cipx2

Or get the 'other' spanner. See this thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52454

If you would have clicked the link I gave you in my previous post, you would have found out the thread size and the threads per inch count. The pic is for finding out how long the threaded part is (by counting the threads and knowing the tpi), I thought might be useful. Hopefully someone else will come along, click the link above and copy/paste the info for you, 'cause I didn't ever understand how do it either

From the above link:

I don't think it's the big end or mains. A damaged big end or main bearing would explain the noise but not the power loss. On the other hand, big ends bearings going out of the blue is not common on 300tdis, only 200tdis. More likely something wrong on the top end. You can start by inspectng under the rocker cover.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19971 + easy to count in the pic:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38687

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42767

Either use 2 small screwdrivers (pointed tools) to get one them behind the snap ring or use a pair of circlip pliers in between the ring ends and rotate it to force one of the ends towards inside to insert a small screwdriver behind it. Then work your way behind it all the way. Watch your fingers and eyes!

Tornado is the later name/version of the Freestyle (or vice versa?). From left to right: FreeStyle/Tornado, Deep Dish, Styled, Cyclone, Castor, Boost. Never heard of "Sculptured", perhaps it reffers to Styled.

I'm sure you can find the bearings locally (see Les' thread about replacing the bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner in the tech archive for complete SKF designation - those are the best bearings for the job I know of). Yes, all 3 bearings are the same and it's easier to replace the 2 ones on the AC belt than on the serpentine belt tensioner (they have normal circlips). One other reason for a squeak is the AC belt tensioner wears out (like being made of chocolate) - the belt 'digs' a groove in it. Do the water test on the belt near the tensioner to see if that's the case. If yes, put a thin washer on the bolt between the tensioner bearing and the arm to bring the wheel forward a little bit. Or get a new tensioner to do it properly.

Only post 07MY D3s have a manual reset procedure. Up to 07My is software reset only. If you plan keep on servicing the D3 yourself, one option is to get a service reset tool from Blackbox Solutions for about 45 quid, see http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/downloads/prices/BLACKBOX_BASICBITS_PRICE_LIST.pdf - bottom of the list.

Seems to be an intermittent issue. Most likely an imperfect contact at the sender (internal or at the plug), its connection to ground or along the line to the gauge (the line includes 5 connectors - plenty to go wrong). It's not like the Series sender. It doesn't have a separate circuit/switch for the low fuel warning light. The sender has only the variable resistor connected to 2 devices: the fuel gauge and the warning light electronic circuit. The light is turned on by this separate electronic circuit when the resistance is beyond a certain value for more than 3 seconds. Could be the above circuit at fault as well but less likely.

When the fuel light comes one, roughly how much time it stays on and what happens to the gauge needle while the light stays on?

50 quid of diesel at the January UK average of 114p/litre means 43.86 litres. 140 miles on 43.83 litres means 14.5 mpg - that's low, unless you drove offroad or heavy snow. Maybe you're loosing fuel - back of the engine from the pressure regulator or top of the fuel tank from a pipe - these are two common places on D2 Td5s. Or maybe you're doing very short runs (3-5 mile journeys), let it run in the morning until it heats up inside, have and use a fuel heater (webasto).

Nope, no ideas. But saying what Discovery is it might trigger some