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About Puffernutter

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  • Birthday August 4

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  • Location
    Trowbridge, Wiltshire

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  • Interests
    Breeding and showing Clumber Spaniels and Italian Spinone. Restoring and showing Classic Cars - Rover P5B and TR7 on the road with a Stag and P4 under restoration
  1. 13.8 to 14.4v A multimeter across the battery terminals should be sufficient. Most engines should charge at idle. Increase the revs to see if anything changes. Looks like a diode gone in the diode pack. Cheers Peter
  2. Diode possibly? Cheers Peter
  3. The charge light actually creates a small amount of current that starts the alternator charging, which then self excites and when that point is reached, the charging light goes out, so you know it is working! Simples! It's normally a spade connector. Cheers Peter
  4. You need the thin wire to excite the alternator, it may not even kick in, even at high revs. Cheers Peter
  5. Can of worms! If a tacho for a petrol engine that takes a feed from the ignition, then generally all you set up is the number of cylinders. If you're taking pulses from an alternator it depends on how many pulses/revolution from the alternator and the pulley sizes from the crank pulley to the alternator pulley! I'd buy a tacho for a petrol engine that is driven off the coil if you could - by far and away the easiest solution! Cheers Peter
  6. With a diesel its usually the alternator (which isn't a function on earlier Landies). With a petrol it depends on the tacho. Some tachos use a wire from the coil looped around the tacho (forms a single turn), others are a direct connection. What instructions came with it? Cheers Peter
  7. I had a 1990 110 (initially 19J then 200Tdi) that I converted to a veggie. It took a while to tweak the system, but this is what I ended up with. Twin tanks. A small tank of diesel was installed behind the centre middle seat. I also installed a heater unit on the oil line (fed from the cooling water system) a changeover valve, did the feed AND return (stops you feeding oil back to the diesel!) and a temperature switch (70degC) on the heater. The engine was always started on diesel. When the engine was sufficiently warm, the temperature switches automatically swapped from diesel to veggie (I had an indicator on the dash that showed the state of the valve (red - diesel, green - veggie!) about 1 mile before I was about to get to my destination, I would flip a switch that out the engine back onto diesel to purge the veggie. That would leave it in a state ready to start again the next time. I also had a hidden switch that would allow me to force a switch either way. The only thing I would do differently is to have a slightly larger tank of diesel and either a fuel gauge on that tank or a warning when it was getting low. If you want more details, send me a message. Cheers Peter
  8. I assume this is an auto? Remove the inspection panel from the bell housing and have a close look at the sensor used to detect engine position. Look for the sensor itself being bent. Alternatively, turn the engine over and have a look at the pins too look for any bent or missing ones. There should be 35 pins with one missing and that gap tells the engine where TDC is. On my GEMS, one of the pins was damaged (actually missing) and what happened was that the engine correctly identified TDC, then about 40 odd degrees later, re-identified it! I ended up putting a new 36-1 toothed wheel and sensor behind the front crank pulley - a kit of parts is available from one of the mods on here. Cheers Peter
  9. Pictures of winch as requested.






    1. Puffernutter


      Thank you.  Stupid question!!  Would an electric winch fit in its place?

      Alternatively, any idea of the cost (or supplier) of the PTO bits and pieces?




    2. Roosterrs


      Honest answer is I don't know. Could try the LR winches website for PTO bits.

    3. Puffernutter


      I'll take it anyway. Happy to wait until December fro me to collect, would you like paying now?

      I still need to look at the 90 for a towbar - I'll do that later and let you know.



  10. Sold both mine....... Wallet a lot heavier now :-)
  11. Generally experience has shown that if you replace one part (master or slave) the un-replaced part will then quickly fail! It could be the master having failed with a new slave, there is potentially more pressure which puts extra stress on the seals that quickly expire (and vice-versa). Just my 2d and experience! Cheers Peter
  12. My experience with "death wobble" on a 110 is that it never just one thing! There are usually a number of culprits causing the problem and an equal number of mitigations that prevent/reduce it! Loose swivels are a favourite cause, panhard bushes and steering dampers (in my experience) are the prime mitigations. Once you lose the benefit of new bushes or the damper is less efficient, the death wobble will return! In the end I fitted a sprung damper and that solved it! Good luck with the steering box! I used to remove a few bolts from the top (to give me access) and I had a Snap On track rod end bush splitter and a bl00dy great lump hammer. It would come eventually! Cheers Peter
  13. Cutting out may be a number of things, although I would be doubtful if it were the crank sensor. My problem was that the flex plate shattered and I hadn't realised that it had created a new gap in the timing pins! It wouldn't start or if it did, only briefly and ran like a bag of nails with back firing etc. In the end, rather than pull the box again and change the flywheel complete I fitted a new slotted disc at the front, behind the crank pulley and used a Ford sensor (supplied by a moderator of this forum). That started an ran sweetly. However to stop totally could be ignition related, or maybe even mobiliser related. If it does it again see what (if anything) comes up on the speedo display. Cheers Peter
  14. It may be a bent pin. Do you have access to a Nanocom? It wont help with the crank sensor, but may with other issues? Cheers Peter
  15. The crank sensor (if it is the same as my 4.6 GEMS) will quite happily work in a puddle of oil as it is magnetic! I'd pop the inspection cover off and turn the engine over, checking that all of the timing "pins" are there (including the gap) and that you haven't gained a gap. The timing sensor is the only item on the ECU that the ECU can't use stored values as it uses the gap to determine TDC! I have a lot of experience with this recently!! Cheers Peter