red90 driver

Neil, I don't dispute that Kirton is a really good site, but finances just will not permit.... I would have loved to have done 6 rounds this year, or even all four of the NW series, but thats life. We will be doing Mow Cop and Wigan for sure. Any other events will be a bonus.

Bloody hell! Thats 2 out 4 sites that involve a 300 mile round trip. 4 hours driving before we start, then 4 hours back. Don't think I'll be doing many of these events this year methinks! Good job we won the Challenge North West trophy for this year. Whats happened to the map of the UK that I was taught? Since when has Kirton and Peterborough been relocated to the North West? Next year the NW will include Maidstone and Aberdeen.....

David Llama. Made us hoses with all the correct fittings, also hoses are ATF resistant as ordinary hydraulic hoses are not.

Zim - you're right as I push my splined shaft all the way home to show that something is wrong. Many thanks for the info, I did'nt know if the shaft was different or it was just a spacer missing. Cheers, Nick

Greeting all, I have recently installed 2 milemarker Type 'R' hydraulic winches on the truck. One works perfectly, the other has a strange issue...... It will sometimes put itself into high speed mode, and I cannot get it back out again. I have taken the offending winch to pieces (other one takes 2 hours to extract, so have not opened that one to compare yet) The splined drive shaft that goes through the center of the drum and then the gearbox seems to 'float'. When the high speed gear is selected, it should move onto the splined shaft, when dis-engaged, it should leave the splined shaft and allow the drum to rotate normally. However, the entire shaft on my winch can move into the high speed gear without that gear being engaged by the external lever. High speed NOT engaged: High speed Engaged: I don't think this should be able to do this...... On doing some research, http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=25692 (No pictures now it seems), here is a picture of the shaft taken from that topic: Here is a picture of my shaft: As you should see, there is a clear difference between the 2 shafts. (The shoulder before the splines...) Can someone have a look at theirs to see if their shaft is the same as mine?

Looking forward to this seeing as our truck is just about ready after nearly 2 years in build / rebuild. I take it that an MSA Clubman B license is required? Membership of AWDC?

Ok, will try tomorrow with the warmup wizard and look at the AE aettings. I think I read in the megamanual that there is fast reovery settings which should be tweaked?

From a closed throttle, and I go to accelerate, there is a single splutter from the engine, sounds like a 'cough' then it accelerates just right. I have calibrated the TPS, and checked that it goes from 0 to 100% smothly with no hesitation or jumps. The engine will also hunt slightly when warming up, it's not major but I can hear it swing about 100-150 revs. I assume now that I will have to tune with the wideband lambda that I have borrowed, and to be fair with the MS set to adjust from the lambda sensor, it fuels correctly, but have no where that I can drive it legally, so live tuning is out of the question. This is why I wanted someone to tweak the fuelling as I can't leave the lambda in whilst offroad because of water cooling the sensor down and the engine running very rich as it tried to compensate.

Can any of you please enlighten me as to why I am finding it impossible to get any dyno tuning places to help me to tweak the map on the megasquirt? Everything is fine until I say that the truck is an auto. Then there seems to be a collective indrawn hiss of breath and a 'Ooo, no can't tune an auto. Thats too difficult that is mate. Sorry!' All I need is the map tweaking as it's running a bit on the rich side, and I can't live map it as we are not road legal! Can anyone point me in the direction of a person that would/could sort my map out, somewhere close-ish to Wrexham? This is a map from Nige (V8 megasquirt) for a bog standard 3.9 serp running Megasquirt and Edis ignition, with an auto gearbox. Pretty please?

If you have not been to a winch event yet, then I suggest the pay and play day on 26/11 run by Rogue Pirates near Matlock to see what its all about! There is several (to my knowledge) full challenge trucks going. Contact 3spins for details. If you know whats involved, then download the regs for the LRS, read carefully and get your truck to comply with them. Get your entry in as it is a heavily subscribed series. Next, get your MSA clubman B license in January Find a willing (or unwilling) co-driver. Finally wait to see if your name is down. Personally, I would enter as a basic truck with a single winch as it is the cheapest way. And go do some play days that involve collecting punches, before trying a proper comp.....

I've got ours working from the tach output signal on the MS. Worked straight away and no other changes required.

Will that same pump also run the std steering box as well? With regards to the force exerted by the ram, I've got the calcs, but have no idea about what pressure and flow a ported 300TDi will give..... If I could drop onto a ZF74 pump, would that be the better option?

Does anyone have any sound words of advice regarding setting up a challenge truck with rear wheel steer? I am playing with a Disco 2 front axle with a view to using it as a basis for a hydraulically controlled steerable axle. So far, I will probably use a single ended ram, 50mm bore, 200mm stroke and 25-30mm rod diameter, pushing/pulling on the knuckle while a drag link arrangement ensures both wheels turn together. I want to know what power steering pump will have enough flow and pressure to run the rear axle while still using the standard (if possible) steering box on the front? I've had a look at some of the stuff that PSC in the states are selling but not had a reply from them yet. Would I also transfer the knuckles from this front axle onto a rear axle, or mod the front axle to fit onto the rear? I'm already using airshox and modded disco 2 front arms.... what sort of caster angle for the rear? People on pirate seem to suggest either 0 degrees (for low speed) or somewhere around twice the front caster angle for higher speed self centring..

Daf and I will be there I think. Should be another good turnout from the Welsh(ish) bunch. We all enjoy Wern Ddu, unlike the lightweights amongst us. It's no harder or more dangerous than anywhere else we've been. Infact, anywheres better than Holymoorside from a co-drivers point of view!! The 2 day event last year was really good, and I'm looking forward to this years event.

Well after talking to several peeps now, it seems quite common for what I think is excessive creep. I don't want to drop the tickover any more than the 750 rpm it is now because of stalling the engine when I engage the hydraulic pump. Therefore, I will just have to live with it! Thanks for everyones input, I'm just an old woman!!