Ally V8

Sensor out of range is usually where the car is driven on its bumpstops or the same but with a bumpstop missing.This allows the axle to deflect more than hence the out of range signal.If the car is left long enough to settle right down I always advise customers to let the air build up and get the car off the ground before driving off.

By coincidence I look after a Japanese 4.6v8 P38. Its a 1998 50th anniversary model with about 40k on it. Just last week it was in for an EAS fault,which was caused by the drive pack failing on the valve block. It gave codes for something like RHF signal incorrect. Which it clearly wasn't. After a bit of diagnostic checking and subbing over a secondhand drive pack normal service was resumed. The point of me telling you this is that the codes don't always pinpoint the exact fault, but the good news is that the Japanese cars had the same ecu,codes are the same etc. Can you tell us what your car reported ?

It's not that simple,the engine ecu from the auto will put the engine management lamp on because it wont see the autobox ecu that it talks to in the Disco.(It may also make the temp gauge read wrongly) It will also need a security learn procedure to receive the correct code from the Defenders alarm ecu. Better to swop the engine over on its own and put the Defender injectors back in it,(If they are Ok) with new seals and washers. That way no diagnostic input is needed.

What are you reading the codes with ? In the past on many occasions I was asked by garages in a similar situation,a lamp on but apparently no codes. When I put Testbook on it there would always be a code there.Not saying this is your situation,but may be worth bearing it in mind.

There is no problem at all in disconnecting the battery on a D2, you will have to reset the clock after,and maybe put the code back into the radio if it needs it. It won't forget any of its running settings in the BCU,instrument pack or SLABS ecu.

Why not just change the RF receiver to the later spec - YWY500170.

That picture shows it without the blade fitted,I have a few of them,they use a steel razorblade type thing,very good when they are sharp. Often an old file ground smooth,then sharpened with a 30 degree edge at about 30 degrees to the length of the file is just as useful.And lasts pretty much forever,AND I can make them to suit my left handed self...

Are you able to cycle it through all the ride heights ? If its sitting on its bumpstops it will be bouncy. The airsring/damper units are generally reliable.If it sits level all around has anyone done a diagnostic check on it ?

Even that is fraught with problems unless you are very lucky.I currently have a 2009 TDV8 Sport in to sort out for its owner.(Who has had RR's since the early 70's) Low enough mileage at 68,000, and well looked after.Has recurring turbo actuator faults,leaky ACE bar on the rear and PDC faults. Just got rid of a 2010 L322 TDv8, again low mileage,well looked after etc. Rusty arches,inner sills and a very scabby chassis.Also had front PDC ,ABS/TC and random alarm trigger issues.The low coolant sensor failed the last time I drove it back to its owner who gave up and sold it via one of the internet buy any cr-p sites. Like I said,I tend to see the bad ones,but blimey -They are bad,not because they have been farmered like a 300Tdi Defender,they are made of poor quality parts and are poorly finished.

Just remember they are all getting old now,so the known problems will change.Rust is becoming a factor to consider too.Loom faults from thin,poorly protected wiring can be difficult to trace,and turbo / EGR faults on the diesels never seem far away. But then I only see the broken ones...

Under the two black circles on the first pic are two shear headed bolts.You need to remove these bolts or very carefully break up that black unit to reveal the stop solenoid underneath it.The stop solenoid then just needs battery voltage applied to it for the engine to run.

Make sure the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator has not split. I have dealt with this problem before,it literally floods the inlet manifold with fuel and will quickly ruin the bores,pistons and rings of the cylinders which suck it in.

And whatever you do,don't buy the parts from Euro...

ECP couldn't organise a drinks party in a brewery. Even if they supply the correct parts the quality is likely to be poor. This is not my opinion, it's what all my mates in the trade say, I've never bought anything off them.

Absolutely, the local factor I use has the DVLA access system. Melksham motor spares, they are brilliant some of them even say hello Jon before I even speak as they recognise my workshop phone number. I just give them a rego and say "oil,air, fuel and pollen" quick chat about the state of the motor trade and say cheerio. They are rarely wrong and will send out choices of parts if there is no way of telling what is fitted or if I don't yet have the vehicle in. Not the cheapest, but truly excellent service.