scrumps

Hi, My mate had this snag on his 300 TDi Disco the other week. Bought the "slipring/indicator repair kit" (STC 2910) from our local main stealers and fixed it in about half an hour. Only cost about £10 and sounds a lot easier than the above palava. Scrumps

Hi, The half shaft seal should be fairly straightforward. Part No. is FTC4822 (IIRC) Here's how I did it recently:- 1. Take all the usual precautions - axle stands etc and remove the wheel from the offending corner. 2. Release the ABS sensor plug on the inner wing and pass the cable through the hole and release all the clips to the hub. 3. Unscrew the two bolts and release the brake caliper, remove caliper and pads and hang clear of the hub on a piece of rope/wire. 4. Undo the two bolts securing the caliper carrier and remove. 5. Undo the countersunk Phillips screw and remove the brake disc. 6. Undo the four bolts behind the hub assembly and tap out the hub and wheel bearing assembly. 7. Carefully remove the hub and halfshaft whilst threading the ABS wiring out as well. 8. Remove the old oilseal. 9. Tap in the new oilseal (make sure it's the right way round). 10. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal (so says Mr Haynes). 11. Once on it's wheels check the diff oil level. Hope this helps. Regards Scrumps.

Hi, If no-one beats me to it, I'll check when I change my front hub / wheel bearing and CV this weekend. Scrumps

Hi, TD5 G4 manual - 2750rpm = 70mph by speedo (68 mph by GPS). (Cruising speed on the M5 to work everyday !!!) Scrumps

Hi Bear, Both !! I removed the other two fixings and got enough movement to see the problem then I used long nose Mole grips from the lower RHS to come up under the cover and grip the insert. Once the bolt loosened about 1/2 a turn it spun out with my fingers. Scrumps

Hi, I had this problem recently. The bolt screws in to an insert in a small bracket on the o/s of the engine. The insert is only held with friction (serrated edge) and can come loose if the bolt is over tightened. I managed to get a small pair of mole grips under the cover to hold the insert and unscrew the bolt. I then welded the insert in to the bracket so it won't happen again. Scrumps

Hi Rich, If I remember correctly, it was a case of remove the steering wheel and then slide the new bit over the column...but it was about a year ago so my memory might be a bit rusty. Scrumps

Hi, You don;t say what sort of Disco you have but my mate has just had this with his N-reg 300TDi. He bought a new stalk and when we came to fit it we found the plastic "reset ring" around the column had shattered and wasn't able to "trip" the stalk anymore. Our local main stealer had a repair kit (can't remember the part no.) which was about £15. Might be worth removing the steering wheel and chacking before ordering a stalk. Hope this helps. Scrumps.

Hi, Keep an eye on the PAS fluid level as I've just gone through this. Turned out my PAS pipes had turned into Weetabix and were leaking all over the front crossmember. Lovely job to do as they reside below the radiator/intercooler. Ended up being an all day job to replace them. Regards Scrumps.

Hi, I buy my bulk stock for my Model Traction Engine(s) from Parkers (see above in this thread) but for small quantities I use Live Steam Models. Catalogue attached, I reckon you could use 1 1/4" x 5/8" steel @ £8.58 per meter (stock no. 09/1112) Regards Scrumps http://www.livesteammodels.co.uk/pdf/MES2010d.pdf

Does anyone know if the lead needs to be a cable and what purpose it has? Hi, The "cable" (usually a bare metal braid) carries the earth connection from the fixed plate to the moving plate of the advance mechanism and is essential for the dizzy to work. Couple of other things to try:- 1. Is the coil connected the correct way round? Some coils (especially "sports coils") need to be the correct way round or the HT produced will be weak. (Bad experience with my MBG once!!) 2. Are the screws holding the module to the baseplate too long? If so these will limit the movement of the top plate (or increase friction making movement more difficult at low vacuum). At high vacuum the "pull" may overcome the friction and allow correct timing. Regards Scrumps

Hi, Whoever you choose to re-gas your system should be asked to do a vacuum check first. I thought I had a problem on my MGZS but when the garage recovered the gas and applied a vacuum to the system it held for 30mins with no change. Obviously if no air was getting in, the gas shouldn't get out. This is the easiest way to prove if you have a leak (and it doesn't waste any gas). Scrumps

Sorry, Missed that bit...I'll get my coat and never be seen around here again !!!! Scrumps

Hi, Search "all categories" for "Discovery window regulator" and take your pick from the 93 that will currently pop-up Scrumps