Jump to content

Chicken Drumstick

Moderators
  • Posts

    2,440
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Chicken Drumstick last won the day on January 17

Chicken Drumstick had the most liked content!

Reputation

549 Excellent

1 Follower

About Chicken Drumstick

Profile Information

  • Location
    Not far from MK

Recent Profile Visitors

6,355 profile views
  1. You really need to crawl under and take a look or maybe take a photo and post here. In theory I'd guess it probably would have had a drum equipped Salisbury axle, but it is possible that it has a basic Rover axle. As you just don't know what has been done to it in its lifetime. you might also want to check the front diff. It isn't unheard to find out people have fitted a Range Rover/Ninety 3.54:1 to only one axle, ignoring the fact a Series would be 4.75:1 as standard. Which then often results in breaking one diff or another.
  2. https://www.flatdoguk.com/disco-2-std%2Fhd-1~456
  3. In the past lots were made from soft cheap metal and would wear a groove in, messing with the fuelling and making them worse than not tampering at all. Also, you should be able to see the gains just by using the stock pin and changing its position, but you need to spend time setting it up. The modified one is just more of a generic setting. So yes, they can work. But could come with longer term risk of performance dropping off. And ultimately are a bit like applying a generic map to an ECU controlled engine. Meaning with a little more effort you can probably get better results not using one. All IMO and others may have different views.
  4. That is a very challenging read, the tone is dreadful. Had to close the tab in the end.
  5. Its quite simple, things like gearboxes have a surcharge. If doing this online, you pay the surcharge, but once you send them your old unit, you'll get the refund on the surcharge amount. Its this way round, as historically people just wouldn't send in the old unit or it wouldn't be of the expected condition. I'd recommend phoning them up if you are unsure or maybe even come and visit. Should be easy doing there and back in a day from Wiltshire. Dave is very good, my Uncle knew his Dad Ian Ashcroft. They are only down the road from us. So I'd highly recommend them as a business.
  6. Swapping over should be quite easy and perfectly DIY'able if you have tools, space and a mate to help. Or look at swapping the internals over. If you get somewhere to do either job it is at max 1 days effort, but really more like 1/2 day. So don't let them overcharge you on labour. Any half decent mechanic should be able to do, nothing specialist about the job. Although if it is an LR place doing it. Then transfer box and new one in should be more like 1.5 -2 hrs.
  7. I'd guess the only risk with a 1.3:1, you could go to the cost and expense of buying and fitting, only to find it is a halfway house and doesn't solve the problem. A 1.4 would normally be a lot cheaper to try out. Discos would have had something like a 235/70 tyre or equiv, all about 29" tall. A 265/75R16 is 31.7" tall with the same gearing would be over geared. I'd guess the 1.4 would bring them pretty close mph per 1000rpm. I'll have a look on the Ashcroft gearing calculator now. .... The Ashcroft calculator only shows one gear set for the ZF 4-speed auto, so I'll assume they are all the same. 235/70R16 - 1.2:1 - 60mph = 2172rpm 265/75R16 - 1.2:1 - 60mph = 1987rpm 235/70R16 - 1.4:1 - 60mph = 2528rpm 265/75R16 - 1.4:1 - 60mph = 2313rpm I'd image a 1.4 would drive a heck of a lot better than the 1.2 with the only trade off being slightly more noise at motorway speeds. 50mph is only just over 1600rpm with the 1.2 and big tyres, so right on the boost threshold or just off boost, so no wonder it struggles to maintain speed at this rpm.
  8. What sort of exhaust are you after? Cheap mild steel, stainless, quiet, loud etc? btw you shouldn’t have noticed any power loss with a broken exhaust. Probably the opposite as most exhausts are restrictive.
  9. Certainly not saying don't consider condition. But as you can buy all the bits relatively easily to repair, I'd probably opt for a tatty Td5 over a tidy Tdi if they were the same money and both solid vehicles. But it does come down to your longer term plans. Which I admit for the op may be less of a concern if it is a first vehicle. Few people stick or get to keep their first vehicle, although many wish that they had! But a for instance. You can fairly easily swap a Td5 (or even something like an M57) into a 300Tdi. But it is still a fairly major project for most people and will come at a cost that typically involves 4 figures. It would also be a modified vehicle. A Td5 should go well in 100% stock form and as mentioned, if you plan to off road, the traction control is quite a game changer in some situations.
  10. The Puma (also known as a Tdci) is still very much a Defender to drive. But yes, they are a step on again. And generally are more refined and go better stock for stock. The obvious differences are the dash and you don't have the traditional vents that open up to the outside. Plus the 6 speed gearbox and Ford Transit based engine. The Puma's go well and can be tuned for a similar 150-190hp as the Td5's. The 6 speed box is a mixed bag. 6 gears are good, but the gear change is very clunky and jerky compared to the older 5-speed transmissions. In reality you can't go wrong with any. And if you plan to keep, Defenders are easy to mod and swap different or later engines into. Personally I think the Td5 is the sweet spot. I like the older dash and vents. But you get a good blend of performance and refinement. Also, if you plan to off road, the traction control is quite a game changer in some situations. Note, traction control was optional on a Td5 though, so not all have it. Condition is important too and tidy vs tatty or solid vs rotten might also play a part in any decision. Although worth bearing in mind, you can replace every single part on a Defender. Which is a rare thing compared to other cars. This means that no matter what is broken, worn or corroded, it can be replaced and normally is a fairly easy job to do.
  11. While both vehicles look similar, there are some evolutionary differences. Lets take a step back. The 200Tdi and 300Tdi are very similar, so if thinking of one, worth considering the other. The 300Tdi is IMO a more productionised (aka cheaper to build) version of the 200Tdi. As the Discovery and Defender had slightly different variants of the 200Tdi. The development of the 300Tdi let them have a single engine type for both vehicles. There where some advances with the 300Tdi being a serpentine belt. But power, torque, mpg and performance are pretty much the same (technically the Defender 200Tdi was less powerful than the Discovery variant, the 300Tdi has the same specs as the Disco 200Tdi engine). In practice however, I'd say a 300Tdi seems to be a little more refined than a 200, but it is very close. The only difference is the gearbox. The 200Tdi uses the older LT-77 5-speed, while the 300Tdi uses the R380 5-speed. In theory the R380 is stronger and reverse is in a different location. In practice there is very little real world difference. And I've driven more nicer shifting LT-77's than R380's. Overall a 200 and 300 are both good vehicles. I had an L-Reg 300Tdi hard top as my first vehicle way back in 1997. The Td5 brought in a number of changes. The Td5 engine is more powerful (although the standard tune for the Defender sucks, the engine goes a lot better in the Disco 2 in standard tune, but lets come back to this later). so the Td5 is quicker than a Tdi and has more tuning potential that the Tdi will never match. However by modern car standard both vehicles are pretty slow. The Td5 uses the same R380 5-speed as the 300Tdi. Other changes include things like a digitally controlled speedo instead of cable, optional traction control (for off road use to simulate limit slip differentials, it isn't a road bias stability system). And the likelihood to find factory air con and central. All in all the Td5 is dynamically a better vehicle. Faster, more refined and maybe better specced. Downsides. Well as you've said, a Td5 might cost more to buy. And I think the thickness of some of the body panels was reduced. So a Td5 is more prone to panel damage and corrosion. Not a major thing, but something you might notice more so when looking at examples. Such as corrosion around the rivets on the side of the rear tub. Something you'd see less often on a Tdi model. The chassis also underwent some revisions on the Td5 with an ever so slightly larger tank at the rear of the vehicle instead of under the drivers seat. Think it is only a gallon or so bigger of usable capacity. The Td5 engine is a lovely engine and arguably one of the best "Rover" designed engines. It has a few quirks, but overall is a solid and reliable engine. They also sound lovely with an aftermarket exhaust and can quite easily get to 150-190hp with a few mods (that you'd need to declare insurance wise). A Tdi is good for more like 120-135hp mod for mod. But there is a difference in how they drive. The Td5 has less low end and a strong mid and more revs. A very noticeable boost threshold and arguably more laggy feel to it. A Tdi pulls like a steam train off idle, but won't rev the same. The Tdi's can sound nice too, more gruff than a Td5 and not as musical. Really the biggest difference is refinement or lack thereof with the Tdi's. Good stout engines, but a Td5 should be more refined at any and all speeds. MPG wise. I'd say neither are likely to be great. It'll depend how you drive and where. I'd say a sensible expectation would be 25-28mpg with either engine. Although both can see over 30mpg and both capable of nearer the teens if modded. Overall I'd probably say the Tdi is the more frugal. But really too close to call it. As for maintenance/complexity. They are pretty similar, the Td5 you might want a code reader, while the Tdi is purely spanners. But both are simple and easy to work on. Not sure if that helped or not. I'd say try and grab a drive with both engines and see what you think. Might be worth checking some insurance quotes too, as I don't know if they will vary between engines. As a conclusion - A Tdi & Td5 are similar enough that either would be as good as the other for almost anything. So it may not matter which you went for. But both carry advantages and disadvantages depending on budget and what you want from the vehicle and what you plan to do with it in the future.
  12. I really like the idea of a PS-10. However when I looked at them a number of years ago. The brake discs were no longer available. Being something bespoke by Santana. For overland this might be an issue unless there is now a supply (I haven’t checked for ages). I’d guess with work and money you may be able to adapt to Defender brakes, but didn’t investigate this enough. The PS-10 is also based on the Series 109. So you may want to check some dimensions against a 110 as they may differ slightly if you wanting to try and retro fit body parts.
  13. 50mpg sounds very high for an RRS. A quick Google is suggesting a lot less, so I wonder if 50mpg is not correct?
  14. if you want to learn about offset, Google is your friend... But essentially ET means from the rim centre to the front face in mm. A negative ET will move the rims outboard and a positive more inboard. e.g. If you had a 8" wide rim with 00 offset you'd have a 4 inch dish on the front and back. A 7" wide rim with 00 offset would be 3.5" dish either side. While an 8" rim with say a -25ET would have a 5 inch dish on the outside and a 3 inch dish on the inside. In this case making the rim stick out the arch an inch further than 00ET. A 255/85 is design to fit a 6.5 - 8.5" wide rim. So any will work bar the 10j rim. Although IMO an 8" wide rim does make this size tyre look a little stretched. A 7" rim would probably be more ideal. As for offset. Factory rims are 16x7 or 16x6.5 normally with an offset of +33ET, so quite tucked in the arch. With the 16x7's above you say you can get them in -20 and -25? tbh I've never really looked at these rims. But 5mm difference is going to make no odds at all and you'd never tell by eye. Odd that they offer such similar offsets. Either should work fine.
  15. I believe they slightly adjust the pump timing to inject the fuel slightly earlier to get a longer/better burn. i.e. more fuel is turned into power and less wasted out of the exhaust. Years back places like Jeremy J Fern used to tamper with the engine timing, I think this was trying to achieve something similar but before these boost rings existed as a concept. I can't say for certain, but I have a stock turbo modded 200Tdi that runs pretty well in an 88 coiler. A mate has a dyno verified 190hp Td5 90 and in a straight line he is quicker, but not quick enough to over take if he is behind me. I'm no way saying the Tdi is this power level, it most certainly isn't. But it does run rather well. Did a bit of a fun drag race last summer in a field (0 to about 70'ish mph) against an EFI 3.9 86 coiler and an 88 3.9 comper. I beat both of them. My 200Tdi has a tweaked pump, slightly tweaked boost, free flow exhaust dual inlet manifold and a boost ring.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy