Puffernutter

That's a different set up to mine. The one I have is as per the picture above yours and the Defender manual. No retaining clips on the shoes, two springs and an expander and adjuster opposite each other. Thanks anyway. Peter

Thank you - my manual shows the expander being held in by 2 bolts - I am certain the expander is correct, I know there is a ramp on the end and I took great care in re-assembly! But that picture of the plates in invaluable! Peter

Movement - I'll let you know when it arrives. I only ordered it last night! On the one I have, I didn't see much movement at all to be honest and I double checked I had the pistons and the rollers in the correct way round! Peter

Hello, it's not that early. It has the square end and no threaded cone that I could see! The expander, I realised when the parts fell out it wasn't simple in the car, so I took off the backplate and cleaned everything and re-assembled it correctly - at least the two parts seems to move slightly when the central rod was operated. A question for the collective, in case there is too much wear in my expander I have bought another, with the three sliding clips - what order do they go in? There seems to be two sliding clips (I assume one from the top and one from the bottom) bit where does the "space go? In between them, at the bottom, on the top? I've looked and cannot find any information! Peter

Yes and yes. I love the phrase "whip the drum off" which = chock the front, jack up the rear and put in axle stands, remove 4 nuts and 4 nuts and bolts then two cross head screws. All whilst lying underneath 🙂 However, I take the point about the wear on the operating mechanism! I do wonder if it is wear on the piece that fits in the expander that is some of the problem. Peter

I've just put the car away, but by the fact that I am at the extreme of the thread at the brake end and I have to go to almost the extreme travel of the handbrake before even a slight resistance is felt - too much! It's almost as if it is too long at the brake end from the end of the thread. I am not sure if there are different handbrake cables? The other question - the adjuster opposite the expander - moved until I could hear it rubbing then backed off. The shoes are also in the correct way round!

I know that this is covered by many threads, but nothing seems to work! LR90 Defender 1989 - The back story - at the last MoT the landy only just passed on handbrake with the comment it will need looking at sooner rather than later! So, on that basis, I ordered new shoes. Today I had a look at the handbrake. On removing the drum, it was clear why there were problems - very greasy shoes! Everything was removed (a few bits from the expander fell out), I cleaned the drum and backplate, re-assembled and it was worse then ever. Removed it all again having read there is a specific way to reassemble the expander! Took the back plate off and on my bench, removed all the parts to the expander, cleaned, greased and reassembled, holding it all together with an elastic band! Re-assembled it all back on the car and the handbrake lever is at the maximum extent and it barely holds. So we have: New shoes Expander assembled correctly Handbrake cable on the very last threads at the drum end And still I cannot get the handbrake anywhere close - a gust of wind will move it ! It's almost as it the cable is too long, it is a newish cable and hasn't had much use and it was OK at one time (so I doubt if it has stretched) So, what is so obvious I'm missing it? Thanks in advance Peter

All, I thought you mught like an update. Fitted a refurbished 200Tdi injector pump yesterday (and after having got the banjo fittings the right way round - yes I knew they were different, yes I took care, but still got it wrong!) It ticks over without stalling and goes like the proverbial off a shovel! Now it is a more reliable runner, time to get in with "pimping my ride" 😄 Cheers Peter

Evening all! This is a 1989 Defender 90 with a 200Tdi (Defender engine). It has been off the road for the last 6 years but passed the MoT at the first attempt last November. Today I changed the oil, oil filter and fuel filter. I have (several) ongoing issues. I am sure they have been covered by others in the past, but if someone can point me to them and also what order I should look at things! The problems I have are (in no order of priority) 1. Fast idle (but if it isn't fast idling, it stalls!) It starts very easily and sometimes it returns to a fast idle, other times it dies straight away again! 2. Throttling of revs, in 5th I get to an indicated 45(ish) and it does feel as if it is being throttled (I had a 110 200Tdi a few years ago for 10 years - so I know what they can do!) It starts without any problem. The tank is 3/4 full. I have adjusted the stops on top of the injection pump for maximum throttle and idle. I have checked the throttle cable and the movement is smooth and even if I try and push it closed as far as I can, it won;t stall the engine! Could the issue be 6 years of only occasional starting means I have waxed up parts of the pump (e.g. governor). Has it been tweaked (isn't there an internal adjustment. So, where would people start first. The random engine stall or the throttling of the maximum revs, or are they linked? Cheers Peter

Couldn't work out the idle speed, my contactless tacho using a reflective strip broke and nowhere safe to put an old smiths contact type. I think there must be a degree of stiction, I adjusted it until it sounded about right, but when I revved it, it died! So had it ticking over slightly faster than I would have expected, but usable! The main thins is it passed the MoT today! My son checked, the last one was 8 years ago! Before I start messing with the injector setting I'll just drive it a bit and see if things free up :-) Cheers Peter

You're absolutely right. I'll try and get across there with a tacho and see what rpm it is doing. It just "sounds" fast, but I've not had a landy for about 5 years, and I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast...... Cheers Peter

I appreciate that this has been done to death! But I can find nothing to help me! 1989 90 with a Defender 200Tdi (used to have a 19J). This has been "resting" for about 3 years and I'm now getting ready for an MoT. In my view (and I don't have a rev counter) the engine is idling too fast. The throttle cable is adjusted so it is loose. The throttle idle screw on the injector pump had a broken slot (so couldn't be adjusted from the rear), but I've got locknuts on the front part now, so it can be adjusted and that is backed right off with daylight between the lever and the adjusting screw. In that position, at idle, I can adjust the throttle cable until it just starts to affect the idle speed, then back it off. So I am sure that neither the throttle cable, nor the throttle idle screw are affecting the idle speed. What do I look at next? Any ideas? Or could it just be internal stiction, the engine has been started, but the car not moved more than a few yards for several years, could a good run loosen anything up that is holding the idle speed high? Do I find that (hopefully) after passing the MoT and using it, one day, at a set of lights it will just stop because the idle speed is too low :-) Cheers Peter

An excellent suggestion, I am a "regular" there - so that shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to try and get an appointment when it is quiet so I can judge their effectiveness first without needing them in anger 🙂

A question for those much more experienced in LRs than me - and that's most pf you! 1989 Defender 90, was 19J, retrofitted with Defender 200Tdi, last MoT'd (and passed) about 5 years ago, very strong advisory on the steering box. This was my sons, that has now become mine. I replaced the steering box this afternoon. It needs a thorough going over before I think about getting it MoT'd again as we did have a minor problem with dragging rear shoes and I notice the handbrake warning light does not go out (I expect just a sticky switch!) Before I MoT it again, or take it anywhere for an MoT I plan to change the oil and the fuel filter. My biggest issue is that since it was last MoT'd, when it is started, it revs faster at idle than I would expect (it wasn't touched after the last MoT and put in the garage) and there is a lot of blue smoke that doesn't seem to diminish even after a period of running. I have no way of driving this on the road except when it has an MoT appointment and I have very limited space to move it where it is stored (although I can work on it). So how can I judge the effectiveness of the brakes and more importantly, if I get it good and warm, will this blue smoke become less of a problem? That is, driving to the MoT station (abut 4 miles) or am I just setting myself up to fail? All advice and thoughts welcome. Cheers Peter

I could be wrong, but I suspect that mileage is stored in the BeCM anyway? That is where the pulses will be coming into and then the readings just transmitted to the speedo head? Happy to be corrected! Cheers Peter

I had the 4.6 with a GEMS and changed to a front mounted toothed wheel behind the crankshaft pulley. I timed it by using the gap on the timing ring on the flywheel. Ran as sweet as a nut! Cheers Peter

My father-in-law (retired mechanic) always used to say with the older cars that they tended to list to one side (drivers side) as that is where the weight normally was and it was normal. Just replace the spring as it is tired? Cheers Peter

Is that the problem? The solenoid should reach the end of travel (fully engaged) before the power is applied, so it sounds as if there is something wrong with the electrics in the starter motor.

As I assume this is a pre-engaged, the starter motor should not spin until the solenoid has reached the end of travel and engaged (as that is where the contact that put power to the starter motor). Is it completing travel too early? Peter

Pre-engaged, by "punch out" you mean release from the starter ring when power to the starter motor is turned off?

Large hammer and plenty of BF&I. I've broken pullers trying to get the arm off! Cheers Peter

Which engine?

Mine was a 1990 110 Defender and I fitted an eberspacher under the drivers seat box with vents to the foot wells. Probably find some pictures if it helps? Peter

My 110 was with NFU and they had no problems with seats, winches, roof racks etc. Cheers Peter

A friend had the TDV6 with a diesel pump that went recently. Granted he's no home mechanic, but it is an engine out job as it right at the rear (so he was told). He scrapped the car due to the cost of the repair. No experience driving them, I never graduated beyond a 300Tdi and I now have a 1989 Defender!