Puffernutter

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About Puffernutter

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday August 4

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.whissgig.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Trowbridge, Wiltshire

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Breeding and showing Clumber Spaniels and Italian Spinone. Restoring and showing Classic Cars - Rover P5B and TR7 on the road with a Stag and P4 under restoration
  1. The stop solenoid will only require little current to keep it open enough to let enough fuel through to idle. Step 1 is when it is doing this to remove the feed to the stop solenoid at the stop solenoid and prove this is the problem. If this is the case, the stop solenoid is getting a small leakage current and it may not be the lighting circuit, it could be anywhere as electricity is fickle stuff! Let us know if it stops with the feed removed. Cheers Peter
  2. Diesel? Cheers Peter
  3. Too late now but an Ed China trick! Leave the existing belt in place and then cut it in half lengthwise. When the cut is complete, remove the outer half. Then place the new belt so it is half way across the pulleys loosening the tensioner slightly to fit if needed. Then cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. Push the new belt fully on. Cheers Peter
  4. A long time since I played with a 12J (I used to have one in my 110), but doesn't one pulley have two revolutions w.r.t the other having just 1? Could you be 180 degrees out? Cheers Peter
  5. 13.8 to 14.4v A multimeter across the battery terminals should be sufficient. Most engines should charge at idle. Increase the revs to see if anything changes. Looks like a diode gone in the diode pack. Cheers Peter
  6. Diode possibly? Cheers Peter
  7. The charge light actually creates a small amount of current that starts the alternator charging, which then self excites and when that point is reached, the charging light goes out, so you know it is working! Simples! It's normally a spade connector. Cheers Peter
  8. You need the thin wire to excite the alternator, it may not even kick in, even at high revs. Cheers Peter
  9. Can of worms! If a tacho for a petrol engine that takes a feed from the ignition, then generally all you set up is the number of cylinders. If you're taking pulses from an alternator it depends on how many pulses/revolution from the alternator and the pulley sizes from the crank pulley to the alternator pulley! I'd buy a tacho for a petrol engine that is driven off the coil if you could - by far and away the easiest solution! Cheers Peter
  10. With a diesel its usually the alternator (which isn't a function on earlier Landies). With a petrol it depends on the tacho. Some tachos use a wire from the coil looped around the tacho (forms a single turn), others are a direct connection. What instructions came with it? Cheers Peter
  11. I had a 1990 110 (initially 19J then 200Tdi) that I converted to a veggie. It took a while to tweak the system, but this is what I ended up with. Twin tanks. A small tank of diesel was installed behind the centre middle seat. I also installed a heater unit on the oil line (fed from the cooling water system) a changeover valve, did the feed AND return (stops you feeding oil back to the diesel!) and a temperature switch (70degC) on the heater. The engine was always started on diesel. When the engine was sufficiently warm, the temperature switches automatically swapped from diesel to veggie (I had an indicator on the dash that showed the state of the valve (red - diesel, green - veggie!) about 1 mile before I was about to get to my destination, I would flip a switch that out the engine back onto diesel to purge the veggie. That would leave it in a state ready to start again the next time. I also had a hidden switch that would allow me to force a switch either way. The only thing I would do differently is to have a slightly larger tank of diesel and either a fuel gauge on that tank or a warning when it was getting low. If you want more details, send me a message. Cheers Peter
  12. I assume this is an auto? Remove the inspection panel from the bell housing and have a close look at the sensor used to detect engine position. Look for the sensor itself being bent. Alternatively, turn the engine over and have a look at the pins too look for any bent or missing ones. There should be 35 pins with one missing and that gap tells the engine where TDC is. On my GEMS, one of the pins was damaged (actually missing) and what happened was that the engine correctly identified TDC, then about 40 odd degrees later, re-identified it! I ended up putting a new 36-1 toothed wheel and sensor behind the front crank pulley - a kit of parts is available from one of the mods on here. Cheers Peter
  13. Pictures of winch as requested.

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    1. Puffernutter

      Puffernutter

      Thank you.  Stupid question!!  Would an electric winch fit in its place?

      Alternatively, any idea of the cost (or supplier) of the PTO bits and pieces?

      Cheers

      Peter

       

    2. Roosterrs

      Roosterrs

      Honest answer is I don't know. Could try the LR winches website for PTO bits.

    3. Puffernutter

      Puffernutter

      I'll take it anyway. Happy to wait until December fro me to collect, would you like paying now?

      I still need to look at the 90 for a towbar - I'll do that later and let you know.

      Cheers

      Peter

  14. Sold both mine....... Wallet a lot heavier now :-)
  15. Generally experience has shown that if you replace one part (master or slave) the un-replaced part will then quickly fail! It could be the master having failed with a new slave, there is potentially more pressure which puts extra stress on the seals that quickly expire (and vice-versa). Just my 2d and experience! Cheers Peter