jetmorgan

Well my Discovery will be going into the garage tomorrow for a look at the blowing exhaust and seeing what needs to be fixed, I have soot deposits at the join between the centre box and the catalytic convertor and I'm just hoping it's not a new cat section that is needed as the centre section was only replaced last year. The engine misfiring has now been sorted out, corroded HT lead and dampness in the distributor cap so they and the spark plugs have all been replaced. But I have an oil leak on the engine, in fact I completely ran out of oil at some point and it had been running on nothing for god knows how long. I had the engine flushed out completely and new oil with filters. But I have a leak that seems to be somewhere at the front of the engine, and at the top as it's oily at the very front of the engine and nowhere else. I have noticed the gasket under the rocker covers are damp with oil so I'm guessing that this might be the problem so at some point I will get the gaskets changed but while I'm getting that done are there any other common oil leak areas on the 3.9 V8i ??? so I can get them done at the same time. I have no idea if the garage took the sump off and replaced the gasket there during the oil flush as there is no mention on the bill about a replacement sump gasket. Car is a 1998 Discovery1 V8i ES......and still lots more jobs to get done before the next MOT comes up in December

I've discovered on my Discovery that the hoses on the wash wipe system have started to perish so all I can clean at the moment is the inside of the near side head lamp mount. I need to replace the hoses and I will also take the opportunity to replace the headlamp washers as well they haven't worked since i bought the car. It looks like they have actually been disconnected. I've been trying to find a diagram of the system so I can figure out what other parts I might need. Does anyone have a diagram they could post or email me. I have a pair of new aftermarket headlamp washer jets on order with Rimmer Bros and 10 metres of hosepipe but just need to find out if I need any Tee's or anything else. Oh and before anyone suggest googling it I have already done so and found a very small picture of the system that I can only just see with my eyesight and is all in Russian!!!

Can anyone help with possible causes of an intermittant starting problem I have on my S reg 1998 Discovery 1 3.9V8 ES. It has decided, when it feels like it, to not want to turn over when i try and start her....absolutely nothing...not even a crank over in sight. However the electrics all work perfectly fine. It's only done it 3 times since I got her in July...the first time I had left her in gear, so that was easily solved. The second and third times were when parked in the local Waitrose car park, unlock the car after a quick bit of shopping, turn the key and the electrics all come on but no engine. Check to see if it's in gear and no she's in park but still no engine...tried locking then unlocking and still nothing. Eventually both times I had to wait around for a while and she decided that she was going to restart...one time when the recovery man turned up and asked to see what the problem was. I had only driven about a mile from my work to the shop and she doesn't do it all the time. I presume there is some electical problems somewhere but don't really know where to start so I'm looking for a list that I can work through or I can get the local spanner man to have a look at. Or is it a case that the engine might be just starting to get a bit warm and then when I swtich off an engine temp sensor thinks the engine is over heating so won't start. I know it's probably like asking how long a piece of string is.

After collecting my Discovery 1 V8i ES last weekend I'm starting to put together a niggle list so I can then make a priority list of jobs to get done in the near future and the far future. Like all other Discovery's my girl suffered the usual sunroof leaks and the previous owner taped up the sunroof and replaced the headlining. I'm having thinks about getting the sunroofs sorted and working again but I think the previous owner put the wrong headlining in. Am I right in thinking that the ES model, as top of the range, came with electric sunroofs front and back and not windy handle ones??? Is it a simple matter of taking out the windy handles and replacing them with the electric buttons or will I need a complete new headlining??? Looking at forums and youtube the common fault with leaking sunroofs is where the water gather around the seal and drips through the channel before heading down a tube to the rain water gutter.

Well after saying goodbye to my old 200TDi Defender I have now joined the Discovery family and just purchased a 1998 Discovery 1 V8i ES. It seems a bit of a gift horse at the moment although there are a few issues I'd like to sort out. One of them being the drivers seat. I don't know what one of the previous owners spilt in his lap but it's given a stain on the leather. I'm hoping that a lot of leather cleaner and elbow grease will sort it out but if not then I'd like to retrim it but browsing and search on tint-er-net has brought up bugger all. I know Exmoor trim do re-trim kits but not for the later seats with headrest. Is there anyone out there who does do a DIY re-trim kit??? Once that is done I can look at getting the leaking sunroof sorted out...then the exhaust centre silencer, electric seat buttons, air con, intermittant cruise control and the tyre sizes sorted out.

While doing other jobs to refurbish my 1990 110 200Tdi Defender, I've been having a look at the seat box compartments. The one under the drivers seat is rusting away quicker than an Alfa Sud so will need replacement, I was going to just do a like for like replacement but as it is a smaller box than the battery box is it possible to get a larger version for more storage space? The battery box is fine, no real signs of corrosion however it does have 3 large holes that were for wiring grommets. There is no wiring going through these holes so I want to blank them off, with all this rain and flooding I tend to find a puddle of water sitting in the bottom. I'm struggling to find a supplier of the right size...done internet searches etc etc...even looked on the Halfords website, so can anyone suggest a supplier of the right size 35/36mm rubber blanking plugs

How old is the vehicle? My 1990 Defender thumps and bumps over the road which it has done ever since I bought it 14 years ago and I think it's still on it's original shocks and springs, with the exception of one shock. Don't forget that with the condition of todays roads you'll get a sudden drop when going over drain covers that have sunk or where the tarmac is falling apart. Does the steering feel a bit more vague than it used to, or the vehicle feel like it's wandering about the road? I found that when one of my rear shocks went you could just start to feel the car steering a little bit to one side.

I'm in the process of replacing the doors on my 1991 200 Tdi Defender. I have some donor doors from another LR Forum member and I was in the process of removing the push button door handles to replace the locks but 2 of the screw fixings have bust and I've had to drill them out. I'm going to replace them with new handles now but I see there are 2 different versions listed on Paddocks & John Craddocks website part no's MXC7651 & 7652 for chassis nos to 1A622423. And CXB500200PMA & 210PMA from 2A622424. I don't know what age the donor doors are...is there much of a difference between the 2 types and can I fit one of the later door handles to an older door?

Like a lot of people here I'd recommend the Co-Op or NFU, I've found the NFU a bit pricey but they'll be used to insuring all sorts of Land Rovers and I'm currently with the Co-Op and still one of the cheapest around after 3 years. One thing with the Co-op is if you also join their membership scheme you can get paid dividends twice a year depending on how much money you spend with them in the year Frankly I wouldn't give Tesco's the time of day...I always feel soiled and degraded when I've been forced to use the local Tesco Express so I'm certainly not giving them money for insurance every month. As they are bent on world domination I'm suprised their logo isn't a man in a swivel seat stroking a white cat!!!

Good for blow drying the hair after a morning shower though

This is a bit off topic but does relate to my 110 Defender Tdi As is common on most Defenders the bottom of my doors is rusting away...just held together by the paint at the moment. I have new bits of steel to weld in to fix the problem and give me a new door frame but it'll require the removal of the door for a few days. So is it legal or illegal to drive the vehicle with the drivers side door missing...I'll still have 2 rear view mirrors, cab and near side mirror...seat belts will be in place and working. I often see UPS vans around here that have sliding drivers doors with that wide open...although not at this time of year obviously!!!

I have exactly the same problem and I know that is the elastic band that goes round the alternator. I know it's loose as the alternator is only held on by the bolt on the adjustment bracket at the moment, and as you describe when you put your foot down and the engine speeds up the noise gets worse. Also the belt as a few teeth missing so is will be replaced when I get the new alternator mounting bracket

You know I thought I felt and earthquake the other night...now I know!!!

Yes I've had the same problem, it was fine one day then no access the next This website was given to me by a member which I've found really useful for part no's and diagrams http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover

Many thanks for that link...just what I've been looking for