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Dlander

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    http://www.richardhawes.co.uk

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    Southampton Hampshire

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    Gettin muddy

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  1. Had a great weekend some videos have been posted on my Facebook page of me testing the megasquirt
  2. Bookings are coming in for this event, please can anyone who is thinking of coming please get in touch so we can have a good idea of numbers Bookings can be made through www.7Sisters.co.uk The v8 megasquirted dlander will be there for those that have been following the rebuild on facebook Rich
  3. Hi some of you know I have been fitting a V8 to the Dlander following the demise of yet another oil burner. (I will post a build thread at some point with some pictures). Anyone who has seem me out in the truck will know i might need a bit of waterproofing, so the only way to go is megasquirt and EDIS. I have been having some trouble but have solved them now and I promiosed Nige that i would post some details here so others can make of it what they will. I am using a relay board due to the lack of any wiring loom for a petrol engine fuel relays etc. and MS1 V3 ecu, I have also had addition work on the ecu to run a fan relay which switches on the return. Got the whole kit from Nige (www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk) who i have to say has been very helpful and a great support as has Fridge Freezer who modded the ecu for me. Ok so I fitted it all, and apart from a couple of teething problems got the motor running, but thats when the problems started. Shortly after getting it going the engine started to run very lumpy and very rich the coolant temperature and the manifold temperature both started reading -40C, then the engine cut out and died no amount of turning over would get it to start again. The TPS had lost its settings and thought it was wide open on cranking so wouldnt fire the injectors. Some phone calls and Nige sent me the readings for all the sensors. Out with the multimeter and started taking measurements at the CT and MAT sensors, and the TPS which was sending 5v back down the ground wire, FF tells me is what it should do, and that it should then go through an earth on pin 19 of the DB37 lead to the ecu. so on checking the leads all this was happening correctly. But if i removed all the ground wires for the CT MAT and TPS and sent them directly to ground they all worked fine. Great, but then it just moved the problem on, as then the fuel air ratio stopped working and the O2 reading went west as well. All this was getting me a tad frustrated and i nearly pushed the truck outside and set light to it. Instead I drank a bottle of red and set about searching the net for some solutions. It would appear that there has been some difficulties with wiring relay boards and grounds. The main earth from the board says it should go to engine ground, and all the others go back to the relay board and then on to the ecu. (with all the wires connected on the 37 pin lead except 25,27,29,31 as these are not needed). This was exactly what i had done and all was checking out. The lambda has the two ground wires, one is for the heater and the other the sensor. The heater was earthed in the engine bay the other i had taken back to the relay board and used the spare earth in the PWM relay slot. This I copied from Sam's instal post on here. For some reason this was what was causing the problems in my set up. After reading some forums for Japanese cars I came across someone who was having similar symptoms to me, and had got so fed up with it he had dumped the relay board and connected everything back to the ecu which then cured his problems, but in his post he said he had earthed the lambda to the engine and the ECU to the battery. This got me thinking about the lambda wires. I swapped the engine earth to the lamda and the battery earth to the relay board and voila it all works as it should........ Dont ask me why I have no idea, all i know is i've had it running in the workshop all afternoon without a problem. Berore anyone asks there are three new braided earth cables from chassis to engine and the battery earths to chassis are all good. Also to give everyone a laugh...... in my lack of confidence in myself i thought i must have the DB37 wired the wrong way round so swapped all the wires over and guess what - it wasnt so had to swap them back again. Anyone who has wired up one of thses leads will know what a complete PITA they are -- to do it twice is just stupid! Anyway thanks to Nige and FF for thier understanding and support, now i can fininsh putting the truck back together and get it down for an MOT after Easter so i can then get on with tuning it ready for Summer Sisters in Wales in June
  4. Hi I'm putting a v8 in the Dlander and I want to move the engine forward so it sits in its normal position in the chassis currently the r380 gearstick is in the correct position with the 300tdi engine 10 inches back from its normal position running modified props. Because the v8 will need plugs changing access will be a problem if its 10 inches back. Also it would be nice to be able to run standard propshafts Here's the problem if I put the v8 in its correct position it will presumably move the gear lever 10 inches forward and put it under the dash. Has anyone played with the selector unit that hangs off the back of the p38 box and can this be made to fit a disco r380? Does anyone have one that they would donate to the cause or sell really cheaply so I can play? Cheers Richard
  5. We will be there with the camel on the camel stand. @landroversforever As far I know SHIRES are not having a stand there this year, but I think they are planning to have one at Land Rover MAX though. Rich
  6. As someone who regularly uses,has slept in, and lived in tents since I was eight, the best all round tent material is canvas not man made materials hence why most popular roof tents are expensive but they keep out light as well as the weather. Aside from the tent/ground debate, the vango airbeam has to use its origional pump because the valves wont accept normal airline fittings, also the beams are only inflated to 5psi (from their data sheet) which most off the shelf compressor systems will not be able to cope with as it is too low. While Vango say it will cope with gusts up to 75mph, I would like to see the test where this figure was calculated. 5psi is not much to provide regidity across an arch. Oh and if anyone is interested I have an easyawn touring roof tent on my camel and we use it most weekends we can get away, and for all our holidays in all weathers. In fact when we got married the new wife when asked if she wanted to spend the first night of her honymoon in a hotel or in the roof tent chose the rooftent. Its all a matter of personal taste but for us it works great. Hope what you decide works for you all the best Rich
  7. Grip was no problem, there was more water on Saturday but less on Sunday but the hidden rocks made picking your way carefully quite important there are some videos on you youtube i will try to post below; Thanks to Muddyrice for the solonoid so i had a winch on sunday. Was a fantastic weekend and great to catch up with those that i usually only see once year. Cant wait for september Rich Dlander
  8. Two hoodies please one for me and one for the missus hers wil be medium and mine XL Will collect at the event Cheers Rich
  9. For anyone doing London to brighton from Hampshre or Dorset who want to travel up together for the weekend Shire's will be meeting at Winchester Services on the M3 at about eleven on Saturday 25th. Club members or not all welcome to join in. Richard
  10. Glad to hear that you are ok, the chap who kindly offered to take you to the hospital was Tim, I cant really give out peoples details but I can pass on your contact details to him and ask him to get in touch or ask if he minds me giving you his details. Let me know. Richard (Chair of Vice ShireLRC)
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