muddy

Ed's mate CLH offer a 20x8 with twist locks that would be a good multipurpose or there are more skelly style older ones coming up on marketplace readily away. IMHO the CT177 is not strong enough without adequate bearers to spread the weight, the side rails and punched floor can be easily bent with machinery/industrial loads. The same can be said for the TB range, if you put something like a roller or tractor implement on you start bending the floor/sides up when strapping down if your not careful. I'm sure I have put this on before but a long time ago I moved a railway carriage body that had been used as a stable for ~50 years. We cut 6x6" posts to the right size to jam into the inside and strapped it all together with ratchet straps before using hi-lifts to rear one end up and winch it onto telegraph poles on the trailer with block and tackle shackled to the rear crossmember. This was all in a small croft in Redmire so access was limited to say to least, we had to have it higher on the trailer using the hil-lifts inside on the afore mentioned 6x6 beams this time to pass over a wall on the way out before lowering it back down.. It was a steady 20 mile journey back through mainly single track roads in low box. Anything can be done with enough care and thought but sometimes often you have to weigh up whether it is really worth it.

We have moved a 20' on a 16' for but it certainly wasn't ideal, you could get away with an 18' but obviously a 20' would be better. Sit it on the bed and use a hi-lift or two to raise it up to put your beams/logs/poles under afterwards. you can also buy a purpose made 20' container transport trailer that is 3500kg gross. It is far easier to use a good lorry man with hiab however especially if you are getting more than one, we recently had two delivered and they were in perfect place within 30 mins of turning up.

They sound about right to me, try extend and compress them quite quickly mimicking the suspension as you would be driving and I think you'll struggle! don't forget when on the car you are compressing the spring aswell as the damper.

A year later and it was the tractor run again last Sunday. A few months back a friend gave me a direct injection engine from a compressor or roller that had been sat out with no injectors and the head sat on loosely. I cleaned it up and left if for a month or two with penetrant in the cylinders but it was seized solid. Anyway two weeks ago I commenced tear down, found the bottom end to be in good shape so pressed some new liners in and rebuilt it with parts from both engines, added a nice dual display smiths capillary oil pressure/coolant temp gauge, repaired some wiring after a mouse has nested under the dash, re bushed the front axle pivot and added some wear plates to the PUH. Just a word of note the original delta engine is an A3 indirect injection and the new one was an AD3 direct injection. whilst basically the same the are very much not and a 'quick' rebuild and throw together turned into 4 days of head ache and hassle. Noticeable differences are between the rear main oil seal the AD being a modern lip seal, this means the rear main cap and crank are different, the seal housing is a bigger diameter than the rope variant so your backplate won't fit and the rear main cap is also much wider so the rope seal sump doesn't fit. Of course my 'new' sump was a different shape so I had to modify the front axle mountings on the tractor. The cam is also slightly different having a drive on the rear, the AD3 has an extra row of headbolts on the edge that need plugging in the top of the block (BEFORE you fit the head......) , dipstick is now on the wrong side just to ruffle some anoraks and of course every Anyway it completed the run without fault so now to blast and paint the wheels and work out why the brakes have no bite. Backplate showing how much it needs opening up by Picture cos tractors, we have gone from a red block to a yellow block but that's about it.... So if anyone needs a virtually brand new rope seal crankshaft or direct injection head let me know! Edit to add picture of new engine...

I would think you would be lucky to see a £500 return from the shell of the disco unless you found a very special one, I was at the ripon 4x4 surtout last Sunday and couldn't give some D2 bits away. In its simplest form you get the ECU de-immobiliesed so it will just run the engine without any extra security measures, this is around £250 I think usually you get a stage 1 map on it at the same time. I am right in the middle of doing this and it will definitely be cheaper and easier to rebuild one of the engines you have now.

I would advise the same, we used to have a 300 auto disco on 235/85 tyres and until you got it up to 70-80mph it would always drop speed on hills, once at cruising speed it was in a sweet spot and would happily sit there but the defender aerodynamics won't allow that. What tools and facilities do you have available?

Yes you can watch the temperature change quicker with a 3mm, I personally prefer an analogue gauge as you only need a rough idea. I bought glow shift from the states because I could get a matching diesel boost gauge. That VDO vision one above is very nice though...

Try and get a 3mm probe over a 6mm you get a much better idea about what's going on.

As above or weld a nut/socket to a cut off old spanner.

Well roughly 24hrs after phoning and then emailing workwear outlet in Blackburn where I purchased them a brand new pair were delivered through my door. Can’t grumble at that service.

6 months later.... Let's see what they say about this....

Thje bezels are crimped around the gauge body, with carful and persistent prying you can get them off.

I bought the cheapest standing blast cabinet I could find, IIRC it was about £200 off eBay, it does the job fine but the small separate blast pot I have definitely has more go about it. If I was making one I think one 8' long would be ideal with two sets of arm holes across the front so you can blast everything up to axle size.

£20 says when Stephen fishes it out the scrap bin in a year or two, possibly due to a duff battery it will get a replaceable conversion!

I have fitted several Britpart HD clutches behind standard and tuned TDi's including my own wich outlasted gearboxes, shafts and cvs with lots of trialing and towing. Im not saying they are the best you can buy but I have no issues with using them based on my experience. IIRC they were about £90 for the kit.