Blanco

Swap?

Interesting, thanks for that, easily missed.... ERR4379 has superceded to the M57 equivilent KYF000030, which I think might be useful and STC3362 seems to be an error, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303283889347

Great 'Pioneer' project for the local Venture Scouts tho' 😎

Just caught sight of this, .... did it once with my Ifor (which you saw), and an 8ft .... which was only 7ft wide. The thing which catches you out is that the COG of the load is 4ft up and that made it borderline with the 8ft. It would be trouble with anything bigger or heavier.

So, working on the right hand side of the engine at the moment,.... This oval hole (below) has a rubber bung which is long past it's prime and I would like to replace it. I cannot find the plate or the bung in my parts book, either in the engine section or the gearbox/transmission section. Neither can I find it on the Classic JLR site, ideas welcome. Photo from below facing rearwards....

Well, having got it all dismantled now I can see that I used the self same parts on the last occasion and it is clear that the manifold has been blowing at the heatshield.... looking at the part numbers they all supercede to the later number in each case and mine would be the later one in any case. I have two choices, no heatshield and just use gaskets or try and add thickness to the heatshield somehow?

Slightly different shot of the heat shield, it has kind of attached gasket 'leaves' , I don't think you are meant to use a gasket as well?

Had a little job in the offing for a while now,... want to change out the exhaust manifold for one with a lower mileage turbo. And while I have created the space, check on one or two other issues around that area. To that end I ordered gaskets some time ago. Elring. The first two cylinders incorporate a heat shield, and the gaskets there are entirely metallic. The other 4 are individual gaskets and are a much thicker composite sandwich. There is a difference in thickness of 0.6mm which seems a lot to me? Anyone come across similar issues?

I had an FF30 4 cylinder (built under licence by Hotchkiss) great machine, you'll love it. Sparex and others do most of the bits now, there isn't much that causes trouble.... look forward to seeing how you get on.

A good result,.... I can't help picturing all the youngsters wondering where the digital scale is though!

Interesting... just done a quick search and the particular one we use isn't available, but there are at least a dozen new products that weren't there a year ago when we first looked.

I use fuel stabiliser now for all the club outboards, 4 strokes can give trouble after just 3 weeks doing nothing, I recommend it.

The old cordwood saw is unlikely to be 'tipped' at all, it isn't even likely to be HSS and filing is perfectly usual. One problem is that modern files are essentially disposable now. Best tip I have for that job is to buy a graded set from Bahco or the like and treat it a bit like a chainsaw, even the teeth up with the course and medium files and put the alternate 'set' on them and then put an 'edge' on them with the fine file. A fairly large round file will help keep the gullet shape going Work smart, set the blade up on a table/bench, with a pin or bearing to rotate on and set guides at the outside radius to help with repeatability. Keep your hands off the files, wear gloves, modern files hate being handled. Time in set up massively reduces time spent sharpening. If you have a lot to do, try and get a second blade, use the set up to do two then you can keep working for longer. HTSH

This is where working by yourself gets tough, having Elbekko and the knowledge that's on here is such a boon, fingers are crossed on your behalf in this house, and I am sure many others. 🤞

1440cc of raw power IIRC, hardly what you're used to 😁