone wishing to switch to Viton o-rings to check what their loom needs.
  6. I dunno but his information has been bang on so far. His suggestion was oil travelling along the loom, but I guess on the outside of the wiring and within the protective loom covering. Hence my fact or fiction comment because I thought it went inside the wiring as you comment. But... That means it jumps across the loom connection as it exits the head and then forces itself back into the wires once again! Any more views / facts?
  7. Hi all, I've been in discussion with someone who is suggesting that the oil transferring from the engine into the main ECU loom is as a result of the injector loom o-rings getting hot, compressing and effectively letting oil past. They suggest getting the equivalent Viton o-rings are good to 200 degrees C and will not be affected by the temperatures and thus, should not leak... Hopefully this will mean and end to oil in my seat box and red ECU plug...... Fact or fiction.... I'm happy to find out.... Can anyone advise either Viton part number or internal dimensions and thickness of the o-rings so I can seek the equivalent? Thanks in advance. Neil
  8. Only time will tell....
  9. Hi and welcome to LR4X4.... It will help if you can post up what sort of trailer, an idea of what you think needs attention and potentially some pictures so others can offer advice. Neil
  10. That kit is good although mine was a touch tight across the front of the truck and the N/S headlight cable is short as a result... (All very useable though) I've got Osram Nightbreakers but blew two X 10amp fuses soon after it was all commissioned.... Wiring all checked out so I put a 15 amp fuse in and it's been working fine for approx. a year now.... Neil
  11. Happy New Year
  12. I'll see if I can find some time with the truck and Nanocom to find that option....
  13. Amazingly... I got the Ben Fogle book too.....
  14. Wondering if the knowledge of those on here might help me.... I was doing some work on the truck today and read the faults on my ECU. Got this one... 8-1 air conditioning fan drive over temperature (logged) I cleared the code and it registered again when I ran the engine. I've not had time for further investigation and intend checking the condenser fan itself... Any other suggestions of things I should consider? Anyone had this code themselves? Thanks in advance Neil
  15. To add some feedback from a users perspective.... Centre ATB in LT230 for some time now and really wouldn't know it's there.... I also have an Ashcroft ATB in the rear diff. While touring in the Pyrenees earlier this year I got to a bit of an axle twister on a slow long climb and left the centre diff unlocked, where I thought I might need it locked... No real momentum... Just a bit of a test.... When the left front lost traction the truck stopped.... The two ATB's weren't enough to keep it moving.... Rolled back a few feet, locked the centre diff and on she went without issues. On the road the vehicle shows no signs of the ATB's being there under normal conditions. I've pushed it around in the wet and dry conditions and the truck behaves itself. They are doing their work as I should be slipping around a lot more in some of these situations, but so far I'm happy that I can push the loud pedal when needed and all seems in control. (Td5 is "tuned" with bigger intercooler, VGT and IRB mapping) When I'm off-road it's normally lanes and at a fairly sedate pace, so I doubt they get a work out at all on those occasions. Since they've been installed I've not really been in many wet, muddy scenarios apart from a few lanes in Thetford and I've only locked the centre diff on one occasion "just in case" and even then I doubt it was needed. For me, just having good road manners in less than ideal conditions on KM2's they are proving worth it...