Puffernutter

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About Puffernutter

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday August 4

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  • Website URL
    http://www.whissgig.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Trowbridge, Wiltshire

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Breeding and showing Clumber Spaniels and Italian Spinone. Restoring and showing Classic Cars - Rover P5B and TR7 on the road with a Stag and P4 under restoration
  1. I assume this is an auto? Remove the inspection panel from the bell housing and have a close look at the sensor used to detect engine position. Look for the sensor itself being bent. Alternatively, turn the engine over and have a look at the pins too look for any bent or missing ones. There should be 35 pins with one missing and that gap tells the engine where TDC is. On my GEMS, one of the pins was damaged (actually missing) and what happened was that the engine correctly identified TDC, then about 40 odd degrees later, re-identified it! I ended up putting a new 36-1 toothed wheel and sensor behind the front crank pulley - a kit of parts is available from one of the mods on here. Cheers Peter
  2. Pictures of winch as requested.

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    1. Puffernutter

      Puffernutter

      Thank you.  Stupid question!!  Would an electric winch fit in its place?

      Alternatively, any idea of the cost (or supplier) of the PTO bits and pieces?

      Cheers

      Peter

       

    2. Roosterrs

      Roosterrs

      Honest answer is I don't know. Could try the LR winches website for PTO bits.

    3. Puffernutter

      Puffernutter

      I'll take it anyway. Happy to wait until December fro me to collect, would you like paying now?

      I still need to look at the 90 for a towbar - I'll do that later and let you know.

      Cheers

      Peter

  3. Sold both mine....... Wallet a lot heavier now :-)
  4. Generally experience has shown that if you replace one part (master or slave) the un-replaced part will then quickly fail! It could be the master having failed with a new slave, there is potentially more pressure which puts extra stress on the seals that quickly expire (and vice-versa). Just my 2d and experience! Cheers Peter
  5. My experience with "death wobble" on a 110 is that it never just one thing! There are usually a number of culprits causing the problem and an equal number of mitigations that prevent/reduce it! Loose swivels are a favourite cause, panhard bushes and steering dampers (in my experience) are the prime mitigations. Once you lose the benefit of new bushes or the damper is less efficient, the death wobble will return! In the end I fitted a sprung damper and that solved it! Good luck with the steering box! I used to remove a few bolts from the top (to give me access) and I had a Snap On track rod end bush splitter and a bl00dy great lump hammer. It would come eventually! Cheers Peter
  6. Cutting out may be a number of things, although I would be doubtful if it were the crank sensor. My problem was that the flex plate shattered and I hadn't realised that it had created a new gap in the timing pins! It wouldn't start or if it did, only briefly and ran like a bag of nails with back firing etc. In the end, rather than pull the box again and change the flywheel complete I fitted a new slotted disc at the front, behind the crank pulley and used a Ford sensor (supplied by a moderator of this forum). That started an ran sweetly. However to stop totally could be ignition related, or maybe even mobiliser related. If it does it again see what (if anything) comes up on the speedo display. Cheers Peter
  7. It may be a bent pin. Do you have access to a Nanocom? It wont help with the crank sensor, but may with other issues? Cheers Peter
  8. The crank sensor (if it is the same as my 4.6 GEMS) will quite happily work in a puddle of oil as it is magnetic! I'd pop the inspection cover off and turn the engine over, checking that all of the timing "pins" are there (including the gap) and that you haven't gained a gap. The timing sensor is the only item on the ECU that the ECU can't use stored values as it uses the gap to determine TDC! I have a lot of experience with this recently!! Cheers Peter
  9. Cab insecure; maybe for a vehicle - like a truck - that has a cab that tips forward for access to the engine? Cheers Peter
  10. Heat; weld a nut on top? Brute force? Cheers Peter
  11. Don't get too carried away with replacing bits! I have an EAS "Kicker" and more recently a Nanocom. My EAS going into this mode occasionally. When I use the kicker, it just resets the fault, when I've interrogated it with the Nanocom it tells me the pump has been running for too long. However, reset the fault and all is well. So I'd reset it and see what happens. It may just be a temporary glitch. Cheers Peter
  12. Where are you / where is the car? Cheers Peter
  13. Teh last time I bought some it was from local factors, it was more flexible than the hard plastic, it was push on, there's very little pressure there. Try these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-1-200tdi-300tdi-Leak-Off-Diesel-Fuel-Pipes-X3-/281842702034?hash=item419f2256d2:g:dhcAAOSwAYtWMpNV
  14. I've always called them "leak back" pipes. Not sure if that's correct though! Cheers Peter
  15. To put this into context - I had finally worked out the problem was with the "reluctor ring" as it had two gaps in it, this was confusing the GEMS! The answer was to bodge a repair (that worked briefly, but failed) then either pull the box and replace the flywheel or fit a new timing wheel behind the front crank pulley. After advice and recommendations I went to the Megasquirt site and after a call and exchange of e-mails with Nige, go mt bits from them Sorry it's been a while - my day job is leading the Independent Safety Assessment team looking at the Great Western electrification! Life's been a tad busy recently, including a track walk to look at what they've been installing. Anyway, back to the Rangie! Nigel (of Megasquirt fame) was most helpful and after a phone call and exchange of e-mails I bought what I needed. Step 1 was to remove the crank pulley as I had to machine the rear surface. To do that I needed to get the radiator, cowl and viscous fan out the way. Anybody who has a Land Rover should shake in fear at the words "viscous fan". I spent the whole of Saturday afternoon trying to unscrew it. I checked and double check on the internet. Defender 19J and 200Tdi have LH threads on the fan. Discovery 200Tdi and 300Tdi have LH threads on the fan. Range Rover 4.6 Thor engines have LH threads on the fan. You can see what's coming - however Range Rover 4.6 GEMS engines have RH threads on the fan (took a second Google search to find that!) I spent the whole of Saturday afternoon tightening it up!!!! Anyhow, it came off this afternoon and with a rattle gun on the crank bolt, it came off surprisingly easy (being nice to me I think). So the pulley had the rear machined and the toothed wheel loosely fitted, together with the sensor. I still had some of the original installation left, so I could (pretty accurately) identify the centre of the missing tooth. I then aligned the toothed wheel, marked it, removed it and fitted it in position - see pictures below: The Megasquirt 36-1 toothed wheel and again - needed to machine the rear surface of the crank pulley to give a flat area to mount it The sensor, loosley mounted In position as close as I can to the wheel to get the maximum signal and another view Finally - life Thanks for all the help and advice. We got there in the end! Cheers Peter