fearofweapons

The red spring passes behind the snail cam and onto the post attached to the leading shoe.

So.... Master cylinder changed everything bled through again. No real change. Clamping off the rear gives me a nice hard pedal. I've checked the pads, springs and gaps. All seems good. But with the back unclamped pedal is soft again. Calling it a night and drinking beer.

Thanks all for feedback. I'll try clamping the rubber hoses and see. At least that will isolate if MC, FOS, FNS, Rear are the issues. The pedal does return to it's resting position when released. And yes if I get a good firm pedal constant pressure will usually force the pedal down to the floor - indicating I suppose fluid is still moving somewhere? Be that past the MC seals or still pushing the pads out to the drums. Further info. springs are new springs are behind the shoes/snail cam it breaks much much better in reverse than forwards. It is absolutely throwing it down here today so 'rain has stopped play' but once / if it dries up I'll report back on findings.

Hello, a couple of months ago we had an issue with the front left brake cylinder, which we fixed on the road but decided to replace the wheel cylinder just in case when we got home. One thing led to another and we have ended up replacing the master brake cylinder, all drums, pads and snail cams and bled the system through several times but still can't get a good pedal. Sometimes it goes straight to the floor with minimal resistance and some times will get a half hearted brake and a nice good hard one on the second stroke. I have checked spring placement ( new springs ) going from the peg on the leading shoe to the peg on the back plate and the bottom spring joining both shoes together. Snail cams have been wound wound to stop the hub turning and then back in two clicks/'till the hub turns freely. Any suggestions gratefully received. regards, Richard

Hello! I've just changed the weeping fuel tank on the 1974 SWB SIII. When swapping the fuel pick up and return pipes over to the new tank I noticed that the tubes that dangle in the tank were the same length. (Long in case anyone was wondering 😉) Is this a problem? The car has worked OK(ish) so far. But LR would not have made the return in tank pipe short if there was no reason. Cheers Rich

Thanks to everyone who responded. In the end I bought a length of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140645698414. I gently warmed the ends, after cutting to correct lengths, and the new pipe slipped on nicely. It's a nice snug fit. No leaks yet! Cheers, Rich T

Thanks everyone. I bought a length of this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140645698414

Hi, My fuel spill return pipes are leaking where the old rubber meets the metal pipes from the banjo bolts. I was just going to order up some cotten braided fuel hose and cut to length. Can anyone confirm the internal diameter please? Is it 1/8" ID - 3.2mm x 7mm? My return pipe assy is the later type Err3652. Cheers Richard

Outstanding - many thanks Western 🙂 8 and 20 is not very much - good job I didn't go for the tighten the thing with a long handled spanner. I'll get the Torque wrench on them later and check it's tight enough / not too tight. 😉

Hello! I recently removed and cleaned all four injectors from my 200TDi Defender engine. I've put it back together and it started! So I already feel I'm winning 😉 When reassembling I tightened up the retaining plate/fork/thing on the stud that holds the injector in, but not too tight. Is there a torque setting for this or is it just 'tight'? I don't want to go too far and snap the stud....

Thanks, as always, Simon. I think I'll send them a photo of the connector and tell them to order which ever fits that 😉

Hello! What is the difference between the various fuel sender units in a 110? My rear fuel tank was recently changed and a new fuel sender fitted. The new fuel sender / tank combination leak when the fuel level is up to or above the sender unit. The garage that fitted this reckons it originally had a PRC8463 fitted, I can't recall which P/N they say they have now fitted. However given it's a new tank, and there is only one tank part number, I can't workout the difference between a petrol and diesel sender unit with respect to sealing? Presumably a petrol or diesel sender would seal just as well? So does it matter which one they fit? My 1989 110 200TDi SW has a low fuel light on the dash. Land Rover Defender Sender Units | Paddock - Paddock Spares

Turns out LED lights are much more sensitive to low voltage than old incandescent bulbs. Voltage was under 11v at the econoseal socket. Traced the root cause back to a corroded bullet connector. Replaced bullet connector. 12v found at the econoseal socket. Brake lights now working! 🙂

One day I'll learn to keep my mouth shut... I noticed the nearside (LED) brake light was inoperative the other day. Offside working fine as were the rear lights. Opened everything up. Tested I was getting 12V at the econoseal socket for the brake light; I was. Connected 12v directly to the econoseal plug that connects to the rear brake/light. The brake light worked (as did the rear light circuit so not an earth!) Looks like the connection in the econoseal plug/socket for the brake light has failed but only insomuch as the plug is not connecting to the socket correctly. The actual wire connectors are fine as proven by my testing above. Never seen that before! Ran out of day light before I could start to actually fix it - that's been bumped to the top of the list.

Thanks for the replies gents. Trailer indicator light works as it should with the trailer attached ( filament bulbs ). I was enquiring more about the single flash of the trailer indicator light when no trailer is attached. What was the purpose of this behavior and is it required? Happy with things otherwise 🙂 regards, Richard

Many thanks to all for the pointer to the LED 'tuneable' flasher unit. I bought this one - PRC8876LED WIPAC Land Rover Defender LED Indicator Adjustable Flasher Relay >06 | eBay My trailer indicator light now works as it should when the filament bulbed trailer board is attached. 😀 In 'the old days' pre-LED lamps when the indicators were turned on the trailer lamp on the dash would flash once if no trailer was attached. Looking at the wiring diagram this functionality looks like it was provided by the relay? What was the purpose of this single flash? Do I need it? If I do how do I get it back? And for those who have run LEDs for a while. Have you ever had an indicator lamp fail? Either the because the lamp itself or the wiring failed. If an indicator does fail does the flasher now flash faster? Or can you not tell from inside the car? regards, Richard

Many thanks Western, as always. 🙂

Hi, I have finally reached the point where I have run out of 'spare' bulbs for the warning lights on my '89 110. These are the bulbs that light up on the dash when the indicators flash, or the diff lock is engaged, or oil pressure is low, etc. Can anyone tell me what type these are please? Picture of an old blown one attached. (Can I get LED versions? Is it worth it?)

Many thanks all - I'll take a look and 'upgrade' my flasher if required. ( Apologies for late reply I was on holiday )

Hello, I have recently had the indicators on my 1989 110 converted to LEDs. The Trailer Indicator on the dash no longer single flashes when the indicators are operated nor flashes each time with a trailer attached. Should it? If it should any suggestions on how to get it to do so? My other concern is that with the old filament lamps should one cease to work then that side would flash faster alerting me to a failure. This does not seem to be the case with LEDs. Other than nipping out every few miles to check is there a way to tell if an LED indicator stops working? ( I usually found the failure cause was due to wiring rather than bulbs - the new lamps are fitted to, pretty much, the same wiring. ) regards, Rich

It's fixed price of £75 which includes return postage - unless you want something special / it's so unbeliviably knackered a new one would be cheaper! They did take a look first and sent me a quote. Speedometer (speedograph-richfield.com)

Speedo speedily returned from Speedograph 😄 just need to fix the broken rear half shaft now... 😢

Thanks 29a! I sent it off to Speedograph yesterday - so will see what comes back. 🙂 regards, Richard

Hello! I was making stead progress yesterday in the 1974 SIII 88", about 55mph when the Jager speedo started to make a grating noise and the needle went around to underside of the stop. After a short distance the noise abated and the needle returned to somewhere in the 55MPH region. This happened again, and again until finally the noise was constant and the need jammed up against the underside of the stop. After a couple of mins of this the noise stopped and the needle returned to a resting position against the stop of 0 MPH. I was still making steady progress and the odometer continued to register additional miles travelled. I have removed the speedo and found; a) when nudged by hand the drag cup rotates against the drag spring moving the needle as it should 🙂 b) the part the cable attaches rotates and i) turns the odometer as it should 🙂 ii) turns the thin bar magnet as it should 🙂 However the thin bar magnet does not turn the drag cup - no matter how fast it's turned. 😪 I have tried a drill and spun it 'till I got an extra mile on the odometer not a hint of movement from the drag cup and no noise either. Any ideas on what might have failed? Or it is a question of a new ( to me ) speedo? ( If the latter anyone got a reasonable one for sale they can post or close to Leeds please? ) This is my wife's vehicle and every time I take it out I seem to brake something on it! 😞 regards, Richard

Hello! Anyone on here friends with Warren at Whiterose 4x4? I'm trying to get hold of him and not getting any response 😞 cheers, Rich