KenM

The fuel lines are under pressure would have thought you were more likely to see a leak than suck air in, there is a gauze filter behind the fuel pressure regulator that could be blocked, also worth checking you have enough pressure through the FPR.

If the centre diff is actually engaged or not rotating freely then you will be driving all four wheels when the two in the brake tester start to turn hence it has jumped out. The mot tester did not have to test the brakes that way.

Hi did you resolve the previous issues you had with the centre diff locking? I had similar symptoms to what you mention in the start of this thread which turned out to be the thrust washers for the planet gears in the centre diff which had broken up and the bits were jamming up the centre diff. They are quite easy to rebuild. When you had the mot test it is not the ideal way to test the brakes with just the front or back wheels in the rollers as this can damage the centre diff, but most testers will do this if you let them.

I bought 4 from Paddocks about 5 years ago cant remember the exact price but was under £60 each, turned up in Landrover boxes. They were new not service exchange.

Leave the timing pin out of the pump, and move the sprocket one tooth, then see how it is, as has been mentioned there is a possibility that the fip hub is not aligned correctly, once you have moved round a tooth you will have another range of adjustment to play with.

You need to slacken the timing belt move the fip sprocket one tooth then retension the timing belt.

If you have run out of adjustment on the fip turn the fip sprocket a tooth on the belt this will give you further room for adjustment, it sounds like you are going in the right direction and maybe the sprocket hub is not correctly alignedon the fip shaft.

Earths are the girst chech, but what i have had twice is that as the battery ages they still show good volts but loose that little bit of oomph so that the engine still turns over quite well but take a while to start, new battery back to starting at a flick of the key.

Its the equivelent of pulling a plug lead of a petrol engine you should notice a change in the engine if you have a heavy kock it might lessen or disappear or if you hear no or very little change these could point to injector problems ypour really listening to see if you have the same change on each injector. If you do notice much difference on any injectors try swapping a couple round that way you will know if its rhe injector or a problem with that cylinder.

Have you had the front cover off to check the timing? You need to check not only with the timing pins in the flywheel and injection pump but also that the cam is in the correct position. You could also loosen the nuts on the top of the injectors one at a time whilst it running and listen to the change in note, if so this could point to problems with the injectors or at least problems with certain cylinders, good luck.

I've always found a bit of washing up liquid works wonders.

I would first check the timing is spot on, sounds lit sounds like sticking injector(s) whilst ticking over crack of the injector pipes onto the injectors 1 at a time you should notice which injector is causing the problem, good luck

Snagger, thanks for your reply I did wonder if a faulty injector could have been an issue. Ken

I shouid have mentioned that the engine has done 186k thanks Ken

Hi everyone Over the last couple of days there has been a gradual loss of power and has started smoking (blue). I decided to take the head off and have a look, this is what I found, Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused this, the other bores and pistons were really good, what to do now though, anyone got a decent engine for sale. Any thoughts will be gratefully appreciated. many thanks Ken